Cammed Motors Specs + DYNO Graph Mandatory

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Originally Posted by pengpeng

because im not as smart as you Benny.:o
if I was good enough to put a V10 F1 engine in my shitty civic, you wouldn't have a chance to speak would ya? I would say "why would someone put a 150kw kinder garten B20 in a civic?"
so please do not always judge things at your own level, remember, everything has a reason for being done, so respect to people's choices. ;)

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You asked for comments, so i gave some. I didnt want to sound rude, but come on, if you build the engine, you need to finish it properly. You may as well not tune it until everything is done (All at least the intake and exhaust gets done). Clearly you will waste more money getting it retune with a new intake and exhaust system

Then again, its your money. Im just pointing out the most efficient way of doing things. Its up to you if you want to take those constructive advice and use them

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Originally Posted by B18cEG

I was gonna add something to that last dyno post yesterday but thought not but since everyone else did, I would have expected much more that that from a pro3'd b18c7 with 12.5:1cr. Why put the motor together, are you 100% sure of the cr and the cams used? also it says u got s300 (is it untuned or wat???) Give us a reply peng.

Cheers.

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yes mate, Im sure about the spec of my engine, because I tightened every bolt and nut by myself under my friend's guidiance, Pistons and con rods a forged and I put everything in with my own hands, machine work has been done at an engineering shop in accordance to the piston's specification, bearing clearances and torque specs to honda's specification.
Initially I had CTR CAMs but later on I found a good package on ebay with SK2 cams, valve springs and titanium retainers for a good price. this is the reason why they're in the engine now.
however, those Pro cams made more torque at low end thus more drivability for everyday driving. I haven't regret about putting them in.
and yes, I am running on S300 and it's been tuned by Adrian on saturday, im pretty happy with the improvement comparing to when it was not tuned. eventhough it doesn's make much top-end power, but over all it's very smooth.

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

Bit aggressive there Benny... Ease up...

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Not at all agressive Adrian. If i was peng, i would of done the usual bolt-ons on a standard ITR motor and make 120-130kw depending if your smart at what bolt-ons you decide. Then from there, if you want more mid range, maybe change the bottom end (2.0l). Or if you dont want to change the bottom end because your in love with the b18c bottom end, add a set of entry level CAMS and get a set of quality ITB's.

At the end of the day, I just hate to see guys wasting all this money for little result. They seems to have no power goal set and budget!

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Originally Posted by Benson

You asked for comments, so i gave some. I didnt want to sound rude, but come on, if you build the engine, you need to finish it properly. You may as well not tune it until everything is done (All at least the intake and exhaust gets done). Clearly you will waste more money getting it retune with a new intake and exhaust system

Then again, its your money. Im just pointing out the most efficient way of doing things. Its up to you if you want to take those constructive advice and use them

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benny, thanks for your advice, but can you justify how your way is the most efficient way of doing things? I would like to learn more.. :D

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Originally Posted by Nepolian

I'd like to see a stock B18C run super imposed over pengspengs. Not a real expert on B18C's but pengpeng's mid range looks alot better than most mildly modded B18's....to me anyway!

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Dyno charts and numbers are nothing if it can't be backed up with MPH down the 1/4mile

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Originally Posted by Benson

Not at all agressive Adrian. If i was peng, i would of done the usual bolt-ons on a standard ITR motor and make 120-130kw depending if your smart at what bolt-ons you decide. Then from there, if you want more mid range, maybe change the bottom end (2.0l). Or if you dont want to change the bottom end because your in love with the b18c bottom end, add a set of entry level CAMS and get a set of quality ITB's.

At the end of the day, I just hate to see guys wasting all this money for little result. They seems to have no power goal set and budget!

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benny, again, not everyone love B20s.

Noone likes the B20vtec because they tend to break easily as many would say. Our B20 on stock sleeves has done over 8 days at the circuit with over 350 dyno pulls all the way to 9400rpm. If its weak it would of broken already!

i think benson's just getting at money well spent is just better than money thrown in without the expected results

now to kick it back on topic

Engine - b18c7
Displacement - stock
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - buddyclub spec3+
Camgear Settings - aem cam gears, both set at 0deg
VTEC X-Over - stock
Gearbox - stock
I/H/E - 3" pipe with blox filter+velo stack, jdm 4-1, mugen twinloop
ECU - chipped p06(iirc) tuned with crome

for comparison sake, check out benson's post earlier in the thread when he puts a b20vtak up against my b18 on the same dyno

http://6ixx.net/misc/DSC_8265.jpg

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Originally Posted by Benson

B20vtec (green) vs B18c7 with cams/i/h/e +tune (pink)

Engine - B16a/B20 Hybrid
Displacement - 2.0l
Bore -84mm
Stroke - 89mm
CR - less than 10:1
Camshafts - Stock
Camgear Settings - Stock
Vtec X Over- 4000 rpm
Gearbox - Stock B16a Ek4
I/H/E - Stock b16a2 IM and T/B, Spoolin Performance headers, custom 2.5inch zorst
ECU - Crome ECU Tuned by Dave

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/IMGP0500.jpg

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Check out the difference!

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Originally Posted by Benson

Since you asked for comments, i reckon its a poor effort. Bad combo of parts and a standard motor with bolt-ons will make more power than your motor with less CR and less agressive cams

I reckon you need to rethink about the engine combo and go from there. This is a good example of more CR and bigger CAMS not working well together. Remember its the combo of parts used!

Hope i didnt sound to mean

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With your CR , these cams should work fine, i think you need to add a good CAI and maybe match port your intake manifold to your header's, to get the best performance from your CR and cams, headwork must be carried out as i belive you head is restricting your flow with this combo.
Also ill look into a metal cat and a better exhaust system with a straight through muffler ( xforce)

With HIGH COMP ENGINES and AGGRESSIVE CAMS you need HEADWORK

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/IMGP0500.jpg

what kind of stein is it on your dyno paper? :eek:

:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p

Bump this shiz up!

Engine - JDM B18CR
Displacement - 1.8
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - stock
Camgear Settings - stock
VTEC X-Over - 4800rpm
Gearbox - B16A + 4.9 Final Drive + Quaife LSD
I/H/E - A-sport ITB's, Buddyclub Headers, Mugen Twinloop muffler w/ T1R B-pipe
ECU - Hondata S200 tuned by Dave + Scott @ Insight Motorsports (legends!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/_DSC7400.jpg

And a comparison of the same engine, but with stock DC2R intake manifold + larger throttle body instead of ITB's.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/_DSC7403.jpg

As you can see, with the ITB's it loses out on power at 8000rpm of about 5kws (can be fixed with cams/gears) but the midrange gains almost 20kw!

The car was OK with the stock ECU, but after the tune it's an absolute animal! Power, more power, more power, more power, then whack into next gear and you just keep on going. :D:D:D:D