car looks hot mate with mugen grill. center cap needs a spray!
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car looks hot mate with mugen grill. center cap needs a spray!
Nice cars. agreed. centre cap needs a spray.
nice shoes guys :)
Gosh, that tyre doesnt have 98 Load rate?Quote:
Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
The picture is only of the right sideQuote:
Originally Posted by I CU2
my left side is the one with stickers and badges lol
Basically drive down the road and the pedestrians see the sticker side and the badges
Anyone else on the road only sees a clean right side.
Split personality
i already got foggies and mugen lipQuote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
hmm i noticed that my driving position was noticeably higher after changing wheelsQuote:
Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
i got the exact same size (rim and tyres) as stock, but it feels higher for some reason
maybe its cause theres more tread?
still scrap like a maniac tho lol
Btw why is ur mugen grill full black? did you paint it? cause its meant to have that silver/white border around the edges?
haha yeah, i could imagine you would continue to scrape with that Mugen Lip of yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
My Mugen grill isn't actually full black, it's actually a carbon fibre colour. It's a replica made by bodykitskingdom.com.au.
I'm planning to buy the genuine some time soon though, a big fan of the silver border haha.
i was saying foggies and lip for eurowannabe not u fury...
Hey guys
Ordered a MY13 black lux - should be here in 4-5 weeks
First Honda..
Ducktail ordered - considering type s skirts and mugen rear lip ( best place to buy and best fit?? )
I am assuming the sides/rear on the MY12/13 etc are the same as the earlier models
What offset is ideal for a flush / legal fit ( + without spacers etc )? Want to run 18s and eibach pro-kit
Considering Work SP1s or something VIP style maybe - euroline dh etc
Thanks ;)
^ no thing as flush and legal haha its one or the other.
Well just not shit looking then .. Lol
Congrats mate :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Vaku
in regards to Skirts and Rear Lip, Check out: http://www.bodykitskingdom.co.uk/mag...da.html?cat=57
these guys are from brisbane so you won't be paying a fortune on shipping :D
Thanks!
Yeah I asked them for a quote as I only want the sides and rear just hope they look good and don't stand out to much that's not the idea
Considering 19" HFP rims looks pretty clean..
Would love something badass offset wise, but insurance...
http://img.tapatalk.com/3aa3afab-f793-c1fd.jpg
I like them rims, very subtle.
That Acura TSX looks fab!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaku
Love the Honda Factory Performance Wheels.
The car looks nice and balanced!
That's what they are! Accord Coupe rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by ope126
Guys running Eibach Pro-kits
to confirm the model number I need is - E10-40-013-01-22 ?
What do I need to fix the rear camber issue (-2.5 as posted earlier)
Dont want to use a cheap / unknown brand - SPC seems to be mentioned a lot? safe to use??
this ?? -- > http://www.spcperformance.com/compon...m&to=AsiAustTo
Thanks guys ;)
Hey no need to worry about camber with eibach :)
If you really want to get a camber kit yes but honestly its fine
so its alright to run like that?Quote:
Originally Posted by yungquan
That looks outside of OEM spec. With eibach kit, you probably want to get a 1 arm camber kit to correct it. J power make one that is about half the price of SPC if you don't mind that either. I have used both and they are exactly the same minus the spc stamping.
so something like this you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
SPC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPC-REAR-CAM...c0898b&vxp=mtr
J Power
http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-11-Accord...-/180674417161
Megan (dif design from the others?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Racing...dc61e6&vxp=mtr
only has + / - 1 degree though?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaku
Yep that adjustment will be enough to get you within oem spec if only on eibach pro kit. Sorry, the J power, while cheaper, isn't half the price when buying the camber arms only.
What I should have said was for the price of the SPC 1 arm kit (1 degree adjustment), you can almost get the 3 arm J power kit (3 degrees adjustment). The 3 arm SPC kit costs around 400 ish.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/08-11-Acc...#ht_1995wt_858
The megan ones are overpriced for whats supposed to be a budget chinese name. SPC (eibach) are cheaper and are a better name.
ok thanks Rudy,
considering id only be going with the eibach I think the 3 degrees kit is overkill and the SPC sounds like it will do the trick!
I acctually perfeer a little bit of camber at rear but thoae spc are looking good.
Id prefer to get it back closer to OEM (with stock rims anyway)
ok so ordered the pro kit and spc arms - $625 all up - not that bad.
would really like to rock these... maybe one day
http://www.workwheelsusa.com/media/w...wheelImage.png
i dont understand why lots of rims have the little studs. to me its just weird.
that's not a bad price , make sure you trim your bump stops :)
where did you get it from usa?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaku
yeah I will go to somewhere who knows what they are doing and hopefully they can sort it all out for me.
springs = $387 (UK - ebay)
SPC camber arms = $237 (USA - ebay)
found those SC2 rims on import monster but they are 18x7.5 - thinking due to the shape of the CU2 19" is needed.. what do you guys think?
