Best Capacitor?

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Originally Posted by aka_NSX

most of the cap is made by SPRAGUE in USA means all capacitor is the SAME only the brand is different, this system was introduced by Richard Clark back in 94 or 95 ( AUTOSOUND 2000 ) in his BUICK always the winner in IASCA Grand Final

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assumably they are made from same manufacturer or company, not all are those. for example: you look at a car manufacturer, they buy other parts from other manufacture that built for other brand as well(are they all the same?)they are just manufacturer or contractor that build to a requested specification
this apply to all other goods as well not just cap, yes there a some with same material but not all are. There are some with better high grade material which set them apart which is where brand and price range come into play.
so you tell me they all the same??? are all honda's model the same?? bridgestone manufacture all the same type?? of course not, there different material use even if it from the same manufacture. Do a search on cap built material

In sticking with that automotive related anaology, lets take a look at the current Barina and old Daewoo Lanos (or was it Kalos?). When it was a Daewoo it was a sh!t car, now that it's been rebadged as a Holden and had some exterior and interior work done (to Holden's specifications) it's still a sh!t car yet it cost more. So basically you're just paying more to get the turd polished up so that it doesn't look like turd...

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Stop swearing.

Upgrading the ground doesn't solve the light dimming issue when the A/C kicks in.

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sometimes you have to raise your voice and add a swear word in for those who dont listen, now with what you said, i assume you have prrof of what you claim? if not you also dont know what your talking about :wave:

lights that dim when a system is cranked is a sign that the ground return to the battery is crapola, now the only way to fix it is find out, with a multimeter and some time, where the ground issues are, in most cases it will be the amp ground. plus a lot of bunnings, DIYer's, dont upgrade the battery ground. if your going to run a 4awg power cable to the amps then you also need a 4awg ground cable added, your taking power out, but on what is it going to return? on that shitty little factory ground cable?

it aint rocket science, but looks like all those mentally challenged people seem to go out and buy this or buy that to try and fix something that is sooooooo simple its just they dont like to listen to people in the know, but rather opt to listen to the salesman that wants to offload a shiny new cap or chrome plated alternator. that does also depend, but if you go up towards the top of this thread you will see where ive mentioned when a cap is needed as a rule of thumb.

might also want to have a look at this thread, it seems like this person also has the same issue... http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27381

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Originally Posted by ICACHA

sometimes you have to raise your voice and add a swear word in for those who dont listen, now with what you said, i assume you have prrof of what you claim? if not you also dont know what your talking about :wave:

lights that dim when a system is cranked is a sign that the ground return to the battery is crapola, now the only way to fix it is find out, with a multimeter and some time, where the ground issues are, in most cases it will be the amp ground. plus a lot of bunnings, DIYer's, dont upgrade the battery ground. if your going to run a 4awg power cable to the amps then you also need a 4awg ground cable added, your taking power out, but on what is it going to return? on that shitty little factory ground cable?

it aint rocket science, but looks like all those mentally challenged people seem to go out and buy this or buy that to try and fix something that is sooooooo simple its just they dont like to listen to people in the know, but rather opt to listen to the salesman that wants to offload a shiny new cap or chrome plated alternator. that does also depend, but if you go up towards the top of this thread you will see where ive mentioned when a cap is needed as a rule of thumb.

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No swearing means no swearing. Please refer to the Terms & Conditions where you should refrain from posting offensive or vulgar content. BTW, I'm not against your opinion on the caps/grounding. I'm just against the swearing ;)

With regards to the grounding, I've installed my grounding kit made from 4 gauge wiring, gold terminals and connectors. I replaced existing grounds including the negative terminal to the chassis and added new ones to areas that required it (alternator and intake manifold sensor ground on CL9). While it did solve warm starting problems, it did not help with the dimming light issue when the A/C kicked in. It's the alternator that is not handling the current draw of the A/C kicking in.

My next step was replacing the stock battery (Yuasa low capacity, 300CCA and goes flat within 30 minutes of playing the stock audio system). New high capacity battery did not fix the lights dimming. But now, my cold starting is great!

