Urgent help! distributor has no spark??

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

just make sure he didnt remove the dizzy drive and put it back on 180deg out

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?? whats that. would this affect sparks not being produced once the cover is put back on?

i just came back from the mechanics, he said he did a full test on all the dizzy parts as well as engine and all my fuse to check for grounding , resisitance or any signs of power loss. nothing.

he even boosted my battery just incase, still nothing. we checked the rotation of the rotor and it sparks on everything turn. timing was correct also.

he measured the displacment of my carbon piece on the inside of my cover as well as the spring which sends the power from the dizzy. they all come in contact with my cap.

each 4 connectors on my cap were checked for resistance got only got a rating of 0.01

he said the only thing he could think of is my alarm immoboiliser or a wire is broken. tomorrow a auto electrician will come and inspect the car and the alarm system.

..strange

the alarm should have 2 or 3 point immobl. - dizzy being one of them -
have you swapped with a good known dizzy yet to see ?
Älso check in your engine bay fuse box for the 80a or 100a fuse (at the front of the box) - it can break under load or shorts and give you the problem you face here too

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

the alarm should have 2 or 3 point immobl. - dizzy being one of them -
have you swapped with a good known dizzy yet to see ?

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we used a dizzy off my mechanic's car which was the same and in near new condition. same thing happened. as well as new leads, coil, cover, rotor etc

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Originally Posted by EK4R

we used a dizzy off my mechanic's car which was the same and in near new condition. same thing happened. as well as new leads, coil, cover, rotor etc

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cool -

tested/swapped your main relay yet ?

Tried to remove excess fuel in the chambers ? ( might of flooded)

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

cool -

tested/swapped your main relay yet ?

Tried to remove excess fuel in the chambers ? ( might of flooded)

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i believe he said he has tested the relay and it was fine.

as for excess fuel. ill ask him tomorrow, but how would this affect my spark not being produced once the cover is on?

they is no spark only when the cap is placed over the distributor. they is spark without the plastic cap.

note: the test was done via a checker tool that would spark once the rotor started turning. the checker tool is placed one of the four connectors on the cap and one end grounded to the chassis

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Originally Posted by EK4R

i believe he said he has tested the relay and it was fine.

as for excess fuel. ill ask him tomorrow, but how would this affect my spark not being produced once the cover is on?

they is no spark only when the cap is placed over the distributor. they is spark without the plastic cap.

note: the test was done via a checker tool that would spark once the rotor started turning. the checker tool is placed one of the four connectors on the cap and one end grounded to the chassis

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sorry didnt browse thru most of the thread - jsut stating the obvious checks.

Excess fuel = flooded , and the spark plugs are pretty much coated with fuel and cannot ignite. Take out each sparkplug , and disconnect the dizzy + fuel pump and turn to car over a few times and hopefully abit of mist / gunk will fly out. Or more so to air out the cylinders.


Did you try the basic test with a spare spark plug ? Plug in a spark plug into one of the spark leads , ground it to the head or the chassis and turn it over to see if any spark ?

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

sorry didnt browse thru most of the thread - jsut stating the obvious checks.

Excess fuel = flooded , and the spark plugs are pretty much coated with fuel and cannot ignite. Take out each sparkplug , and disconnect the dizzy + fuel pump and turn to car over a few times and hopefully abit of mist / gunk will fly out. Or more so to air out the cylinders.


Did you try the basic test with a spare spark plug ? Plug in a spark plug into one of the spark leads , ground it to the head or the chassis and turn it over to see if any spark ?

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ah ok well here is the thing. our problem isnt with the sparks not working, its no spark at all from the distributor.

we didnt test the sparks when the leads are on. we tested if the sparks are coming out of the cap connectors by using a checker tool.

the tool is basically a screwdriver with a tube that ignite when sparks fly out.

so when the rotor turns and hits the connector which the checker tool is attached to, it would spark.

BTW, the car has a standard Honda fitted immobiliser and a Laserline top of the range Alarm. If you need help with that yo need to go to a Laserline alarm service ctr in Melb.

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Originally Posted by Civic Type R

BTW, the car has a standard Honda fitted immobiliser and a Laserline top of the range Alarm. If you need help with that yo need to go to a Laserline alarm service ctr in Melb.

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wouldn't the immoboiliser stop the dizzy from turning over ?? or just stop it sparking...?

cos my dizzy is turning over, just no spark once the cap is put on

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Originally Posted by EK4R

wouldn't the immoboiliser stop the dizzy from turning over ?? or just stop it sparking...?

cos my dizzy is turning over, just no spark once the cap is put on

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The immobilizer will stop the signal sent to the dizzy to ignite the fuel mixture.

The dizzy WILL turn over when the car turns over , regardless.


Remember , the dizzy is connected directly to the (inlet) camshaft , which is connected directly to the timing belt which is connected directly to the crank , which is connected directly to the rods and thus pistons. All of which "move in union" when you try to start the car.

If it was an imobilisor fault you wouldnt have spark with the cap off?? you need a new mechanic, this guy sounds dodgy.

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Originally Posted by creativepunka

If it was an imobilisor fault you wouldnt have spark with the cap off?? you need a new mechanic, this guy sounds dodgy.

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yea thats what i thought. al good.

he said he will try a new ignitor tmrw and hopefully it will be powerfully enough.

are they different types of ignitions?? or they all the same with EKs