Nice .....Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaku
People and boobs as their profile pic..goddammit
Hi,
I'm new here, have just purchased a cu2 'auto'
Was looking at purchasing a injen intake for my car, but couldn't find any reviews regarding them on a cu2.
What are the positives/negatives of having this sort of cai intake?
Is it worth the money, or am I better off fitting a k&n panel filter?
I know it sure does sound good, is there any other benefit.
Eg, better throttle response, better mileage?
Seeing as this is a cai does it mean low end power is not quite as good anymore as to the stock air box.
I've searched YouTube for some clips of this intake on the euro, but couldn't fed anything helpful.
Your input would be much helpful in me making my decision.
Cheers,
Rob
inb4 cerealsly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.b1
CAI don't do nothing cept' for the noise.
[QUOTE=furythree;3316414]how much were the sway bar and intake? from where?
RSB $150 ( Combined postage with Teinn SS and EFDC )
Takeda - ended up buying from amazon as i was buying so much fromm heeltoe and he would price match just the CAI so got it for US$269 delivered amazon. Save US$116 :) Heeltoe was US$385 delivered
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FUR0EM/...C1_cs_sce_dp_1
Quick Q:
I finally got time to put the car in the garage - except the mechanic asked about the camber - i knew i bloody forgot something... With a lowered Tein SS and EFDC which camber or toe kit will i need to factory specs?
Heeltoe is the one i can find cheap enough ( iv overblown my budget now that i forgot the damn camber kits :\) - unless anyone knows cheaper?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/spc-adjus...2-67540.1.html < this one?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/spc-adjus...2-67545.1.html < this one?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/spc-adjus...2-67555.1.html < this one?
Any help on this will be great! Will need to hold off until i know which kit to get... i Heard J Power is cheaper but same specced construction as SPC?
A mate of mine also suggested me to get a J Power camber kit (never heard of them or seen them. I've only seen SPC and possibly others but I don't pay attention)? He said the 8th gen Accord's use it I think and they seem to work fine. Pretty sure it was 6 arms for $200 and throw in a ball point for an extra $50.
I myself need a camber kit too but I don't think I'd need 3 arms. I would probably only need 1 because I need to run camber for my wheels to fit.
But it depends on what you're going for.
How low your car is.
What specs wheels/tyres you're going to run.
If you want/need camber to fit the wheels.
For example, I'm running about -4.5 to -5 (haven't gotten another alignment after my defect yet :S) and I was planning to get a 1 arm to just make both sides even or adjust it a bit more.
Go with the J power imo. Ive used the SPC camber arms and then switched to J power when I lowered more and needed more adjustment. J power is identical to the SPC minus the stamp when compared side by side. SPC 6 arms is around $400 US and J power 6 arms around 200. SPC camber arms pair is 180 on heeltoe, so you might as well spend 20 ish more and just get the J power and have full adjustability.
thnks for the info. i suppose you are talking using the tein ss coilovers and are 1-2 finger height? im not doing crazy low heights as i prefer a spirited drive but at the same time not so low that ill scratch every driveway etc. i just want the rear factory spec camber so no uneven tyre ware... would i need a 1 piece or 3 piece camber kit?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
the Adjustable Rear Toe Arm : http://www.heeltoeauto.com/spc-adjus...2-67555.1.html
will i need the toe arm ? im abit a noob at this as the mechanic questioned me regarding this and i had no idea..
The factory specs I believe allows up to 1.5 deg negative camber in the rear (someone correct me if im wrong..it could be -1 ?). Its hard to say what your current camber is at without a pic or at least some kind of objective measure. In general though, if you are lowered 1.5" or less in the rear, your camber won't be so great that it cant be corrected with just the adjustable camber arm only (which allow 1 degree adjustment).Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
The 3 arm kits, whether SPC or Jpower, include camber, toe, and casters arms and allow up to 3 degrees adjustment in camber.
One can buy each item seperately as well. So, you can start with just the camber arms, and then if you find this doesn't get you within OEM alignment specs, can then buy the toe arm etc later on. But given that the full 6 arm kit (ie 3 arms each side) from J power is so close in price to the 2 arm kit (1 camber arm each side) SPC kit, I suggested to just get that kit, and you will be assured that they will be able to get you into OEM alignment specs. (that also means only paying for one alignment as you dont need to get more arms later on and re align as well as less installation costs).
