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I have Comptech header(got it 2nd.hand $500)I find it excellent particularly in the low -mid range,car pulls hard now to redline whereas before the engine seemed to be not as willing to go to redline.Toda will give you more gains over Comptech but $900 worth?I doubt it!For me it was a no brainer $500 compared(at the time)to $1500 for Toda.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord Basic
agreed, i ended up getting dcheaders for $375-400 compared to that hefty $1500.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
i'd personally rather spend the difference on tuning/ecu instead of spending all of it just on toda headers
If you spend that on the ECU and tuning, and the remaining parts are stock or crappy, the gains might be less than toda headers anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
comptech headers cant be that much worse compared to toda??Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Oh you have Comptech? Ok then. I thought you had stock headers and expected the ecu tuning to beat the Toda in gains.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
We've found that the TODA headers produce more significant with tuning.
naa i have dc sports but iam just saying in general after market headers + tuning > toda headers without tuning ??Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
Can go both ways, tuning the DC sports headers is limited by the primary pipes and every car is different, two different cars with the same tuning on the DC sports can lead to one churning out more power than a car with TODA headers with no tuning and the other making less gains.
Thank you all, I have purchased a Toda header and a xforce metal cat. I will try to put it on and do a dyno next year. I also going to put a ORC 309DS clutch and LSD on my EURO if all the parts came in next week. I have booked my mechanic on 16th DEC for install clutch. I have a problem posting photo on the forum. can't allow me upload photos (150kB only) any idea?
Also Can I ask, after ECU tunning, what function I will lose? mine is LUX model, with cruise control? Thanks all of you. I am very happy to listen any comments for you. Thanks
upload the photo to www.tinypic.com then post the link they give :)
depending what ECU your getting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord Basic
to install toda header on euro, must take down the whole engine?
nope... just bolt on...Quote:
Originally Posted by free2d
may require you to remove oil filter... depends how good you are lol :thumbsup:
hey was the TODA 1 piece or sub assembled from 3 segments 4-2-1?
Toda is 1 piece i think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
farkkk if it is it will be a biatch! to install yourself.....Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
easy if you have skills yo!
no you need the tools cant do it with just a floor jack i reckon.Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
You need a hoist.
yeh kinda what i am saying since it's a 1 piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Agreed.I watched my headers being installed and it'd be near impossible to do it with a floorjack and stands.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
unless you got 4ft floor stands :p lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Rofl the comptech is 1 piece as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
With the DC headers it's 2 piece so it's do-able.
But much easier on a hoist.
ROfl justin, yeh so much easier with more room to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
hehehe :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
i think i need a set of them so i can find my damn rattle!
*Edit, just measured, it was just under 400mm*Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I installed my Toda headers on Jackstands, which sits the car approximately 400mm above ground, it can be done, just need to be good at twisting and turning the headers a few times inside the cavity.
LOL... Mad bastard! I would never try that...Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
The bloody things are tricky enough on the hoist.
Stuff doing that IQ test flat on your back under the car.. :p
^^^
I did that 3 times already LOL!..... No Sweat... But the first time was filled with vulgarities LOL!!!!!!
BTW, I'm sending something over to you :)
Will a Toda header from a EURO R with K20A engine able to fit into my 2003 k24 engine?
Yes, the CL7 header is the one most guys have been using up untill quite recently.Quote:
Originally Posted by defibros
However there is a K24 CL9 header available now that allows you to keep the std catalyst.
http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/prod...i/k24a-cl9.jpg
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23733
So if i want to use the old cl7 header, i suppose i need the EURO R cat as well ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
yes.... or a custom cat... or buy the TODA cat... :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by defibros
What's the difference between the cl7 and cl9 toda headers? can you get toda hi flow cat with both systems?
the positioning on the CL7 sits higher so the CL7 headers have a fitment probs on our CL9 subframe underneath.
so if you do get it get the CL9 otherwise CL7 ones you will be paying for installer to mod your chassis.
if your buying them from TODA racing australia (adrian is awesome!)...Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
theyll fit the CL9 perfectly :thumbsup::thumbsup:
the CL7 version? The ones adrians gets are CL9... or am i totally of my mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
You're smoking something real guuuuuud. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
The CL7 Toda header will fit CL9. Just need to adjust the hanger a little bit. No subframe clearance problems, unlike with J's racing CL7 header.
yeh bummer must be pot!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
ya i thought so, because i never heard of fitment problem with the toda CL7 headers for our euro, but what about in terms of spec of the headers? what's the difference with the CL7 and CL9 toda headers?