The next avenue is the capacitors...

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Originally Posted by Fr3aKi3

In sticking with that automotive related anaology, lets take a look at the current Barina and old Daewoo Lanos (or was it Kalos?). When it was a Daewoo it was a sh!t car, now that it's been rebadged as a Holden and had some exterior and interior work done (to Holden's specifications) it's still a sh!t car yet it cost more. So basically you're just paying more to get the turd polished up so that it doesn't look like turd...

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in this case yes but that not to say that 100% how things work, you come to conclusion too soon by just comparing thes two brands, if you break it down im sure their much more imrovement (parts wise and design) keep in mind that both these products are made with a set low budget aiming at low cost sale price (therefore cheap material annd design compare to others) why not compare it to the HSV (yep you guess it from holden:same manufacture) im sure the technology and Material is DIFFICULT (so how can it all be the same?). So I quote what the other guy said "all the SAME" WRONG.

eg. say you are a curtain manufacturewhom made curtain for other company oversea, Australia order 100 curtains with cheap cotton dye material where as America order also 100 curtains but with better texture silk fabric (which will cost them more because better materia is used so there resell price will be higher). see what what i mean from same maufacture but different quality because manufacture like these make to requested specification. Im trying to proof my point to the fellow that said that all cap made from the same company therefore is all the same except the badging. One company doesnt produce everything they buy bits and pieces from other manufacture then they might go through another company that mass produce their product.
conclusion: just because of some products from the same manufacture for made for different brand using the same technology or architexture that's not to make a generalised idea that all the other product is of the same assumption. 80% of the time what you buy is what you, im saying 80% because there will always be exception.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

My next step was replacing the stock battery (Yuasa low capacity, 300CCA and goes flat within 30 minutes of playing the stock audio system). New high capacity battery did not fix the lights dimming. But now, my cold starting is great!

The next avenue is the capacitors...

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it sounds like your battery is cactus anyway if its dead after only half an hour, that could explain why your still getting dimming of the lights. possibly a cell or two is dead and wont hold full charge.

swearing is good for the soul :)

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Originally Posted by ICACHA

it sounds like your battery is cactus anyway if its dead after only half an hour, that could explain why your still getting dimming of the lights. possibly a cell or two is dead and wont hold full charge.

swearing is good for the soul :)

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No, my battery was fine because I don't play my audio without the car running. But many (and I mean many) TSX owners and a few Euro owners have experienced this. The battery is inadequate for the Euro which runs everything electronically. The part number of the battery is the same as the one used in the Mazda 121.

Anyway, if you read my post, the same dimming happens with my new battery. New battery is much better in terms of CCA and RC. When weighed, the new battery weighs about 60% more than the stock battery and they are the same size! Hence the cell/energy density is much higher.

i didnt expect my topic to turn into such a debate, lol

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Originally Posted by DSNTGR8

i didnt expect my topic to turn into such a debate, lol

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As long as the thread generates good info for ppl searching for it, then I'm all for it. hehe:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

With regards to the grounding, I've installed my grounding kit made from 4 gauge wiring, gold terminals and connectors. I replaced existing grounds including the negative terminal to the chassis and added new ones to areas that required it (alternator and intake manifold sensor ground on CL9). While it did solve warm starting problems, it did not help with the dimming light issue when the A/C kicked in. It's the alternator that is not handling the current draw of the A/C kicking in.

My next step was replacing the stock battery (Yuasa low capacity, 300CCA and goes flat within 30 minutes of playing the stock audio system). New high capacity battery did not fix the lights dimming. But now, my cold starting is great!

The next avenue is the capacitors...

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LOLLLL u did all that on a 2004 euro?

well i had the problem ur talking about. i droped a 800cca 80-90amp/h into my car all problems disssappeared and funnily enough the stereo sounds a 100x better now that the amps arnt starved of power, by the way my amps have the cappacity for 2000rms sooo its not like im only running a little 4 channel. i hope that may be of some help