nah yonas, i meant the k24. k20 good.
i'm basing this off logic though. additional 600cc with transmission and etc parts would result in a sizeable difference in weight. is this wrong?
only point was, for k24 output =/= input.
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nah yonas, i meant the k24. k20 good.
i'm basing this off logic though. additional 600cc with transmission and etc parts would result in a sizeable difference in weight. is this wrong?
only point was, for k24 output =/= input.
exactly right, lots of ppl say it wrecks the balance of the car yet they have never ever seen one of these things in action nor even driven a type r to begin with...Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
hey in7egz ur going through the swap right now right can u tell me how its goin and what problems u have encountered so far ????
someone done it in usa alreadyQuote:
Originally Posted by iaquinta
k24a + dc2 chasis for circuit use. So far so good.
swap is about to start early next week, no problems yet, obviously u need custom mounts n a few other bits n pieces, karcept shifter kit $295<-- from jdmyard so that the shifter will sit in place, that is a must....
the most difficult thing so far has been tryin 2 find a good set of headers to use as standard ones just wont fit, i really wanted DTR headers but the waiting list is sooo long and i cant be bothered waitin 4+months to get them,
JDMyard now has they're own custom k swap headers which are looking really really good
no-ones mentioned a properly built b20
maybe not enough gain for the effort compared to a k20a or k24
depends, for a knock-up one it'd be a lot cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by qstoria
but as soon as you start building a quality one, from the indications given by toda and dynodave, its almost, if not more, expensive than a stock k24/20 hybrid
the K series are awesome, it will have alot more torque then ur b18c7. but i think its not worth it to put it into ur dc2r. if you want more power maybe u can go down the turbo path. if n/a is wat you want sticking with the b18c7 is good enough, spend the money on the b18c7, such as cams, etc etc.
if you can get a hold of a k series it will be better to get it put into ur crx or get a eg hatch, those things kill!!. i think a eg hatch with k20a can kill an evo, but stock...lol anyway put the k into a lightweight car to get the most out of it
the chasis of the DC2r would be my choice for a track weapon for a k-swap over a crx or eg civic. dc2r's were designed as a track going road car. eg civics? not so much. weight differences are not as much as you would think betweeen egs and dc2r. ef8 weighing in at 890 without driver (full street trim) will be the lightest but id still go for a dc2r stripped running a k20aQuote:
Originally Posted by simonnowis
i still say its worth ripping out the b18c7 - sell it and put that cash towards a k20a. u will notice the difference. no questions asked.
IMO
yeh true, but on the track, weight does make a difference(excluding your driving skills). the k20a eg hatch on jdm yard does like 12.4sec. the new evo and sti does that time. an n/a keeping up with turbo is pretty respectable.
the badhbt dc2 k20 was pretty quick as well though. drag that is. egk20 proven fast at a track (drag and circut) already in aus. maybe thats y i wanna see a dc2r be k-swapped and raced :)