Nah, the CL9 one has extra primary O2 sensor ports on the secondaries and comes with an adapter to change from the 2 spring-bolt flange to the 3-bolt trapezium shaped flange that we have on the cat inlet side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
It's in TODA AU's post on the previous page. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpos...&postcount=190Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Yup...
The main advantage with the CL9 header vs the CL7 header is that the CL9 header is an easy install for the home DIY guys.
As Aaronng said,
The CL7 header has a small issue with the hanger & the lead 02 sensor position is wrong.
This is sorted by adding a cat to the supplied test pipe & turningthe lead section 180deg.
The other bonus is the CL9 header comes with the donut gasket.
The CL7 does not. You're expected to reuse the existing one on your CL7.
CL9 header can be used with std cat or supplied test pipe.
CL7 header needs to be used with supplied test pipe & for road use, a cat added to that test pipe.
Cheers
Adrian
I have installed the TODA CL7 header, same issue with hanger and O2 plug. otherwise all good. I love the header, give me lots of torque compare with stock header. just a bit more noise but I love the noise. Installed a X-force metal cat and 5 zigen exhaust. the cat weld on the exhaust b pipe and cut off the taper section become straight run. which mean better flow. :).....
any difference in performance, adrian?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
yeah.. i'm keen to know whether there is any difference in performance between cl7 and cl9 ones..
how much are these headers anyways.. i'm damn keen to get a set..
Performance differance im unsure of. I would assume they are similar except don't forget the actual length/size of them is differant as the K20 Head sits higher than the K24.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
As for cost, new i think they fetch a VERY high premium due to poor exchange rates/eco crisis. I would assume at the cheapest mid to high 1000's.
Try $2,500AUD+Quote:
Originally Posted by Phased
That's a Joke. Seriously, Xforce Headers for $399 or get some custom ones made up. The powergain from Toda compared to custom/xforce would simply NOT be worth the extra $2000 almost.Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
Well that's all a perspective thing... as with all bolt-on modifications, their restrictions are only increased when everything around them improves. The 3-5kW difference the Todas would have on an otherwise stock Euro could become a lot more when other work gets done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phased
Depends, if you have the money and you want every last kW you can get... why not?
agreed:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
No Doubt. Although I personally wouldn't. I would prefer to spend that $2,000 on suspension, tyres, RBC+Full Exhaust. Unless you have limitless money, or a very high budget. You would be better off splitting it. for eg. $2500 could get you custom/xforce headers, custom full exhaust, RBC Intake and Air Intake. Which one do you think would make more power?Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
However, if you were to compare them to custom headers, or headers like Fujitsubo's/5zigen... I wonder what the REAL differances would be. Im pretty sure the majority of the time, it's money best spent elsewhere. The cars with the most power are usually the cars with custom built parts for the build, which usually are still a hell of alot cheaper than most high-end brands.
I would definantly buy Toda's/Fujitsubo's over most if they were in the low 1000's but @ $2500 it just simply isn't worth it.
N/A = expensive :(
I just did a summary of what I did on performance parts on my euro (not include all other parts e.g. badges, body kit or rims).
$10,500 for 155 hp @ wheel. about $67 per hp. is it sound ok or I did spend too much per hp?
My parts included - GreppM intake, Toda header, xforce metal cat, 5 Zigen pro racer twin exhaust and ORC clutch. included installation cost.
How do you guy think? welcome to tell me bad or good things.
:P
That's not how you calculate it. You need to take the 155hp minus the base hp and then you use that number to calculate $$ per hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord Basic
Here is mine:
Base - 110kW (147.51 hp)
Added headers - 119.2 (159.85 hp)
$350 for 12.34 hp gain to give $28.36 per hp.
Thanks, I don't know what is my car base power. :(