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Good way to be man.Quote:
Originally Posted by CIV-18C
Can't comment on prices regarding parts for this swap, never looked into the EK Kswap much, been fixated on the DC/EG swap haha
Here's some reading if you havn't seen it yet
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35426
dc2r subframe is cheap. I got one here if you're keen. pm if interested
Thanks matey.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
=)
lol - understandably from your point though. If I ever drive up i'll be sure to hit you and the other QLD honda boys up.
Thanks for the link too.
Appreciate it.
Wish I saw this out of the office though.... LOL
Great!Quote:
Originally Posted by 89lude
no harm in collecting cheap parts for now..... right guys? LOL
Will do.
EKK2 + dc2/eg subframe will fix the problem
Seems the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
Apologies for sounding like a broken record guys.
Thank you to all those who shared their input.
Extra thanks to "mullens" who shared his experience in my car diary thread too.
Thus ends the chapter in this thread re; EK, Kswaps and driveshafts lol
Until I, or someone else, actually put new mounts in and documents it in here of course.
=)
It might get confusing. But maybe a reference / index page can be made at the start of the thread?
Although it might be a bit hard for VVVtec to monitor.
Anyway, carry on. lol
They are designed to work at a certain range of angles, and each design (there are many) has different maximum operating angles that are able to sustain a certain load, otherwise they fail. It is pretty hard to transmit a fair amount of force through a coupler to change direction, this is why we use gearboxes - obviously we can't do this with driveshaftsQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
The loss essentially comes from frictional losses. It gets worse as the operation angle increases. Each joint is unique in it's characteristic so it's not as simple as putting a number on it but it is known to be a loss operating at an angle. I don't have data on these shafts to spit numbers out otherwise I would
kswap almost complete so hard atm
Know exactly how u feelQuote:
Originally Posted by Slow.ek1
i know how you feel too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartoon
Haha what are you guys stuck on?
Battling through the final part of my wiring and shifter cable install. Next is trying to remember where all the vacuum lines go. ;(
Mines on the road :D got the swap done in 14 days :D
theres only like 2 vacuum lines lol what wiring are you doing? just the conversion harness ones?
what part of the wiring is causing you trouble? vac lines are pretty easyQuote:
Originally Posted by Cartoon
brake booster to intake manifold
pcv to intake manifold
valve cover to intake arm
charchol canister is like this IIRC
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...oomed_rs77.jpg
1. nothing
2. fuel hard line that goes back to fuel tank
3. vacuum port on intake manifold
4. port on throttle body
I ran a dx canister. Guys is the states swap em over as there is less lines.
The wiring that was or is stil causing a small issue is the mess of the factory loom. 2 wires I'm left tracing. I think my conversion harness is all wired up right.
You guys got a photo of the coolant lines running into the idle controls valve?
The wiring that's causing the problem is mostly the Oem loom was a bit of a mess so I'm trying to clean that all up
i think you might be talking about one of those 2 port canisters, one goes to fuel hard line other goes to port on throttle body iirc.
Hopefully your conversion harness works,I did a bit of the wiring on alex's swap and the radiator fans wouldnt work, thought id screwed something up but turned out to be the conversion harness he got neglected to attach anything to the fan circuit lol, not hard to fix but a bit annoying lol.
From what ive learnt, the DC2 VTIR fan trigger via the Kpro is located on the a/c fan side. Its weird, but it works if you attach the fan to the a/c fan (b18c) plug
I have no ac stuff left in my car so I hope it will be ok :( we will find out sooner or later I guess.
