What do you hate about the Euro?

I love the Japan.

The problem with Kia optima at the moment is....


You can't get one... It's looking at having with 3 engine types.
Direct injection petrol. 140kw
R-series turbo diesel. 132kw (in development... more power than the Honda diesel in the euro)
Turbo direct injection petrol. 204kw

Australia only has 1000 this year and its not improving since the factory can't keep up with demands from North America...


Oh the best thing with optima... An auto tranny with a planatory gearset... Means it won't shite itself like the honda-matic

They guy from the cars guide said ford/kia do not even have enough diesel engines for demand. Which sucks for people waiting on the new Ford Territory Diesel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

The problem with Kia optima at the moment is....


You can't get one... It's looking at having with 3 engine types.
Direct injection petrol. 140kw
R-series turbo diesel. 132kw (in development... more power than the Honda diesel in the euro)
Turbo direct injection petrol. 204kw

Australia only has 1000 this year and its not improving since the factory can't keep up with demands from North America...


Oh the best thing with optima... An auto tranny with a planatory gearset... Means it won't shite itself like the honda-matic

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Turbos & diesels wont come to Australia (confirmed) Hybrid maybe end of next year...

regarding the tranny, you cant change the oil at all on optima (confirmed by KIA mechanic/service dept) so if anything happened to it you'll need to replace the whole thing...

As much as I tempted to buy the optima, if Euro comes with the same specs and even a bit higher price, I'll go with Euro :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by denot

Turbos & diesels wont come to Australia (confirmed) Hybrid maybe end of next year...

regarding the tranny, you cant change the oil at all on optima (confirmed by KIA mechanic/service dept) so if anything happened to it you'll need to replace the whole thing...

As much as I tempted to buy the optima, if Euro comes with the same specs and even a bit higher price, I'll go with Euro :p

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You CAN change the tranny fluid, damn it how many times do I have to tell people that lol.. I'll find the instructions for you and upload to the site.

Tell the damn dealer to read their manual again.


Edit, got it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/113557-lifetime-transmission-fluid.html#post835564

DESCRIPTION:
The 2010 Tucson, 2010 Santa Fe and 2011 Sonata utilize a new electronically controlled 6-speed automatic transmission.

The ATF level can be checked by the following procedure:

NOTE: Use only ATF meeting the SP-IV specification approved by Hyundai.

DO NOT use SP-III or other ATF which may result in degradation of shift
quality or transaxle durability.

Hyundai SPH-IV SP-IV Automatic Transmission Fluid 00232-19045

ATF LEVEL INSPECTION:
1. If the ATF has been completely drained, add approximately 5 quarts of SPH-IV ATF.

2. Attach a GDS and select vehicle and “A/T” menu, Current Data and “Oil Temperature Sensor”.

3. Drive the vehicle until the fluid temperature is at the low end of the range of
122~140°F (50~60°C).

4. Step on the brake and then shift into “R”, “N” and “D” and back, pausing 2~3 seconds in each range. Repeat
two times.

5. Move the shift lever to P, leave the engine running and lift the vehicle on a hoist.

6. Remove the splash shield under the transmission.

7. Remove the oil level plug. The oil level is correct if ATF flows out in a thin oil stream. If no oil flow occurs,
go to Step 8.

8. If no oil flow occurs, add SPH-IV ATF through the oil level hole until oil flows out in a thin oil stream.

NOTE: Use a suction gun or equivalent to add ATF. A suction gun is available from:

• Snap-On Tools - YA745A
• MAC Tools - GS19HD

9. Reinstall the overflow plug and torque to specification. Torque: 25~32 lb-ft (3.5~4.5 kgf.m)

ALTERNATE ATF FILL PROCEDURE:

10. If a suction gun or equivalent is not available, locate the vent eyebolt on top of the transmission oil pan near
the battery.

11. Remove the eyebolt and add ATF through the hole. Reinstall the eyebolt and torque to specification.
Torque: 25~29 lb-ft (4.0~4.5 kgf.m)

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^^^ really show us that the low number of Optima here caused them confusion as well

Quote:

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Originally Posted by denot

^^^ really show us that the low number of Optima here caused them confusion as well

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It says on their f&&king service manual auto fluid should be changed in 50k under severe driving conditions.

Don't no body read that shit no more? :-p

Also, the standard of fluid Kia use (SPH-IV, or SP-IV). Make the ATF-z1 we use and the dexen III that ford/holden look like sewer water.

Ita like comparing castrol GTX with Motul 300V... There is no comparison.

Hold up......there is fluid in the transmission........?

As per original topic

I hate my euro,

the thing whines, hisses, takes two kinds of fuel and exhaust smells like shit all the time........

i dnt like the fwd lmao

I test drove the new Optima last Monday - 62kms, in my opinion it is not in the class of the series 1 CU2, so I have ordered an MY12 CU2. Sure Kia has improved out of sight, but it is still not up with the Euro or 6. (my opinion)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shmivic

As per original topic

I hate my euro,

the thing whines, hisses, takes two kinds of fuel and exhaust smells like shit all the time........

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poor tune?