well my timing is off (as far as i remember) by about 6-10 degrees
will that affect startup?
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well my timing is off (as far as i remember) by about 6-10 degrees
will that affect startup?
well before youplay with timming, confirm you have spark, otherwise forget about it
use WEQ's method,
if you do have spark, take out all your dizzy bolts, then while a freind is cranking yor engine you can try turning the dizzy, even beyond the normal limmits of its guide, as this will test for incorect type of dizzy. turn it both directions.
reson for this is if you have a dizzy from another type of engine the slot in the cam shaft that drives the dizzy may not line up with 0deg TDC for cyl #1 in the dizzy.
I have had this in the past, you would chase yoru tail all day and never know.
aslo your dizzy could be 180 out. eg fireing on # 4 intead of #1. so you leads could be set right but your still out of wack.
to test for this.
rotate the engine to TDC cyl #1 compression stroke, then make sure the rotor button is pointing to the lead for cyl#1, as you turn the crank counter clockwise, it should point to cyl 3, then cyl 4 finishing with cyl 2.
thanks for the help.
I have spark (tested it yesterday)
the dizzy is for d15b so should i still try your recomended pointers?
I will also try the last thing u mentioned.
Thanks again.
Also - not sure if this helps or means anything but at a certain point ( i think my leads were out of order ) the engine was not only cranking but it also made that noise where its just about to 'kick' over...like the engine jumped a bit..
But after fixing a few things here and there all it does it crank.
any reason for this?
its probably flooded by now too - take out the spark plugs/leads , disconnect the fuel pump/dizzy and turn it over a few times to spray out that fuel too.(mist will spray out of one or tow of the spark holes) (thanks to tinkerbell for that tip)
Then make sure everything is perfect and hook up again and try again...
thanks for the tip - i will definately try that
would give rep but cant give it twice
;)
ECU-MAN: Just a tip for dizzy's out 180 degrees, I removed the circlip from the slotted bit that goes into the camshaft, removed the pin, rotated the slotted 'gear' 180 degrees and reassembled.
I am beginning to suspect that the timing belt is out by 1 tooth, which is also stuffing up the dizzy timing, see though the camshaft will be advanced/retarded one tooth and has moved the camshaft/dizzy in relation to the crankshaft.
Check that when the crankshaft pulley is lined up with its notch on the timing belt cover, that the camshaft gear(take top timing belt cover off) is in the right position still.
Here are some pics. You will notice that the crank position sensor isn't on the block but I circled where it goes.
http://www.strathlan.com/TEK/images/sensormount.jpg
Here you can see the cable just a little. The cable is about 30cm long with a grey plug. This should put it near the alt. If you have to pull the sensor out you will have to pull off the crank pulley.
http://www.strathlan.com/TEK/images/sensorcable.jpg
Hope this will help...
hmm nothing sprayed at allQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
i only disconnected one of the dizzy plugs
will that matter?
i d/c the fuel pump also and the spark plugs were removed
All the plugs have to be connected for it to work! They all serve a purpose. There might be a empty plug used for diagnostic tools but you would not have taken anything out when you removed the old motor.
not sure what u mean by that?
the only reason i removed the plugs was because it might have been flooded...
what are u trying to say?
another odd thing - after removing and reinstalling the plugs/leads, I cranked the engine and it 'kicked' again, as if it was about to start.
that happened the first 3 times i tried to start it
then after that all it does is crank, doesn't 'kick' at all
why is it doing that?
EDIT:
my timing is off by half a tooth, if that. definately not one tooth.
The Crankangle sensor is located in the Distributor on all OBD1 cars.
If all else fails, wire up the CEL and find out what fault codes you have. Easy to diagnose from there. Use any 12V automotive bulb to get the flashes. Earth ECU Pin D7 to extract the codes.