yeh but which one to geeeettt
while im at it i think i need to replace my shocks. my tein springs have probably killed them
might get a coilover kit? lool soo much money
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yeh but which one to geeeettt
while im at it i think i need to replace my shocks. my tein springs have probably killed them
might get a coilover kit? lool soo much money
should;ve thought about that before you got the springs by itself lolQuote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Low spring = dead OEM shock sooner or later
cost of springs over all is more like:
new spring $$$ + Labor to install $$$ + New Shocks (eventually) $$$ + Labor to install (again)$$$
a coilover is like...
New Coilover $$$$ + Labor to install $$$...
Workout about the same cost considering how much labor charge in Australia
well i get my family friend to do it so its not too bad
i cud always get coilovers and sell springs?
do the math lolQuote:
Originally Posted by furythree
$300 springs (or more) + $600 Shocks = about the same price as a set of Tein Street Basic Coils.
*shrugs*
Tein coils for $950 - sell used tein ss springs for about $150-$200? = $750 - $800 + ability to raise ride height a little (scraping too much)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
vs new shocks $600 + scrape scrape lol
Lol if you done your math earlier you wouldnt need to sell the springs lol!!Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
you're always looking for ways to save the most money, but never consider long term costs and quality. All your purchases the same. This time do it right man and get at least Tein or BC.
I only have a Takeda SRI. Do you think one of those cheapo eBay CAI pipes will fit onto my Takeda SRI? :\ Just seeing if I can convert to CAI cause I don't have the Takeda CAI pipe.....
how come? normally they come as one kit?Quote:
Originally Posted by euRo_noob
Also, would this fit and help the filter to avoid water?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150787381...84.m1423.l2649
I don't know.. I was just sold only the SRI. Rip off >:[Quote:
Originally Posted by denot
But yeah, maybe I should just save up for a CAI. How much is shipping on Amazon? =o
Quote:
Originally Posted by euRo_noob
Order Summary
Amazon Currency Converter is Enabled. (Learn More)
Items: AUD 246.04
Shipping & Handling: AUD 26.55
Total Before Tax: AUD 272.59
Estimated Tax To Be Collected: AUD 0.00
Order Total: AUD 272.59
fking with in $50 of my icebox!!!!
Just installed my Injen, but will be removing it as of tomorrow.
Just not what I expected.
So if anyone is interested In purchasing pm me.
Cheers
Rob
care of elaborate?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.b1
ICU2's noob questions again,
Will I have to notify insurance about CAI (will premiums increase :o)?
What are the chances of hydrolocking in heavy rain?
P.S
Can someone please upload a sound clip of their CAI :)
Purchased it on impluse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Not needed anymore.
If anyone interested, willing to sell cheap :)
Cheers
Plenty of vids on youtube on CU2's with CAI,Quote:
Originally Posted by I CU2
You only get hydrolocking if your filter is completely submerged.. (you could always get a injen water cover thingy for the filter)
INsurance wise, well you should tell them for a small ish increase in premium (...icebox = stock so they cant tell... a shiny ass tube... they CAN tell lol)
well to be fairQuote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
i havent had any problems with anything ive bought so far. and the teins i have arent really a problem its mostly my driveway which has a stupid fkn gate stopper protruding
i go new tyres with more tread and now it clears it fine. I just thought since im going to change shocks ANYWAY, might as well get coils...but im thinking long term how long im gunna keep the car, cause its not like it increases the cars value that much to have coils
Lol i interpretted that as "i got a cai it was not as i expected....it makes the car slower [omitted]"Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.b1
How much is the icebox? i thought there was a downside to the icebox cause there was an issue with it being made of thin carbon fibreQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I mean not increasing the value of the car itseslf , but buying wisely, not necessarily based on lowest price possible at time of purchase. Your stock shocks now need replacing because you put springs on stock shocks instead of getting coilovers. That kind of stuff. Now you've got to buy new shocks , or coilovers , pay for installation again, and alignment etc. Would have been cheaper/less hassle to 'do it right' in the first place. That's all Im sayingQuote:
Originally Posted by furythree
And I remember you bought that cheap replica lip kit from china to save money and it didnt fit and you couldnt use it (could be thinking of someone else?). I just hope those advan replica wheels you got dont crack if you ever go over a curb.
i agree with the. lowered car on stock shocks is a bad ideaQuote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
When it comes to cold air intakes. I believe Airbox systems and Short Ram intake with heat shields are the best for overall power and response.
The type that has the pod filter in the wheel arch (Injen CAI for example) tends to shift the power curve to the peak RPM area and greatly increases the chance of hydrolocking the car since it's much closer to the ground.
totally agree with u broQuote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
just that at the time i was a Poor unistudent *sadface*
not a problem now
and with the kit, i THOUGHT i had an issue with fitament, turned out to be just natural flex of the plastics, my installer was good and fit it with no problems
and yeh im concerned about the advans but lately i havent been driving that much and other ppl whove bought them seem to have no issues.
anyway, with the takeda going for <$300usd now. im hard pressed to think of reasons why not to get them, you can always pick up a heat shield for the SRI for $50 off ebay as well.
how much are the iceboxes? and nobody knows about the disadvantages of the iceboxes? heard there was rattling or something
Icebox for CU2 is a bit iffy since the CF is really thin.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
For CL9 no problem (except when trying to fit it lol)
The fake advan you got are probably outta the same factory as the real thing... Just sayin.
If the 'made in japan' stamp on the real Advan is just for kicks and they are actually produced in the same factory in China, what point are you trying to make? Or did you mean that the factory in Japan used by Yokohama also make replicas and export them to China? Sorry for the confusion!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Thats more for Enkei's Sparco, Buddyclub etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
Actually... Im pretty sure ADVAN's are made by enkei...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Im still not sure what point you were trying to originally make by saying they were probably made in the same factory, which I highly doubt.
All I'm saying is that don't take anything at face value.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
Cheap =\= bad
Expansive =\= good and vice versa.
Besides, iirc a lot of multi piece wheels are forged in Japan but assembled in China, however because the majority of the manufacturing cost is from Japan its still considered "Made in Japan"
Just because it's stamped with made in Japan doesn't meant is necessarily made there, I distinctively remember the buddy clubs "official" reseller in Canada was selling knock offs.
Same as a J's racing reseller in the states selling knock off J's exhaust (AJ racing iirc)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I see what you mean. Thanks for clarifying.
Affordable wheels can definitely be of good quality (as with many enkei wheels), and expensive wheels can be crap quality (eg ADV1). Fully agree with you there. Im not even an Advan wheel fan for the record...almost did a double take when found out the RS were 4k and cast. Im not saying they are good value for money at all.
I've got nothing against where a wheel is made but rather the quality and testing that goes into it, none of which occur with the vast majority of replica wheels. The real advan wheels are used on many time attack cars in Jap for a reason. Vicroads actually require wheels to meet certain international strength standards to even be legal. I can almost guarantee this advan replica isn't made using the same casting process, with the same quality control, and definitely not certified to JWL/VIA , SAE or any international standards. Put them on the scale and it will be a lot heavier too. This would still apply even if they were made in the same factory as the replica.
Those wheels made in Japan but assembled in china would still adhere to the quality control and manufacturing techniques specified by the Japanese parent company and then JWL certified in order to be sold in Japan.
can you elaborate on the iffy ness? does it work? im srsly thinking icebox over sri w/heatshieldQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
my advans are definitely replicas. theyre gravity cast which is the least best way of creating wheels
The icebox is double the price of injen.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Because carbon fibre, there's reports of the ct-e icebox being a bit filmsy.
hmm so its better and cheaper to get an SRI with heatshield then? i really dun wanna worry about hyrdo lock esp with winter coming so i think SRI shud be fine
The injen CAI can be converted to SRI if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
And you could buy An injen hydroshield. For the CAI
And rattling... here's the clip:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-I42h...ature=youtu.beQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Lolololololol @ slow motionQuote:
Originally Posted by denot
They really should've added a layer of resin inside as reinforcement.
Holy moly! that is some major wobbleQuote:
Originally Posted by denot
but since its real CF its not like its gunna break tho. but i assume it makes ridiculous noise during driving
but looks like Injen SRI is the way to go! are SRI illegal in NSW?
I thought it has been said a lot of times here fury... it is as long as you can provide the heat shield and probably engineer certificateQuote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Has anyone here placed order with heeltoe on the Progress RSB and been told theres 3-4 week wait?
just waiting for them to be put on a container and sent (Yahoo Japan)
AME Shallen WX - polished
19x8 +43
http://i.imgur.com/82iVK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/y6gNT.jpg
ordered McGard Splinedrive's in black to go with them.
lets hope they clear the front brakes/calipers.. gamble..
Nice choice of rims. Something different.
Thanks, yeah I was going for something a bit unusual / VIPish
whats your opinion on this guys
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2y...&feature=g-u-u
I think it proves that all it does is change the sound, which is still worth it in most cases lol.
Quite surprised at the pod filter one in the last video where even the k&n drop in filter did not perform as well as a new stock filter
Its flawed testing (as per usual for MCM, where its mainly for entertainment than any real reference).Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
They didn't take into consideration about the need for ECU to adapt. Also, peak HP doesn't mean anything in terms of modding the car. Its also got to do with the mid range increase (hp/torque) and etc.
thats what i thought re the ecu
if we install a CAI do we need to flash ecu or does it learn by itself?
most of the gains are mid range increases? how would you test that?
Question 1: no it'll learnQuote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Question 2: dyno, but as usual a long tube CAI you'll gain mid and top range, not so much lower end.
What about the shorter mode SRI? Is it better for lower end or high?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
sorry guys off topic - does top one auto ever answer there phone? i rang sat ( 7 times no answer - maybe busy so left it after 11am) then i tried todayu 4 times and no answer... anyone dealt with them before?
All i need is a quote on install for my items :\
Top One normally answer their phone. I have no problem with them. You sure you have the right number?
I've rang them yesterday around 2pm to book my car for service and they pick up
spoke with DeeDee? will be getting this done in a month or less :)Quote:
Originally Posted by denot
Just a heads up Neilz, we're not allowed to ask for prices/quotes in forums....
Really?!?!?!?!
Yep, my thread was closed a while back due to this...
Was it cus you were a newcomer
Nope, the reason was no asking quote/price... Do your own research...
Moving on.... :)
but you can ask others what their experience was in pricing
:O loophole
anyway
i washed my car for 5 hours over the weekend
washed, vacuumed, clay bar'd, waxed, buffed and now its so damn smooth and shiny i need wear sunglasses while i use the bonnet as a slippery slide
then on sunday i decided to fix up all my dings from kerb rashes and idiots in car parks.
bought some paint from autobarn, primer filler and clear coat
went to work on the side skirts where the most damage was, and i have to say it turned out pretty amazing
since that went so well, i decided to do my doors....then got overzealous and sprayed too thick a layer so now i have this massive frigging bulge instead of a chipped indent -_-
and i ran out of paint as well. sighs
need to sand it down and start again!
Pics or it didn't happen
^ pics or lies ;)
EDIT: Beaten by LATE ._.
Ouch.
Double ouch!Quote:
Originally Posted by I CU2
nice done furry, btw when are we going to have CU2 meet in Sydney?
What so you show up in a cx9? Just for lolsQuote:
Originally Posted by denot
hahahahahhahahahahhaQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
omg lols.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
cu2 meet +1
Hmmm probably... since my old CU2 is in a "crapy" condition atm. :p Oh, and I probably change all my mazda badge to Honda and my CX9 badge to Accord Euro :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
lol itll be like the bmwm3stievotrd carQuote:
Originally Posted by denot
lol! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
Or put a H in the Mazda oval.
Honzda.
Nah, I probably going to put a big sticker on each sides of the car saying "Trust me, this car is an Accord Euro!"Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
and have the troll face next to itQuote:
Originally Posted by denot
LOL yeap one of those "you made, bro?" face :pQuote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
+2 for cu2 meetQuote:
Originally Posted by nxn75u
gah
so i sanded down the paintjob yesterday
cudnt get it smooth and cbfed going out to get 500 grit sandpaper
ended up going from a 4cm graze to a 30cmx20cm area where i sanded the edges of the little "squared off" area.
*facepalm*
so luckily that was mostly swirl marks
i repsrayed the whole area and JUST ran out of paint.
i revisited the 3 points of the side skirts where i did it "right"
peeled off the newspaper to find that the "fixed" section was too thick, so basically the paintwork with clearcoat are PERFECT and silky smooth, but i bloody sprayed on too many layers so it didnt blend in LOL
so u can see random triangle sections near the corners haha
oh well i cbfed fixing them. I tried to smooth out the edges but didnt work and only made it worse cause the primer started to show through. i squeezed the can out of its last drop of paint and covered those up
i will have to smooth out everything and add clear coat tomorrow.
lesson learnt....get it done professionally, or be fkn patient! i got impatient and sprayed a thick dripping layer on, instead of light coats.
just picked her up yesterday, pro kits already in! ;)
happy I decided to go with the skirts/rear aero/ducktail.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...65741023_n.jpg
just waiting on the rims now.
Vaku if you want to sell your stock rims let me know.
That silver euro is niiiiiiiiice. Lol
That looks nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaku
did the full interior LED bulb swap, so much better......
not sure about the rear number plates - do you need to take off the carpet etc?? looks like its a pain to do?
Update - cant get the drivers side Parker back in - is there some
Tactic I'm missing it seems
Impossible.. Shit!!
Edit never mind that was easy just take reservoir tank up haha!!!
Rear number plate change is easy peasy..
Check your manual.. You just need to undo 4-5 plastic screws then change the bulbs..
Yep, number plates are really easy to do. You should have no trouble doing it as even I was able to and I was/am new to DIY stuff. Pretty much just get a flat head screw driver, open your boot so you can see the bottom of the boot easier, go to the corner of the plastic bit, ply that out and you'll be able to reach the bulbs from there.
ok great il do it tomorrow afternoon, such a simple mod to do that looks pretty amazing at night I gotta say!