wrote it off!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...92257277_n.jpg
well the chick behind me did haha
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wrote it off!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...92257277_n.jpg
well the chick behind me did haha
nooo!Quote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
problem is what to buy next..
They're a good package man, boy racer styling, sunroof luxuries and loud as hell vtec cross over just for kicks!! I've seen some stock ones go for quite cheap too. And at the end of the day no matter how many people tell you K series is the future, B series is still lots of fun and very affordable.Quote:
Originally Posted by FAITHLESS
M8!!! Are you ok? That hit looks nasty!Quote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
I've seen some thrashed ones too.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
yeah, had 3 mates in the car also, everyone is okay thank god, especially the girl who hit into me, she's 8 months pregnant but she's 100% okay. mates in back got taken to hospital in stretchers for whiplash and stiffness but they're okay now, got back from one of their houses after a bbq not too long aog haha
Yeah I'm down for B series. I love my EK1 and that's coming from an R33 GTS-T. It just needs more power. EK4 looks awesome inside and out too so I think it's my choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
VERY worried about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
man that would have been a pretty big shock from the back. all getting fixed though?Quote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
insurer and panel beaters said it's a write off.. $5k, so im happy haha
I got 20k for mineQuote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
Cool. What u gonna get?
Ay make sure you and your mates claim the shit out of the compulsory third party insurance for personal injury!! Coz every year we're made to pay that shit to the stupid government you might as well make the most of it since you were actually in a car accident.Quote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
dunno yet, not sure what i want.. something nice is good hahaha
yeah not gonna have to pay for towing, ambulance, service and/or medical care
As long as it's Honda I approve :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
Best way to check a motors condition is to do a compression test upon inspection, those figures don't lie. A car can have been driven hard but also have a very through/strict maintenance history, vs a car which has never seen wide open throttle but owner neglects to service it on time...Quote:
Originally Posted by FAITHLESS
If your unsure always bring someone experienced with you when going to see the car of ask the seller of you can bring the car to a mechanic you can trust
Claim physio so you can go get a massage every week! Living the life!Quote:
Originally Posted by kyzz
Thats a bit narrowminded :)Quote:
Originally Posted by FAITHLESS
Yeah I know how to check a car. It's just the distance I have to travel to check anything I want. If it's a shit car, I'm kinda stuck with trying to find another one while Im there or just going home. I'm that close to moving to Sydney or Melbourne, just need to gather the money and motivation to quit job etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
@ EKVTIR-T you know you feel the same way :D
Oh yeah keep forgetting you're in the middle of no where, is current job paying well to stay where you are?Quote:
Originally Posted by FAITHLESS
Not really. $624 to $750 a week is shit for your Sydney pay I'd guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
No I really dont. I mean I think honda are some of the best engineered cars and performing motors in their own right but there are many many others besides them.Quote:
Originally Posted by FAITHLESS
Toyota/Lexus for example and certain german cars.
I do agree. I just like to see people stay with honda. I'm about to buy a toyota corolla myself for a restore/resell project but I'd be buying a Honda if it was as easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...990636032-1&zw
Cleaned out the interior of my ek. Had about 3 months worth of rubbish, clothes and crap in there. Mmm no more rattling
Polished my EK on Saturday, even managed to buff out a few scratches on it (still visible, but only in the right light). Very very happy with the outcome. Topped up oil & coolant. Oil was down to just over half since last service (3,700kms ago), coolant had dropped pretty far, was just a bit above 'low' level. No leaks as far as I can tell, will be keeping an eye on it.
Was going to DIY CTR headlights, but ended up getting lazy after a pretty shit week of work. Next weekend for sure. Driver side door has also started to rattle a bit again, so will be pulling it off again. Fortunately it's fairly hard to notice, the new twin loop drowns out most noises (tyre road noise, loose hatch brake light cover & the weird squelchy, crunching noise my rear wheels/suspension make - still havent gotten around to trying lithium grease spray on the control arms etc, I really should.)
