The Mechanic of yarra honda in vic suggested me to buy full synthetic Mobil 1 when i did 10.000 service. It was for 2.4L
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The Mechanic of yarra honda in vic suggested me to buy full synthetic Mobil 1 when i did 10.000 service. It was for 2.4L
I service every 6 months. I do 7000km in that duration.Quote:
Originally Posted by ngupil
Are you going to listen to him? If you are, you will have to get the 10w-30 Mobil1, which comes in the gold coloured bottles. It's twice the price of Castrol Edge 5w-30. Of course, you're comparing PAO with hydrocracked. Mobil1 will last longer, but Edge 5w-30 will protect better on cold starts.Quote:
Originally Posted by aDe
Well, I've always used the 5w-50 Mobil 1 on my cars, I've used on my euro before and now in the widebody accord, Never causing me any trouble.
How many kms does your Euro have now? What's the colour of your exhaust tip?Quote:
Originally Posted by aDe
I've sold the euro and was about 50.000kms. The exhaust tip was fine like new, coz i change the stock tips when it was around 5k with remus tips and still shiny when i sold the car
Just stick to Honda FEO because it's not worth the hassle and BS they give you everytime you say "I brought my engine oil".
Honda Australia is ridiculous in implying that their cars are so "Special" that if you use any other brand of engine oil, you are running the risk of damaging the engine.
Every time I took my Euro in for service, the guy at the service department would tell me "We strongly recommend against using synthetic oils blah blah... We have seen numerous instances where the owner used synthetic oil against our advice and had problem with crank shaft blah blah blah"
Mind you, if that really was true, Honda really do make POS cars, don't they?
The problem I had with FEO was that the oil consumption was horrible. By the time I'm due for 10,000km service, the oil would be nearly at minimum level on the dipstick. When I changed over to Shell Helix Ultra, I had no such issue.
I use the FEO oil and have had no consumption or other problems... in the end its all i would ever use... putting in synthetic oil and feeling a horsepower gain is a purley placebo effect - your brain trying to justfiy the extra $25-$40 u have just blown... :)
I used to own an excel which had to run synthetic to keep the tappets quiet - they have little oil holes at the top and get blocked easily by mineral oils... nearly every excel u listen too will have a tell-tail tap tap tap and the oil is the most likly cause for this :)
my mechanic recommended to change the oil every 5000km and just fill her up again
he said u dont need to bother with the filter til the 10000km mark but u could if u wanted to
what can the colour of the exhaust tip tell us?
The best Question to ask the Service Advisor would be "Could you put that in writing for me please, so I can write a letter and tell all the other Oil Companies that their product is not suitable for Honda Engines?"Quote:
Originally Posted by coladuna
Ask them "Since when did HONDA start manufacturing there own Lubricant Products?
Ask them "What is the actual brand of Genuine Honda Oil?".
90% of the Service Advisors haven't got a clue about Cars, or how they actually work.
I've been on the tools for 26 1/2 years as a Mechanic and I've worked 16 of those years in Dealerships and some of the crap that comes out of the Service Advisor's mouths is embarrassing.
I've got over 215,000 Km on my 92 CB7 F22A9. I've used it as a Test Mule for different Brand Mineral, Semi Synthetic and Full Synthetic Oils over time but I only use PENNZOIL 5W50 100% Full Synthetic now.
I don't even bother checking the oil level between Servicing because I know it will remain on the full mark at all times, as it always has, and I give it an absolute caning at times too. These old F22A are almost bulletproof when they're looked after.
I Flush my oil with Wynns Engine Flush and change the Filter every 5,000Km
The 2.4L EURO Engine would be a far more superior engine than the old F22A, with a lot tighter tolerances too, so I find it very hard to believe that Burning Oil in one of these engines would be seen as acceptable.
Any manufacturer than states it is acceptable for a New Engine to Burn up oil between Services are just copping out. They just don't want to have to Rebuild the Engine under Warranty, plus it wouldn't look too good for their product.
Some Manufacturers use a "RUN IN" Oil when New and Change it to the Recommended Oil at the 1000km 1st Service. Not sure if Honda does though.
Finally, If they say that other oil brands will damage the engine then you would have the backing of the Oil Companies on you side if they threaten to void the warranty.
Changing your Oil every 5,000 km is good practice, but I would always recommend that you change the Oil Filter as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by fraqqie
A Genuine Honda EURO Oil Filter (P/No: 15400-PLC-004) only cost about $18.50 retail. Very Cheap Insurance I say.
As far as the colour of the exhaust tip goes, it can tell you if the Engine is Running Rich, Lean or Burning Oil.
A Black Sooty Tip is an indication it is Over-Rich
A Lighter Grey Colour is an indication of Over-Lean
A Whitish Grey colour is an indication of Oil Usage.
When you start the car have a look for Blue/White Smoke at start up, don't confuse it for condensation/steam. If the engine blows a large puff of Blue/White smoke it could be an indication that the Valve Stem Seal have been compromised. White/Blue Smoke while the engine is running is an indiciation of Worn or sticking Oil Rings or Dislodged Valve Stem Seals.
Some engines have a tendency to have faulty valve stem seals. They use an UMBRELLA type seal that can dislodge from the seat and as the valve moves up & down it acts like an efficient little oil Pump. This would more than likely be the reason the EURO Engines would be using oil, not because of worn or sticking rings. If the Valve Stem seal is worn, split or dislodged the Oil gravity feeds down the Valve Guide onto the back of the valve and into the Bore where it sits until the engine is started. The residual oil is burnt in the combustion chamber at start up, that's what the Blue/White Smoke is.
Sometimes it's as easy as replacing the Valve stem seal's only, Which can be done on the car without major head work.
An easy way to find out what is causing Oil Usage is to do a Wet & Dry Compression Test.
LOL, Honda oil in Australia is made by Castrol! I think Honda oils in other regions are made by different companies because the bottles are different and they also have different grades, like a 10w-30 semi-synthetic which we don't get.
Anyway, Honda Australia has already given a statement to another member on this forum that is is alright to use oils of other brands as long as it is the right viscosity and that the quality of the oil is better. Quality-wise, it is easy to exceed Honda FEO because it is a mineral oil.
Just a little off topic stuff, but I'd like to remind everyone to let your engine warm up a bit for 30-60 seconds before taking off, and also to keep it to light throttle until the needle reaches near the middle mark. Also, service your car on schedule and use the proper 10w-30 oil for the Euro (0w, 5w and 40 oil is fine too).
In my carpark, I was taking stuff out of my boot. Parked 2 cars away was a silver Euro. Saw the lady owner get in and start the car. First thing that came to mind was that the engine sound was weird. It was like the sound of an old camry! She then proceeded to drive out, and damn, it sounded louder than the usual auto trans Euro (which is virtually silent except for the transmission noise). She drove past and I could see quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I thought it was just steam as it is winter and all. But then I noticed the smell. It smelled sweet. It was not a typical exhaust smoke smell. It was not the smell of the cat convertor working. It was a very very odd and sweetly sickening smell.....
That engine was stuffed.