Yeah my canister is the 2 port one. All hooked up and good to go. A few guys in the states swap over to the 2 port one.
interesting, alex has his ac harness removed but iirc we did reconnect the ac harness to check and got no voltage at the plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
its an easy fix tho the fan wiring(black with red strip) can be depinned from the old grey plug under the drivers side dash that you have to disconnect to use the conversion harness, then just pin it into the correct location on your conversion harness and your fans will work.
so got my car tuned recently and was checking in my kpro. then i found
vtec window:
lower boundary 4000rpm 70kpa
upper boundary 4500rpm 90kpa
im thinking this means if i was to keep throttle low and rev all the way to 8000rpm vtec wouldnt kick in right?
isnt upper boundary supposed to be set at much lower map reading e.g. 30kpa?
thanks for input
Yeah you're right, the upper boundary should be a lower number ie. it should only rev to the upper RPM limit at a low throttle opening and hence lower MAP. As it is your car will always engage VTEC at 4000.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
doesnt it mean that if map doesnt read more than 70kpa, i wouldnt engage vtak ever?Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
Hmm actually on second thought I've got no idea what would happen with the VTEC parameters set up like that. At worst it will always engage at the upper boundary (4500) irrespective of MAP/load. It's your car, you tell me haha, what RPM does the VTAKs arrive?Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Hey,
For the upper window, If you are 90kpa or over then only until the revs are at 4500rpm will VTEC engage.
After VTEC has engaged.
For the low window, Only until you are below 70kpa and below 4000rpm will VTEC dis-engage.
This is to reduce a 'jerk' type of power delivery when driving around the VTEC window rpm's. If you only have a switch around the VTEC 'window' then the car is quite annoying to drive around those rpms.
Hope this helps.
How was the tune mocchi? Who did you end up going with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
the help file suggest that purpose of upper boundary is not for disengaging vtak but to activate vtak on part throttle.Quote:
Originally Posted by dasicvtec
so my guess was confirmed below. vtec parameters was indeed set incorrectly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spunkster
tune was alright. cbauto.Quote:
Originally Posted by neut
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar11984_25.gif
That doesnt sound right at all.
mine was
lower 5000 / 90
upper 5200 / 24
for the k24 + bp stage 2+ cams
Ok. I'm back on the never ending hunt for knowledge and parts.
I'm about to upgrade the drivetrain of my own.
I posted the below on an American forum. But just in case anyone in Australia has already tackled this, with parts readily available to us, I thought it best to ask around in here too.
Currently:
- EK Hatchback 1998 Model
- K20A2 Conversion
- Hasport EKK1 mounts
- Mixed shafts. DC5R outers and DC2R inners
Want to upgrade to:
- Hasport EKK2 mounts
- Using DC2R subframe
- I plan on purchasing a set of Karcepts 36mm hub adaptors
- Going to use DC5R axles
Is the inners swapped for length still required? Most of the talk is about base model DC5 and not much on hubs with Karcepts hub adaptors.
My apologies if this has already been cleared up.
On a side note:
A couple of things I'm also trying to research on are headers and power steering;
- Will upgrading from EKK1 to EKK2 mounts require a new set of headers due to the angle, etc, etc.
- And, will using the DC5 power steering system on EKK2 mounts still work without using hood lifters? I'm ok with cutting the bracing underneath the hood to make it work.
Any light on the above is much appreciated. Will continue to search around for the answers on the above to if anyone does not want to clutter this thread with other information.
And just in case my explanation of the "DC5 power steering system" doesn't make sense. This is what my bay looks like.
http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...2-10175424.jpg
Thanks all
Mark
Im pretty sure you dont have a clearance problems like eg civics have. I had to cut and make a hump on mine. If anything I think you have to cut the inner skeleton abit to clear that powersteering unit. But im pretty sure ek dont have a problem with clearance. Love your ek! Looks so fresh out of the factory.
CIV-18C
If you are doing the subframe why not change all the hubs to dc2r (better wheels choice,also bigger brakes ect)
to shed light what headers are you running atm ???
and with running ps shouldn't change much but i dont have it so i wouldn't know lol
how long has your car been done for as i have never seen it anywhere ?!?
lol
Thanks for the reply Neut.Quote:
Originally Posted by neut
You're correct. I had to cut part of the skeleton to make it clear. But I think going with the EKK2 mounts means I need the swap will "resemble the placement of an EG". So I think you're right. The hump will have to come. But I'm not too keen on it so may opt for the EP3 pulley.