Attachment 21938
Edit: Added photo of freshly polished EK ;)
^ Nice work, looking good :thumbsup:
Wow reflective paint!
rims don't suit car either, meshies go better on older models.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
So much interest in how my car looks I just don't know anymore...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
yeah, too much going on, I prefer the cleaner basic look.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
My baby EK1 and my mates Intergra at tafe lol
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...IMG_2674-1.jpg
What did you do to your ek today?Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicRacer13
Drove it to tafe and parked it next to my mates integra for a photo.
That is what you did with your ek today man
hey, need some opinions here and why......should l, or should l not paint my rims matte sky blue, it'll look something similar to this, need to know as l will be painting them this weekend, or should l leave them black? (also not great at photoshop)
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/2641/dsc8573q.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/6179/dsc8575k.jpg
Leave them black imo
Def stands out but you'll prob get sick of it in a matter of weeks
l do want them to stand out, but if l don't like them after awhile l can peel the paint offQuote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
pink stands out the most.Quote:
Originally Posted by Niko
hey niko can u get me those paint in takata green?
Won't the paint underneath still be affected though?Quote:
Originally Posted by Niko
probs got sent to the dead car yard
got my official written off notifcation
fak u guise
Today may be the last day of ANG-78A's appearance.
Unfortunately i got defected today (Yellow Label), 2nd time being defected. As you all may say come back bigger and better, but in the previous defect i have returned bigger and better but not anymore.
I am finished with my Ek and today was the decision maker to sell off my ek.
My defects were:
-Under 100mm from the ground
-Tyres too wide? i think they meant wheels too wide.
-Too much poke and camber
-Exposed pod filter
-B-C pillar brace, not safe for seatbelt
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...82786037_n.jpg
ssshhhhhhiiiiiiiieeeeeeeettttttttttttttttttttttttt ttttttttttttttttt
badluck mate.
whats next?
EG, same theme?Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedVtec
VW or Evo
lol
Definatly Stance again, it will be with a subaru this timeQuote:
Originally Posted by NeedVtec
Nah no more hondas lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Wrong! Subaru!Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Curious, what happens when you get defected 3 times?
Does it matter if its 3 of any defects or 3 major defects (yellow?) ?
All part of the stance look cant handle it dont do it
welcome to URABUS :), i sold my EM1 for a SubaruQuote:
Originally Posted by tsol0811
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperJDM.
i sold my EG for a SUBARU tooooooo
=D
URABUS team
Awww everyone going to the dark side, guess if you can't beat em,just buy one lol
Well, for me, I got new coilovers (tein monoflex) and new wheels enkei racing s in 16x8 +32 all round and stretched 195/50-16
Here are some pektures of its, still need to work on front guards and lower the car a tad moarrrr
My rear left is knocking abit, I tightened my rear endlink and it was fine for a few days and is its back!
I'm thinking it's the shaft on coilover or maybe just the rubber mount on top of spring ( as oneside has and one doesnt)
Wheels aNd coilovers costed me under 1k, which was a bargain!
Just bedded in new pads for the race car while D3 was installing.
who ever is goin to winton on the 19th and 20th ill c u there.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0860.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0883.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0874.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0875.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0878.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0879.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0880.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...IMG_0881-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...IMG_0882-1.jpg
^^^^^tuff..........
looks like a completly diferent car....
looks great just needs oem lip
http://i.imgur.com/BIgUR.jpg
for $30
Also.. spoon accord, where did you get all that stuff so cheap? :S .......
so jelly! an dirt cheap!Quote:
Originally Posted by eeko
ebay and firesport.com + bargain skills
yo LAN yeh i'm looking for one, bit hard to come by
thanks all for support and comments
Took the EK to get a Wheel Alignment.
few scratches.. but for $30 im not complaining lols .. better than none :DQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Found out that my previous 'fix' for my rattling driver side door lock wasn't such a good fix. Not sure if it's something to do with the change in weather (bought the car this summer, it's obviously now winter, been freezing cold & pissing down in Adelaide), but it started with the passenger side door not unlocking when I used the remote central locking. That eventually seemed to have fixed it self for a few weeks, then decided it no longer wanted to LOCK. (Went from not unlocking, to not locking)
And now, just last night, I discovered that the driver side door won't unlock anymore either. The inside lock is VERY stiff & is actually a bit of a strain to flip it open/closed by hand.. So, it looks like i'll be reopening my door & possibly taking out the foam I put in there to stop the rattling.. Seems I have to choose between an annoying rattly door lock or not being able to get in my car, lol.
