I would seriously check out the brand new Corolla sedan,its very practical as has a massive boot and fantastic rear seat legroom,both areas win over my Euro.
Printable View
I would seriously check out the brand new Corolla sedan,its very practical as has a massive boot and fantastic rear seat legroom,both areas win over my Euro.
The 'rolla is a safe and practical buy, and the new sedan is as big as an early gen Camry. My issues with it are bland styling, cheap looking interior and CVT auto. My beef with the CVT is that I yet to see one from any manufacturer that lasts as long as a torque converter auto... The planetary box in Toyota hybrids does not count, it's not a CVT, and it's bullet proof. On the strength on this id give this example of automotive Valium a wide berth.
Just picked up one of these (from a DC5 :( ).
Here's my quick review:
- Magic seats are awesome - call it a gimmicky name, but they give you so much more room - I can wheel a small bike in the back, a bigger one with the front wheel off.
- Power is a bit lacking but not too bad compared to other 1.8 etc. Mazda 3 extra torque is noticeable over the civic.
- Gears are really wide (compared to DC5 again lol) but even wider than corolla or mazda 3 imo.
- Build quality is spot on.
- Eco mode needs to be disabled, it make it run like a 1.3l echo.
- Rear visibility takes a bit of getting used to. The B pillar is impossible to get a clean head check - it's huge!
- Back seats seat 2 comfortably, forget about the middle seat as it's raised.
- Rear configuration is excellent with all sorts of anchor points, folding configurations etc.
- Handling is good, less harsh and firm than mazda 3, miles ahead of the corolla which is soft and fluffy.
- (Auto) shifting is superior to all other cars in this class. The 'grade logic' finds the right gears much better than corolla or mazda 3 and the paddle shifters mean you can downshift faster than waiting for the auto.
- Real world fuel consumption is more like 8l/100km combined, and keep in mind it uses 95 so the rolla and mazda 3 win out here. I'm pretty sure it can run 91 but will have to do some more research to be sure - it might just be a uk thing?
I've got one of these as well.
Its probably one of the best featured manual transmission cars for its price ($23,000 back then)
Has all the necessary features that I needed and wanted.
- Bluetooth
- Cruise control
- Alloy rims
- Reverse camera
- Magic seats (these were extremely useful when buying IKEA furniture, carrying around a road bike etc)
And the fact that the next Type R is going to be based on this model means that I definitely made the right purchase in terms of body type.
It will run on 91 E10 crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.I.SIvic
I ran my civic on it for a while had minor issues which have gone since using 95.
My main issue was when you push the clutch in the RPM would drop down to 500rpm for a short time then pick up to the normal 775rpm
This made the engine shudder like it was about to stall.
Other issues were when you planted your foot down you will get a medium acceleration then a sudden surge of full(but this could have been the i-vtec)
Nope, the manual and the Honda website say minimum 95.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.I.SIvic
Oh and we pick 2014 Mazda 3 SP25 at the end :)
Only the sedans are rated to use e10. Hatches need 95
The fuel door on my car says "E10 Suitable"Quote:
Originally Posted by *DAN*
The manuals are the same as the ones the UK chaps get.
The ECU maps may be changed a little for the AU market.
That is the same as when we bought our CU2 back in 2008. After people reporting the pinging problem, they will ask you to bring the car to fix it. The solution? Remove the "E10 suitable" sticker and advise you that CU2 is 95 onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Grayfox
lol.
I guess they had to remove it due to the ACL laws too.
If a salesman said it can run fine on E10 but cant, they then have to refund you if you requested.
And we all know that they dont want that.
LOL niceQuote:
Originally Posted by denot
that's classic
So can you retune it to run 91? It's pretty much identical right? I don't get why it needs 95. Bloody 2014 mazda 3 runs a compression ratio of 13 and runs 91. This thing does 10.5 and needs 95. That's my only gripe so far. I don't mind 95 for my old teg, but this thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by *DAN*