Also , keep in mind, all those links on heeltoe are for one side only. You need to buy 2 of each. Eg 200 x 2 ( spc 3 arm), 90 x 2 (spc camber arm), etc. Even for the SPC kits, Id recommend ebay as I believe they are a bit cheaper. Heeltoe is good for some things though. Although I cant recall who has cheaper shipping, but at minimum, it would be worth comparing total prices from both places. For J power, you can only get that on ebay though.
Cheers Mate! Made it more clearer then i was making it out to be..yeah i will probably drop it max 1-1.5" so best bet is to buy the three arm set per side rather then risk it and waste more money on postage... have spare set just in case :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
Iv contacted heeltoe on the best price on the spc cambers and combining them into one box saving postage. if that cant be done ill just grab the j power off ebay and haggle there hehe... to bad now ill just wait it out another month and install everything in one go... hopefully mechanic will do it for $200 plus box of beer :)
probably a good idea to get the entire kit yeah, I just went with the camber arm.. luckily enough the eibach springs have a 2 week delay so the ebay company offered me a full refund on shipping as compensation.. so $250 for eibachs.. haha ;)
btw such a pain in the ass to run 19s legally..
only tyres I found that will work (that are a reasonable price) are 245/40/19 kuhmo KU19s ( $225 ea ) that have a 98 load rating (does it matter if its Y or W rating?)
then rims have to be a minimum of + 43 / not staggered (checked the RTA guideline) etc..
[QUOTE=Neilz;3337563]Make sure you get a guy who knows what they are doing. Cos with the edfc kit, there is a bit of metal cutting that needs to be done on the rear wheel as the motor bit that goes on the top of the coilovers will hit the car frame and will damage it. You can contact teins supplier headoffice in your state and they can recommend a qualified installer. Also, if the installer is not a certified tein installer, the installation would not be covered if something goes wrong. Did mine a year ago with the tein ss, edfc kit, rsb, sr intake. Drop the car 15mm front and 10mm rear from what i remember. That is the lowest you can go without a need of a camber kit. Plus the place it did mine does track setups for the v8s and touring car events.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
[QUOTE=Neilz;3337563]How strange! I want to buy a lot of things from amazon.com but never found one that want to ship to Sydney...Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
[QUOTE=denot;3338014]lol yup and $28 shipping cheaper then all the rest and i get it this week~!Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
My latest mod
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/7...ecd64609_b.jpg
Car felt smoother for sure. Would be better if i remove the fog light cover, but i'm already scared of the rain from these 2 days :p
sweet got my takeda within 4 days of buying thru amazon ... they used dhl express!
now with my EDFC ( thanks 1six8) will a tein authorised installer use the oem upper mount kit or should i purchase the edfc upper mount kit - bastard costs US$170!
Have you had any experience with a tein specialist?
Dude you watch the youtube video on a similar install? She apparently covered the pod filter area - reducing the chance of water entering...Quote:
Originally Posted by lovesil
link?? I have only just tape up the holes from the underbody tray (but i can still see water coming in.) Will have to do similar blocking when the weather's fine again as i don't have a garage at home. (can't remove bumper out in the open :()Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
[QUOTE=Neilz;3339966]Did you contact them first regarding shipping to Aus or do everything through Amazon?Quote:
Originally Posted by denot
thats awesome dude> step by step destruction of how to remove bumper?
the instruction's all provided by INJEN's installation manual. But basically,Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
1) remove 8 pin near the top of the grill,
2) remove top grill tray,
3) remove 16 or something pin under the front bumper (8 - 10 under the front bumper and another 8 behind the little rubber strip under the engine tray),
4) remove one screw each from the side at the wheel arches, pull firmly to detach the bumper (do it one side at a time) Make sure you have something soft laying under the bumper when you take it out from both side
Overall, its quite easy. Done it twice now and it only take me less than 10mins to remove the bumper. But putting it back, is the harder part. Best if you have someone else to hold the other side when putting back one side.
PM me when you get the new one. Might buy yours off you?Quote:
Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
Please create/post youtube video? there arent enough tute videos for euro *sadface*Quote:
Originally Posted by lovesil
whats the difference between the takeda and Injen? price looks similar? what was price delivered?Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
let us know if you get any performance difference
im still hesitant about CAI/SRI. its not the money. But concerned about water for CAI and needing a heatshield for SRI
any recommendation of an installer to install a push start/keyless system?
http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html
Sydney area
$349 to avoid using keys?! :/Quote:
Originally Posted by TurBIce
or watch mightycarmods for DIY? lolz
i like shiny things:)
Will come up with something. Will need to pull the bumper apart when the weather's better to make up a mini shield to block water.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
From the way i see it, i just need to put a piece of plastic between the under tray & the filter and also between the chassis & filter. Shouldn't even need to tape it down as its only there to prevent the water from splashing onto the filter and there's already holes in the undertray for any water to leak out.
