***Official What did you do to your EK today***

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Originally Posted by iceey

Installed my ctr lips came alone quite good
http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/xX...tml?sort=3&o=0

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http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...Xx/image-2.jpg

Had a fun 3 days rewiring / neating engine loom + central locking alarm ki
Never want to see another wire again hahaht

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...14154992_n.jpg
Not an update as such but got more AMMO stuff.. lol #imso****ingbroke

changed me guard so no more dented guard action

Does anyone know if the stock hatch muffler will fit straight on if the cars fitted with a whiteline rear swaybar which also has the back plate?

jizz

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/20/duju2ysu.jpg

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Originally Posted by MYEK9

No swirls or scratches, i use hand applicator pads, but also have a KEN auto buffer, (buying a meguiars g110v soon) , ive detailed probaly 15-25cars in the last 1 month, all with no swirls and scratches left behind,

I use only meguiars products, even though their expensive.. your left with showroom results, the way i see it, you pay for what you get...

I recently also did fellow friend/member p3akin integra type r , results where astonishing on how well the compound cut worked into the paint and the polish/wax @ the end to finsh of your hard work

the before and after on the pic shows it also . thats just the cut stage , not even polishing and look @ difference


http://i45.tinypic.com/2yzms76.jpg

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I hope your clay baring that surface.. ..before you work..

You are doing a great job ! , How Ever, im finding it almost near impossible to believe that you are removing swirls and scratches by hand. Please dont be offended im just amazed, also you should use a SUNLIGHT when cutting and buffing becasue to the eye you will never see it.. Products like meguiars are almost like fillers, it gives the look that there gone but really there not. after a couple of washes your back to wear you started.

Biggest offender of this is AUTO GLYM Super Resin Polish.

Also meguiars products are not the cream of the crop.. you can buy much much better at almost tripple the cost, but like you said you get what u pay for..

If you have never used a rotary before then maby as mentioned above use a random orbital buffer less chance of burning through, i use a paint gauge when cutting and buffing, worth the money..

Please don't take this the wrong way, u are doing a great job, but i have buffed ALOT of cars, and there is alot that goes into making a show car finish.. It took me 30 hours to cutt and rotary buff my car only, not including the time i took to wash it 3 times during that process..

How ever i can tell the diffence and it looks good :)

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Originally Posted by AlexK

rawrrrrrrrrrrrr

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I'm with this guy. Ever since I heard about that kenny dude getting a "cut and polish" from you, and to hear you were just claying and using a glaze via hand. You may be hiding a minute number of swirls. But definitely not a cut and polish. But if the paint is actually already in good condition, and you're just decontaminating it and chucking on some nuba wax for some short term protection. Good on ya.
Hence why I also asked for direct light into lens (via panel) or shots in sunlight. But if the clients are happy, good job!

I do recommend starting with a DA/RO like AlexK said (have an orbital path, very hard to heat up the paint, therefore very good for newbies so you dont burn through the paint). Get some good pads (festool/lakecountry ect), good compounds like Merzena (personal favourite). Read some guides on the net (or attend a hands on day with one of our traders, Car Care Products) and get started!

Finish of with some good quality waxes/sealants to protect your work.


edit. If you're not claying, you should punch yourself in the balls, you are effectively ruining people's paint by dragging along dirt and marring the paint.

But if you are, good on ya. I suggest some ClayMagic :]]

flame warrrrrrr

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Originally Posted by SilviaS15

flame warrrrrrr

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Mateeeee. You dont belong here.

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Originally Posted by PHO

I'm with this guy. Ever since I heard about that kenny dude getting a "cut and polish" from you, and to hear you were just claying and using a glaze via hand. You may be hiding a minute number of swirls. But definitely not a cut and polish. But if the paint is actually already in good condition, and you're just decontaminating it and chucking on some nuba wax for some short term protection. Good on ya.
Hence why I also asked for direct light into lens (via panel) or shots in sunlight. But if the clients are happy, good job!

I do recommend starting with a DA/RO like AlexK said (have an orbital path, very hard to heat up the paint, therefore very good for newbies so you dont burn through the paint). Get some good pads (festool/lakecountry ect), good compounds like Merzena (personal favourite). Read some guides on the net (or attend a hands on day with one of our traders, Car Care Products) and get started!

Finish of with some good quality waxes/sealants to protect your work.


edit. If you're not claying, you should punch yourself in the balls, you are effectively ruining people's paint by dragging along dirt and marring the paint.

But if you are, good on ya. I suggest some ClayMagic :]]

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Originally Posted by CivicEGSI

flame warrrrrrr

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Lol at that rawrr haha, i see u have the same process as my swelf but i got
Dodo clay, ahh the ball breaking stage of menzerna 500.......

You sir, are correct in every sentance.

And its not a war just contructive fees back

Gave it a quick wash and topped up my fluids yesterday... then this morning it was raining!

http://imageshack.us/a/img32/6213/im...0975486739.jpg