Actually If it was too tight it would have seized. Being too big would explain the white smoke in the oil's dipstick tube with the cracked sleeve and bad gasket, if there was a bad gasket, don't want to read it all again! Also would have had a lot of blow by until the pistons warmed up. Then it wouldn't be too bad but still a little too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
Well this is the question. THe water was being boiled, and the whole cooling system was brand new - everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
We think the pistons were being overheated, to the point where they were rubbing. THe overheating was caused by the oil that was comming through the guides and causeing hotspots on the pistons. Thats my understanding from talking with the piston company on how something like this can happen. The valves basically finished off the problem. Like i said, im pretty sure the metal was almost liquid because it did no damage to vales/turbines etc - that of im the luckiest man around.
The reason everything was built by different shops, was just a matter of conincidence. At the time of the pistons being installed, the mechanic had EVERYTHING he needed. He had the head and he had the bottom end. I gave everything to him at once and said 'make it work' basically.
Lastly, Pro ECU, the damage you see was what was left AFTER at 3hr high-way trip. During the time, there was NOOOO boost at all. I pulled the plugs before and after i left, and after i got home there was a very different picture. Lastly, it defaintly didnt overboost either way. I guess u'll have to trust me on this one.
Sorry this is ALLL wrong. I had NO blow by. I blew ringlands on my stock engine and i know exctly what blowby is like. I had no smoke comming from the engine - you are confusing my stock engine with the rebuilt one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
Secondly, the sleeve was NOT cracked. Please beleive me, it is an optical illusion/dirt/grime.
The symptoms i got when the built engine was done, was after it had warmed up i got gushes of white smoke on the slightest bit of de-acceleration (ie if i revved the engine, it would gush out).
self destruct begun after valve lash adjustment. another thing to consider.
that a posibility why is did not show up on dyno/driving power run's
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
ummm.. really bad at engine advise.. but you sure the detontation didnt lead to burning a hole in your head gasket leading to the overheating??
i took my head to the same place to get it serviced. and i had a chat with dyno dave and he kinda told me how they messed up my head.
1. they cut the valve seats too deep so they shaved a little off the top of each valve stem to compensate
2. they also mixed up my valves- dyno dave told me that each valve guide is honed to each valve. and this causes the motor to burn oil
this is what dave told me over the phone. dave has the head now and i will tell u what else is wrong with the head once i have a chat with him
thanks for the comments. yeh the head has undergone a full service, crack check etc etc. The head defaintly warped after the fact though. the deck sunk also. all this with my temp gauge never going over 97'CQuote:
Originally Posted by claymore
My blown motor used to use up oil as well
but my new one doesnt and both by the same builder
maybe he did it properly this time
valve adjustment was done JUST before the dyno, unfortunatly. so engine was dead within 400km's of the valve adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
First engine has detonated itself to death.....Second engine...OUCH
care to elaborate?Quote:
Originally Posted by spanks
fark.....i hope mine does not play that shit with me!
oh well live and learn......Always check the clearence from the vtec lobe!
anyways how is it all going now man....ready to come to the creek with me?