pack grease at the points where your lock rods connect. If you dont know what i mean i might be able to find some pics from when i deadened my doors.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
I know what you mean by the points where the lock rods connect. The rods all connect to small, white, plastic 'tabs' that rotate back and forth when you lock/unlock the doors, moving the rods etc. Not sure what you mean about packing grease though. I was gonna try some RP7 or the Lithium Grease Spray I bought ages ago but never ended up using, before removing the foam. Removal of the foam was gonna be my last option as the rattling really, really got to me and almost made me wish I never bought the car lolQuote:
Originally Posted by TbM
i used htb grease cause i had a tub sittin round from doing mates wheel bearings, you just dip your finger in and put a big glob of grease at the point the lock rod connects, becausae its so thick it will make it hard for the rods to vibrate where they connect which is where the problems coming from.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
You put a bit here
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled-5.jpg
and pack heaps around this bit
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled-4.jpg
Ah I see now! So, you reckon, remove the foam & pack grease on those points? Will definitely give it a shot on the weekend. :)
hard to say without seeing what you have done but if you have used foam to stop them vibrating then there is a good chance you have created extra resistance for the lock to open and close which would explain your problem, using grease on the point adds very very minimal resistance to the open and closeing but restricts the connections ability to vibrate.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
Ive got solid polyurthane hasport mounts on my car and just using grease stopped mine rattleing.
those points can get worn over time as well.
nothing can help this.
ever tried packing a thick grease like htb or all purpose on the connecting points?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Yeah, I would definitely say that the foam has created resistance, but that was part of the idea and it seems to have created a bit too much resistance now. The biggest problem with my lock is not really the vibrating, but the fact that the rod connected to the 'switch' (the thing you press down/flip out to lock/unlock the door) doesn't hold the switch too well, the switch is given too much leverage to move on it's own around the rod. I think that's where I'll have to pack the most grease, try and get plenty in between the 'loop' of the switch and the rod that holds it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM
Regardless, I'll give this a shot, the grease is fairly inexpensive. I also just had the idea of stuffing a ton of blu-tac in/around it.. If all else fails I might just go see if I can find an EK at the wreckers & steal it's switch, or even the whole rod & switch.
Cheers for the ideas anyway, will experiment this weekend. :)
May also get around to doing DIY CTR headlights & lubing up my lower control arm pivot points to stop the squeaking.
if its really worn you could wrap the end of the lock rod in a small ammount of electrical tape to reduce the gap, then pack grease around it, i probably wouldnt use blutac as thats quite hard and sticky so might just run into the same problem again, also if the switch moves around easily you can put grease behind it on the point it mounts to make it not wobble around so easily, i did this on my passenger door as the switch would vibrate at certain rpm or bass hits and it has stopped it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
the white plastic where it clips to the door, moves a few mm in each direction, don't think htb grease will help.Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM
Good ideas also. Will experiment until I find something that works & post here over the weekend. Cheers man.Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled-4.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
You talking about that bit? my passenger side one was pretty fuked, packed htb behind it and coverd the front and doesnt vibrate now. Give it a shot if yours is vibrating, im sure you would have some htb or all pourpose grease around bau.
no problem i hope it helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
Tips on where to buy said grease? If theres any specific one i should look for? Ive got rattles coming from both doors now on my hatch --'
auto store?Quote:
Originally Posted by eeko
HTB = high temperature bearing
or just general purpose grease.
Naice one bau.
Your just trying to restrict the rod from vibrating at the connecting points so any fairly thick grease should work. i just used htb cause i had a tub laying round.
Basically any thick grease.. will buy tomorrow and see how i go. Cheer's
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...23#Description
thats the one i used but anything similar should work