Thanks for the kind words too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow.ek1
My hub/stud pattern were decided upon recently due to the purchase of wheels that I have been keen on for a LONG time now. And having read the reviews on Karcept hubs I'm not too hesitant to use them in order to upgrade to a 36mm spline and keep using the wheels I just bought
=)
Right now my headers are R Crew headers. Old brand so you may not have heard of it. Have recently bought J's Racing headers to upgrade that also. Not much more info I can give than that sorry as I'm not really sure what you're after ?
As above for power steering. I have a ill feeling I will need to do something aboutit due to clearance issues
=(
Car was completed in October 2006.
Hence the EKK1 mounts and old R Crew headers being used.
:)
Some questions on engine choice based on what i've found online..
Quote:
ENGINE CHOICES
There are basically 2 types of K series, the economy versions and the performance versions.
First I will talk about the performance versions.
The following engines are performance oriented with 3 lobe Vtec on both camshafts, similar to the DOHC VTEC engines we all love:
K20A2 found in 02-04 acura RSX type-s
K20A (jdm only) found in JDM ITR and CTR, also UKDM ITR. UKDM CTR is like our K20A2 but with LSD
K24A2 found in USDM Acura TSX. Only available in America
K20Z1 found in 05+ RSX type-s
K20Z3 found in 06+ Civic SI
Ok all of these engines are basically similar. The ITR, CTR, K20Z1 and K20Z3 have better cams than the K24a2 and K20a2.
For Drag racing the K24a2 is the best platform. The K24a2 head has more meat to port out and flows similar to the others. All of the heads flow amazing and most 300whp+ motors have stock headwork still. The heads are not what needs improvement on these engines, its the induction systems that are lacking (unlike B series which lack in the head department in comparison).
Now for the Economy engines. Although they say I-vtec on them still they are quite different. They don't have any vtec on the exhaust camshaft, and on the intake camshaft its just a Two lobe system instead of three. Their vtec activates at 2200rpm and just helps with fuel ecomony. That said these are still big motors and make extremely fast cars for a budget (most can be had for $800 to $1200).
K20A3 found in 02-05 Civic SI hatchback and 02-05 RSX base model
K24A1 found in Honda CRV 02+
K24A3 found in Honda Accords
K24A4 found in Honda Accords
Does that mean our aus spec k24a3 found in the euro's isn't AS good or carry as much potential, compared to say..a Type S DC5 k20z1, just due to the 3cam/2cam lobe design?
and also, with mounts, for an ek, i was looking at running the ekk1 mounts, but i read they aren't as good as the ekk2, but i don't want to cut my chassis/convert it all to eg to use them. can anyone with experience with either give me their thoughts on them?
I'd be looking into running A/C and P/S and from what I gather custom lines and things like that are required, but the rest is pretty well documented online (wiring, ecu etc)
trying to understand this all a bit better.
k24a3 is 3 lobe exh and int. that usdm info is wrong
use ekk2, eg/dc subframe and arms dont cost alot
but with the ekk2 mounts dont you have to cut the driver sides mount/railing to place the mount?Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
K24a2 = K24a3
I see, so even wiki has it wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
yeah.Quote:
Originally Posted by carayan
yes it doesQuote:
Originally Posted by carayan
I have one in my car, shall I send you photos of the cams lol
nope.Quote:
Originally Posted by carayan
Here is my 2007 K24a3Quote:
Originally Posted by carayan
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...88402257_n.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM
hmm interesting stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
cheers for that
Has anyone here fitted up a K24 oil sump onto a K20 block?
Reason I want to do it is purely for clearance.
Yes i have.
Excellent.
Could you shed some light on it please.
Anything needed to know? Oil pickup? Fitment? Anything.
And is there much improvement in regards to ground clearance?
Thanks
Nothing to worry about, only need to buy shorter bolts as the alloy pan is thicker so it uses longer bolts.
Eh i never measured it, i still hit on the road every now and then. Oil pump clearance is not an issue.
Also your sump will take roughly and extra 800ml or so of oil over the alloy sump, which has to be a good thing.
