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Thanx CRXer... does this code check have to be done imediately after an engine cutout event ? ie on the side of the road.
Or does the fault code remain in the ECU even after a restart?
Still got to find the ECU first... not sure if I'm obd0 ro obd1....
Good chance the car is OBD1,so go with the ECU check posted above.
The ecu is located where your passenger would rest there feet against the fire wall(Im fairly sure for an LS),pull back the carpet & u will see a cover plate,if there is a little hole through the centre of the cover plate,then the car is OBD0 & u need to read the codes from the LED that will flash thru this hole,instead of reading the check engine light on the cluster.
If OBD0-simply turn key to ignition(position 2) & see if the LED flashes thru the hole.
If OBD1-short out SCS connector(as shown in that thread),turn key to ignition & watch check engine light on cluster for flashes.
Reset ECU after.
string... well it was the distributor and it made all those signs as these problems, and it use to do it bout 6 times a day as well. i ended up takin it to an auto elect. i just dont think its the problems ur saying.
Obviously there is going to be symptons which belong to multiple causes, all i'm saying is try the main fuel relay first. $10 vs $250+ for a distributor, I know which one i'll choose...
Never heard of the main relay bringing on the engine light before. To bad ur not in adelaide i've got a spare distribotor about the place somewhere.
thankyouuuu, some1 is backing me up
When you say "it was the distributor", what specifically in the distributor was the problem ?... igniter, coil ?Quote:
Originally Posted by vtegra
Ok guys... I have'nt resoldered my main relay yet, perhaps I dont need to.
I uncovered my ECU (established that I am obd0), switched ignition to on and the ECU is flashing code 15, ie one long flash folled by 5 short flashes.
This is apparently "Ignition Output Signal", not being familiar with ignition systems in general, what is this likely to be pointing to ? Or could it still be many things including the main relay ?
Proberly igniter(ICM)Make sure all the teminals inside the distributor are tight and clean.Also check and see what brand it is, if it is a OKI is probably stuffed.
Thanks Edgeauto, I'll do that.
Have spoken over the phone to an auto electrician, he said it was more likely the coil ($450 plus labour... ouch), but maybe he was just going for maximum payout...
The car is definately getting harder to start after an "episode"...dont know if this means anything...
Could be a coil but doesn't normally bring the engine light on. To check the coil yourself, measure the resistance, between the 2 little terminals there should be about 1.2ohms and between a small terminal and the big 1(where it contacts with the cap) there should be about 10-12Kohms.BTW genuine coils aren't even that much.
If it is the ignitor & u keep driving it & the ignitor fails in the "ON" position,u will more than likely melt the coil as well as it remains charged with the ignition key left on.
so moral is,get fixed asap.