You would have to pop down to your local car audio specialist store and see what they sell it for.
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You would have to pop down to your local car audio specialist store and see what they sell it for.
do the speakers require an amp to power them??
do u have the website for those brackets in japan?
All speakers require the audio to be amplified. all head decks have an amplifier. If you chose a set of cheap speakers with a high power rating, they'll have a very low effeincy rating, and you will need a higher powered amp to run them
If you plan to run your standard headdeck, (and honesly, if you want to upgrade it's alot of trouble for most ppl. You'll need to get a JDM dash surround for starters. I bought mine from Northfeild, and it cost me about $220. That was mates rates, and i've known the manager for a very long time), look for something with an effeicentcy ratein higher then 90db. Some Sony and kenwood speaker have 92db, and they'll be nice and loud with the 10wRMS or so that they stock deck supplys.
If you're a purist, this will still sound a little poo. Most lower power high effeceintcy speaker have very little control, and will sound muddy or tinny depending on the door.
While it's apart, please sound deadend the doors. You can pick up cheap stick on bitumen sheets from Autobarn if you ask nicely, and you'll need a heatgun to mount them properly.
Dynamat is much much better, but much more expensive. $60box of the above bitumen completely covered my Pug 205, with a sheet to spare, (talking 2x doors, rear panels, boot, A pillor and roof. everything in the cockpic spare the floor and fire wall) The $150 box of dynamat did the 2x front doors, and most of my boot in the jazz.
i have a set of Focal K2 Powers, that have a mounting depth of over 70mm. I'm running a 35mm MDF spacer, AND i had to dremel alot of the plastic re-enforcement out of the grill area on the door, and it still needs to be crossed over @ 140hz or it will hit the door.
140hz is VERY high crossover point for a system, but i'm using a Alpine 701 audio processor to time align the sub. from the drivers side, it feels/sounds like there's no sub, and everything's coming from the doors. (you add some time to the front stage, so the sub's wave front hits you @ the same time as the mids)
All pretty technical, and i'm relatively happy, considering that i've tuned it by ear/with a cheap RTA app on my iphone.
The problem i have with the setup ATM is the bottom shelf on the dash, screws up the accustics, as i run my tweet in the kicks. (give you the best imageing). i'm getting a resonance somewere, and i'm puttying it down to that. Need a real RTA to work it out.
Planing to move the K2P's into my tiguan and buy 4x 2inch peerless full range speakers for mids, setting 2x in the A pillor window, with a Fostek(?) Ribbon tweeter, and a 5inch Peerless subwoofer for the doors. Out of the states, from a company called madisound.
OH, and if you want an awesome, fully sick subwoofer, the Imagedynamic ID8 8inch sub is awesome. It's small enuf to pretty much run in that little pocket in the drivers side in the boot, and in my current setup, i've had ppl swear that my systems' running a 12inch.
amp i'm using is an alpine 5 channel 1500w amp thou, (MRV-7863 i think.... something like thatcan't remember)