[QUOTE=denot;3344872]everything through amazon.. go to the takeda link i posted and finish their.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
if theres a certified installer for this i would get this considering if its under $600 installed with unitQuote:
Originally Posted by TurBIce
Haven't done a video on front bumper removal, but found this video for removing the rear bumper, which is quite useful.
Thought i share with all
http://youtu.be/ktNCWcg-KMQ
Could you post up a video of the intake in action.Quote:
Originally Posted by lovesil
In/outside of car, would just give us all an idea of how it would sound.
There's really not many CU2's with injens on YouTube, the ones that are video is terrible can barely hear.
Thanks :)
I think they sound similar to the takeda's. Really mean sound if you rev it up.
Don't think there is?Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
Has anyone fitted the bi-xenon headlamps from a Lux-Navi to a standard CU2?
anyone in sydney used a good mechanic that knows accords for the installing of:
Tein Coilovers with EFDC
Camber Kit
RSB
Takeda CAI
Possible to be done within half a day? My mechanic i was dealing with doesnt know tein EFDC so doesnt want to do the job and has stated better to do the entire thing with one mechanic that knows this car.. but has no referrals lol...
i dont really car where in sydney they are based - as long as they know their shit :) ... and not gonna charge a arm and leg.
Im kinda a guinea pig for this mod as two other mates wanna get this done lmao..
any info appreciated!
The rest are easy, but the EDFC requires a bit of wiring, that'd be your risky part, the rest are reasonably easy.
I would suggest top one at arncliffe..
2nd that. The intake and RSB shouldn't be hard at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by p0c1
Which sway bar did you get? Looking for one myself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Havocwreaker
progress RSB 22mm - no endlinks ( using oem) bloody damn expensive cheapest i could get was $155 + $65 shipping :\
Did you buy it from heal and toe or from the progress site?
heelandtoe but got combined with tein ss etcQuote:
Originally Posted by Havocwreaker
for anyone who has done the injen/takeda cai...
i want to create a secure pod filter ... no water getting anywhere close to the inlet. When its behind the bumper ( mine has the fog lights) i have seen some youtube videos that covers the pod area with plastic and looks more enclosed and seems to prevent water entering that area...
would anyone have any clue where to get this plastic part? or where you to somehow get plastic sheets ( bunnings) and screw on?
My current plan, is to insert a hard plastic and place it in between the under body tray and the filter. Don't even need to screw on for my instance as it would hold itself by the inner wheel arches/filter/underbody tray. The main point is just to prevent any splashing of water from underneath. As long as it prevents water from directly splashing onto the filter, it will be fine as water will leak out by itself. Also, because i don't have fog light, i'm not too worried about water from the front. However, i might need to make a 2 fold plastic as there's also a pretty big hole in between the filter and our gearbox (the hole's used to be where the air resonator pipe goes)Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilz
The hard plastic i'm gonna be using, is one of those hard plastic dinner table mat that one should be able to get off a $2 shop.
For your case, i think you just need to make it a 3 fold.......hope what i say makes sense??
All that effort.... Why not just get a icebox instead?
Too much prob with the cu2 icebox. One of them is the rattling noise because the box is made of thin carbon fibreQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I think its pretty obvious that its bad news if the intake is flooded with a lot if water, but does it really matter if a little goes in? It seems a lot of work to completely isolate the filter.
I think its really up to individual. Technically, little bit of water wouldn't bother it that much as the CAI filter's oil based (at least my injen is) which will block off some water when being splashed. But its just for a piece of mind. For my method, i don't even think i need to take off the bumper as i should be able to slide it in by some of the underbody tray clipsQuote:
Originally Posted by Havocwreaker
so whats the difference between takeda and injen....
one has 5 letters and the other has 6Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
smart ass lol
would you guys consider these "alternatives"?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270683195009 - CAI 79.99+65 ship
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2011-Ac...-/220872389885 - SRI with heat shield! 109+35$ ship
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-Acura-...r-/22100693758 -SRI looks dodgy $78.99 + $75 ship
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-Acura-...-/400272364727 - CAI looks ok $99.95+60 ship
Is HPS a known brand?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPS-Short-Ra...-/370546628585 - SRI $209.99+$60
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Takeda-Cold-...-/200590679714 $249.98+$65 - Takeda
the takeda on Amazon is $251.80 plus Shipping & Handling: $27.40 so cheap!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INJEN-COLD-A...-/280570422118 - $245.00 + $82.15 - Injen
funny how takeda and injen are probably same packaging size but ppl wanna charge more for shipping
with the elcheapo ones, is it worth buying one and slapping on a K&N pod
on my last year of warranty so looking to get one (thats why im asking about the difference between takeda and injen)
^^^ amazon has special on for injen and takada