What else should you replace when changing the timing belt?

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Originally Posted by rhys.l

Thanks for the tips. Sounds pretty wild, might just cough up and pay someone else to have fun with it. I'll get the valve clearances checked as well

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Doing mine right now.

Stay tuned for DIY.

I have a crank pulley tool rhys :)

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Originally Posted by cbauto

Doing mine right now.

Stay tuned for DIY.

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Goodluck!

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

The biggest problem you WILL have is breaking open the crankshaft pulley bolt

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for me, this is the easiest process.

takes 2 seconds.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2016.56.53.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2016.58.41.jpg

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Originally Posted by Adrian @ SAS

B16A belt = 124 teeth
B18C belt = 126 teeth
Early gates racing belts were 125, but that issue has been resolved now.
My guess is you mate got the wrong belt...

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I counted the number of teeth on my gates belt. 126 like you say for b18c

part number for gates b18c timing belt is:-

T247RB

for anyone searching up belts.

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

I plane to tackle my timing belt myself in the future... /wrist

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Should be no problem if you're handy with tools.

only thing you should triple check is everything lines up when putting the belt back on.
that's it really.

to break it down for you....

- line up TDC
- undo all drive belts. Alternator, A/C, P/S, engine mount
- take off cam cover, belt covers.
- undo crank bolt, tensioner.
- change tensioner, water pump, seals as you so wish.
- put the belt back on and make sure everything lines up. tension the belt

and then put everything back on.

I know it takes pro's half a day to complete but I'm a DIY'er, taking my time and cleaning as i go.

Halfway done. everything out.

I'm not changing main seal or cam seals. looks spotless. water pump was pretty good too but changing anyway.

tomorrow will re-assemble everything.



This is all step 2 above out of the way.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2016.52.19.jpg



Much to my surprise, the internals were filthy.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2017.24.28.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2017.25.54.jpg

12yo belt

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2017.25.04.jpg

Nice work. Doesn't sound that involved. If you were to change the cam seals and main seal, are they easy to do? Can you just sort of pry them off and then carefully knock the replacements back in?

What's with the gunk around the base of the block? My car had something similar, thought it might have been a bit of weeping from the main seal. Or out the sump gasket I suppose.

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Originally Posted by rhys.l

Nice work. Doesn't sound that involved. If you were to change the cam seals and main seal, are they easy to do? Can you just sort of pry them off and then carefully knock the replacements back in?

What's with the gunk around the base of the block? My car had something similar, thought it might have been a bit of weeping from the main seal. Or out the sump gasket I suppose.

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Gunk is caused by a loose dipstick tube.
See this thread for correct fix -
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ick-Tube/page2

The only way to work out for sure where the seeping is coming from is to degrease and inspect where it's coming from.

Yeah. Seals are not hard. Just pry out, clean and press back in carefully.

what u mean filthy, looks clean as fuk

or u avvin a giggle

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Originally Posted by cbauto

Gunk is caused by a loose dipstick tube.
See this thread for correct fix -
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ick-Tube/page2

The only way to work out for sure where the seeping is coming from is to degrease and inspect where it's coming from.

Yeah. Seals are not hard. Just pry out, clean and press back in carefully.

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Awesome, thanks for the info. I'd say that's what my problem is too, dipstick wobbles around a bit when the car is hot

Nahh man that head looks minty as
No oil staining whatsoever
The only problem i'm facing is breaking open the crackshaft bolt with hand tools... 3/4' tools look hard/expensive to get
i don't own any air tools
And i know you need one that has at least 500nm of torque
As the thread is counter clockwise and the car rotates counter clockwise - its like an oxymoron LOL

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Originally Posted by u mad?

what u mean filthy, looks clean as fuk

or u avvin a giggle

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U mud?

this is what i mean by taking my time.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2015.37.19.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2015.38.25.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2015.39.23.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2016.30.12.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2016.31.36.jpg

dis guy dose some good work.
hes worthy of your rep, make it rain!