Also if you want to keep your flywheel covered you will need a k24 inspection plate cover as, alloy sump cover won't fit anymore.
Duly noted.
Thank you so much!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...28937998_n.jpg
Okay guys need your help on my KRX.
Specs:
Street tyres 15x 6.5 rims
Stage 3 HASport Driveshafts (Discontinued - believe) Its the equivalent to level 2.9 drive-shaft.
DA integra hub\knuckle
I have noted that my passenger side drive shaft didnt properly sit inside the gearbox.
U can see about 5mm of the driveshaft sitting out.
Now i am suspecting its the C-clip. But have also ordered other things like gearbox seal and a new drive shaft nut also.
I plan to swap these old parts with the new ones being ordered.
The Drive shaft boots are intact and are NOT leaking or split/cracked or whatever.
Problems
Leaking transmission fluid not alot but small amount cause the drift shaft doesn't look to be fitting in.
There is no crunching or grinding sound when driving and the teeth on the drive shaft look to be okay.
What i want to know is ... is it the clip that needs to be replaced for it to click into the gearbox?
And has anyone had this sort of issue before.
My mate has a set of DSS 2.9 axles, and his do exactly the samd thing, they dont sit flush with the gearbox, they stick out by a few mm.
When I saw it with my own eyes, I thought something was wrong and even made him pull the shaft out so we could try and push the shaft in again.
In the end, thats just how those shafts are made. The same small gap is also present on the drivers side between the driveshaft and the midshaft.
I know its a different situation, but thought id share.
How much fluid are you leaking? What LSD do you have? Have you tried borrowing another driveshaft and test fitting?
its a small thin line of transmission fluid running down from the gearbox but its enough to be noticeable and would be about few drops over 15mins or so.
LSD is the standard 1 from an Ep3 gearbox.
grab ur service manual and measure/compare length of splines. compare it with oem if you have one
anyone notice
http://www.k20a.org/forum/
is offline and i confirmed with others its been down for a few days.
Hopefully its not hacked.
Yup been trying to get on last two days, no go :(
Hopefully just maintainence
i heard dr charles ddos them
Prob some bseries owner
just wondering how much more does a k20/k24 swap cost compared to a k20 swap?
Same cost
+
-2.4 bottom end $100-1000
-'Frank' kit, which includes new timing chain, chain guides, headgasket etc, everything to do oem frank $400
- Kpro $900
- Tune $500-5000
Roughly
$5000 tune. cot daym m8.
Lmao baller
BYP tune really gud. Worth the money.
Very quick at what they do too.....
byp top notch, no pinging at all
Do hasport offer an Accord Euro gearbox mount?
Yep lloyd, only for eg/dc tho
FUUUUUUUUUUUUU- discrimination!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Cheers Alex, I didn't think they did at all.
k power baby
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozni8Axsidw
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showpost.p...0&postcount=51Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Quote:
Right now, you can use the EKLHB2 and the EGK3 mounts to get the engine in the EK. There are some considerations though. You still need the EG or DC subframe, rack and lower control arms. The engine sits high and if you intend on using a K24 you will need to remove some of the under hood structure.
fukin negged mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
enjoy your red block
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar11984_26.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
K swap has crossed my mind....
can a k20z1 head be put together with a k24a3?
can you post some pictures of ur car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
Yes ofcourse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...tar39707_5.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
how is that helping me guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
*sigh.
Guys just need to know if its worth going a built k24 vs a k20/k24 frankie.
Build supercharge d series its fastest in market ATM, pm grifty for insider details
Built K24 bottom end with K20 headQuote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
K24 ftmfw
13k rpm b16 better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
yeah i realise the k20 head flows better.
But would you think if there was alot more work done to the k24 head it can flow better than the k20 head thou ?
The prb head casting(k20a, k20a2, k20z1) has more material in it before you hit the water jackets so it can take a bigger port, so a fully ported prb head will flow better than fully ported rbb head.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
Depends how far you want to go snoop, what are your goals?Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee