Printable View
Formula R and Edge 5w-30 are a hydrocracked synthetic oil. They start with a mineral oil and break it down to the desired length so that it has the viscosity that they want. That's also why they are cheaper.
I use Formula R 0w-40 which is a PAO like Mobil 1. More expensive though.
I have an unopened bottle of Formula R 5w-30. Anyone wants to buy it off me? Hehe.
wow there's some decent info has been displayed in this thread :D:D
found something out the other day when shopping for oil for my MDX...
if anyway actually flip through the booklet by each oil makers u can see that there's a slight different on oil grades recommended by individual makers... i've used 5w-40 since 30,000km and when i looked at penrite they said 10w-30...
IMO.. honda cars don't like thick oils as the compression ratio is pretty high and which means there's less spaces for oil lubrications...
but i am a bit fan of motul... used x-cess fullsyn last time and am going to use it again!
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Sorry, I think I'm a bit confused as yet. You say in the first sentence that Formula R and Edge 5W-30 are a hydrocracked/hydroprocessed synthetic oil right? Meaning its a Group III oil base stock.
But you are saying that the Formula R 0W-40 is PAO based, which the molecules are built from the ground up and is a Group IV Oil.
So what about the new Castrol EDGE 0W-40 then, which seems to have replaced the Formula R 0W-40 that you use. Seeing that this is what it says on the new EDGE bottles, also the fact that Formula R 0W-40 isn't being produced anymore according to their website?
Are you suggesting that the EDGE 5W-30 is a Group III whereas you didn't mention anything about the EDGE 0W-40 being a Group III or a Group IV base? But I assume the EDGE 0W-40 is a Group IV PAO based oil?
I cannot seem to find every information on the net on these oils, not helped by the fact that Synthetic Oils have different interpretations by everyone although I agree that PAO oil basestock are the best (except for Ester Based oils like Redline, which works well but doesn't last long).
Although I checked what I got, which are the properties of the new CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 vs the Mobil 1 0W-40. The Pour Point for the EDGE 0W-40 is -54C which is same as Mobil 1 0W-40, and to obtain that performance I thinkg and assume only a PAO is capable. Other measurements like High Temp High Shear Viscosity for both oils are nearly the same as well, 3.6 for Mobil 1 and 3.7 for Castrol Edge 0W-40.
Comparing the Mobil 1 10W-30 vs the Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 however, the Mobil 1 seems to have the edge (no pun intended) with the pour point being -45C and -38C respectively.
Getting conned by Castrol again.. :rolleyes: :confused:
Yup! You're right. Edge 0w-40 is also a Group IV. Everything from Formula R is carried over to the new name of Edge. I think they might have tweaked the formula, but the base stocks should be the same as the prices are about the same as when Formula R was being sold.Quote:
Originally Posted by Omotesando
At 5W and 10W, the pour points are not really indicated by the number as 5 and 10 indicate the viscosity. They can make an oil that is more viscous, but stays at that viscosity to lower temperatures than a cheaper oil with lower viscosity but quickly "hardens" as the temperature drops. Misleading eh? Well, I'd expect Mobil1 10w-30 to have a lower pour point too, since it is a bloody expensive and good oil. Hehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Omotesando
I've read that generally, 5w oils have a pour point down to -40ºC, while 0w is the same viscosity as 5w, but the pour point is lower to -46ºC (lower by 10ºF). You know what this means? Mobil1 10w-30 (Gold) is a 10w that performs as well as a 0w oil in cold conditions! No wonder Porsche uses it in their cars.
Going from Mobil/Castrol whatever to FEO is fine. I've only ever used FEO for the 4 years in which I've owned my integra. Ask the guys who bought it. The engine was "beautiful"
When I recently bought my prelude vtir it had a mobil synthetic 0w-60 blend worth $80. The exhaust note sounded quite nice and the engine was smooth. When I recently got it professionally serviced (by Hannys) I went back to Honda FEO blend worth $27. Let me tell you, it is awesome! It sounds like a Honda vtec again...a high pitched scream and so eager to rev
Like the others have said. 10w is enough to protect your engine under most cold Australian conditions. Don't be confused by the 40 and 50 blend stuff. Think, a car spinning to 8000rpm will be more efficient using thinner oils. The thicker ones will just be restricting it, hence the reason why the S2000s and NSXs using 20. It lets the Honda scream! just make sure you keep it serviced every 5000ks if you drive it hard
this thread is pretty good...
you boys dont happen to work for an oil company do you...amzing insight
Hey guys, wat oil range should i be using for my car? Its done a little over 160k on the clock and currently running on 10 -30w FEO. Should I just stick to the same range? If I drive normally and only hit vtec like once or twice a week is it OK to leave the oil change to like 10000kms? Ive only done oil change once since I had this car which was like at 4500kms. Thanks.
Stick to 10w-30 if you can. You can go from 0w-30 up to 10w-40 with little change. But 10w-30 is the recommended one. Change your oil every 6 months or 10,000km. If you want to change sooner, it is fine. Honda FEO is cheap. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyf1
Cool, guess I can go back to FEO to save $$$ :D
Just make sure you stick to the same viscosity, just in case you are running Mobil's 5w-50. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by elim
why cant i change viscouity b/w oil changes?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitZ
You can go from a lower Viscosity to a higher one generally, especially if you are going on the track and want a bit more oil thickness to protect the parts.
But if your engine is used to the higher viscosity engine oil with a thicker protective oil film (which doesn't rev as good anyway), then the tolerance of all the moving parts, the valves, etc, will be used to the thicker oil, so when you put thinner oil into it won't be protective enough. Most likely you are going to start hearing a lot of weird metallic noises coming from within the engine :(
For people who don't really rev the car to VTEC so much, I think running 0W-40 is going to be the best oil to use. Saves you fuel in the long run, although the engine oil is going to be higher priced.
EDITED: I drive the car hard enough that I am scared to use 0W-40, but might give it a try next time, to see if it uses any oil with constant high revving. Thinner oil does so much on N/A engines, but got to be safe with it :)
I most often used Mobil 1's as people in the know have done lab tests with it, and it is really good, and so is ELF. Castrol's new engine oils sound good too but as aaronng said some of the synthetics, aren't really fully synthetic as it was originally devised that only PAO or Esters can be terms fully synthetic. So choose Castrol's carefully. :wave: