I use Wurth, but they all do the same
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I use Wurth, but they all do the same
I've used Nulon before (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Eng.../#.U3CAYShdBq4). But thinking of trying Liqui Moly (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...156709#Reviews).Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
I use Liquid Moly. Even engine treatment.
Used it 4 times already. Pretty happy with the product.
Since most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold (first minutes after starting) I use a 5W oil.
At the moment I'm running Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40. But the 5W-30 would probably be a tad better (costs more too).
Both are within Honda's specs.
I hope you arent giving your car a hard time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 02DC5R
Cos them oils you have mentioned aren't in the K20 specs. Too thin.
OK, I have to admit. Sometimes I thrash her a little. I've even been known to bounce her off the rev limiter :)
But seriously, check out the workshop or owners manual (page 192). 0W-30 to 15W-40 and everything in between is within Honda's recommended specs. You pick depending on ambient temperatures.
I know you know this. But for those that don't.... that first number before the W is the viscosity at low temp on start up.
That's in the morning, when she's been sitting overnight and the engine is stone cold. Most of the oil has trickled down to the sump overnight. And there is only a very thin layer clinging to the moving parts. That's when they say most engine wear takes place. That's when I want the oil to flow as fast as possible, and protect the engine in those first few minutes as she's warming up. That's why I pick 5W. I can even see the sense in going down to 0W if you live in a cold place (this would be overkill in Brissy).
3 minutes after start-up, she's at normal operating temperature. That's when the second number kicks in. 30 or 40 or whatever you run. Both 30 & 40 as a second number offer pretty good protection at normal operating temps for this type of engine. At normal operating temps the oil pump is providing a healthy film of fast flowing oil, and those metal parts are gliding over each other with little to no contact.
That's why I run 5W40, but would probably (happily) run 5W30.
This maybe fine when the engine is new. Not worn by 12 years of love :).Quote:
Originally Posted by 02DC5R
As she gets older, story changes abit. Pretty sure you agree.
Also picking your oil in australia based on ambient temp is not that important. Please try test this yourself. Cos I've, No real start up issue found going in between 5w - 10w - 15w. Only just that 5 comes up to operating temp fastest. My engine which has 207,xxx KM feels alot better on 15w-70 penrite then on purple royal 5w-30, Comes up to operating temp within 2-3 minutes or of granny driving. From memory wasn't factory recommended 10w-30.
Must pick oil based on your engines condition. Thicker oil maybe required in engines that have a few more k's.
using thicker oil based on kms travelled alone sounds ignorant lol
I would never use 70 in honda
Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Amant r u okQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
You have a good point. Engine condition and wear should definitely be taken into account when you select an oil.
And allot of people go thicker as engines get more miles on them.
I can't always hear or feel the difference between synthetic oils (I can't hear or feel the difference between running a 5W40 and 10W30).
So I rely on the specs from the manufacturer's, and what other people are saying.
But I am told the cheaper mineral based oils (say a cheap and nasty 20W40 Kmart brand $8 for 4 litres :) ) can make some engines quieter.
But this isn't necessarily a good thing (drowning the moving parts in thick ooze is not necessarily good lubrication).
I thought the Penrite 70W oil was designed for tappet and pushrod 1970s V8sQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Didn't know they made a 15W70. If I had a 351 Ford XC Cobra V8, that's the oil I'd be running !