Optima Batteries

Printable View

Show 80 post(s) from this thread on one page

29-11-2005, 11:16 PM
SPL77Civic

Quote:

i didnt say yellow tops charge when the car is off qball said it, read the sentence right and get ur facts straight before posting,

wasnt aimed at you buddy, just correcting that statement. :)

Because if you read the responses I provided, nothing that I posted was aimed at cutting anyone down, I was simply correcting false statements that seem to pop up on every forum not just this one.

Quote:

No normal car battery(deep cycle or not) and with or without a cap will provide an amp with a true 14v even with the car running

Forgot to add that bit, caps dont up your voltage, read this thread to understand why so many people dont have time for capacitors.

its great that it worked for you, but alot of the time capacitors are nothing more than a bandaid solution.

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/for...howtopic=42742
29-11-2005, 11:22 PM
m0nk3y

ive got an optima D51 in my car as well providing all the juice for my audio system etc

$270ish is well worth it, considering it will outlast other brand batteries out there like century etc, and it would fit and work fine in future cars as well.
29-11-2005, 11:28 PM
SPL77Civic

should probably add that I also use a Optima d34 in my barina, which up until Brisbane Autosalon was running a pair of amps that make 6000rms (before accounting for voltage drop, impedance rise and heat causing power loss) and hitting high 146s with just one of them hooked up on a pair of 10" subs(high 148s with the pair prior to a strapping issue)

and I dont suffer from any dimming lights or other issues that people seem to have with much less powerful set ups.
29-11-2005, 11:40 PM
mj3610

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPL77Civic

wasnt aimed at you buddy, just correcting that statement. :)

Because if you read the responses I provided, nothing that I posted was aimed at cutting anyone down, I was simply correcting false statements that seem to pop up on every forum not just this one.

they're not false statements theyre different opinions...
29-11-2005, 11:41 PM
monoxide

Capacitors were desgined for a reason, they're not just a cylinder you put in your boot, I beleive for a system to be complete you will need a decent battery and a capacitor if your amplifiers are to have access to voltage they require. IMO
29-11-2005, 11:57 PM
SPL77Civic

Quote:

Originally Posted by monoxide

Capacitors were desgined for a reason, they're not just a cylinder you put in your boot, I beleive for a system to be complete you will need a decent battery and a capacitor if your amplifiers are to have access to voltage they require. IMO

and dont forget adequate cabling for power and earths, no point having all that juice and too small/not enough cable.

Quote:

they're not false statements theyre different opinions...

I'll reword it, misinformed opinions.

Yes, opinions are fair enough, but when they are opinions that contain incorrect info thats a different matter.

Examples, in your opinion people NEED a cap, this is not true in all cases.

People stating that batteries charge with the car off, that was a statement and it was incorrect.

Quote:

dont upgrade ur battery for better power just get a capacitor (nothing fancy) and ur system will benifit alot more.

If this is your opinion, say so and word it to reflect an opinion, as it reads it is a statement and again not true, as what will work in one car wont neccessarily work in another.
30-11-2005, 08:50 AM
mj3610

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPL77Civic

what will work in one car wont neccessarily work in another.

there u go, case closed, ur statement goes for u too...
30-11-2005, 11:18 PM
Calvo

whats the best battery out there for audio systems? any others besides optima?
im runnin a new setup which ive been told will drain alot of power, and even worse is that its on permanent power as ive "lost" accessories power...
so far havent had probs, but i dont wanna have probs...
01-12-2005, 12:43 PM
vividjazz

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calvo

whats the best battery out there for audio systems? any others besides optima?
im runnin a new setup which ive been told will drain alot of power, and even worse is that its on permanent power as ive "lost" accessories power...
so far havent had probs, but i dont wanna have probs...

Stinger and Odyssey are Optima competitors.
01-12-2005, 04:36 PM
poid

get the Optima Calvo, they are excellent batteries...Odysseys sometimes fail for no apparent reason.

Caps are not needed in ANY system IMO...any decent amp uses internal capacitors for its needs. If your lights are dimming, you can use a cap as a bandaid solution instead of upgrading battery/cables/alternator.
01-12-2005, 06:21 PM
vtek

Ive got a optima and eventhough it cost abit more its well worth it. there are so many benfits of a dry cell over normal lead acid batterys.
One is that they do not emit fumes, so this would benifit people with pods etc in the engine bay as its not sucked back inot the engine.
they last alot longer (about 3 times) as a lead acid.
More CCA(cold cranking amps)
thats to just list a few.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mj3610

$270 for a battery isnt a wise choice IMO
i recently got the century ULTRA for $90 from autobarn and they last long but my lights were still dimming abit, i bought a decent capacitor for $80 and now everythings good my sub doesnt clip any more i've put the gains up heeps more without any distortion or dimming of any kind :)
dont upgrade ur battery for better power just get a capacitor (nothing fancy) and ur system will benifit alot more.
02-12-2005, 07:39 AM
Fhrx

mj3610, can I ask where you're getting your information about batteries and caps from dude?

Like aftermarket FD batteries, power caps are a remedy for a larger power storage problem. Many aftermarket batteries (Optima, Stinger, Odyssey , Lightning Audio etc) and audio capacitors are all fast discharging energy reservoirs that store the necessary power your amplifier will need to punch those big bass notes while limiting clipping. They store power during intervals when it is not required (which is most of the time) and release it when a short term transient demand exceeds what is available from the car's power system. An aftermarket battery or stiffening capacitor for your amp is the simplest way to be sure your system always gets every bit of immediate current it needs. From the smallest 0.5 farad cap (or Optima D51) to monsters like the 35 farad Stinger cap (or Optima D31), you're guaranteed to find a battery or capacitor suitable for your installation. Not all systems NEED a cap or aftermarket battery but they are nice.

By the way, for those who have been asking, here is the D51 we do in the Civic:

http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.co...nterest_64.jpg

Show 80 post(s) from this thread on one page