Is that on here or another site bro?Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Printable View
Is that on here or another site bro?Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
dacrew here we go again!!!
good work!Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Hey guys, just a quick question, im in the process of putting a b18c2 into my DA. Im using innovative mounts for it. My problem is, the engine is now sitting too far forward, so when I turn the wheels full lock, the driveshaft hits on the fork on the base of the strut. Has anyone had this issue before with these mounts? Im running DC shocks and forks already on the car. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
How much is it hitting? The DC strut is thicker and the fork has a narrower (sp?) arch although the difference is small, I suspect this may be causing the issue and not the mounts.
Maybe try putting some standard suspension on ther and see if this solves the problem
hey mooshie that exhaust is good, maybe a bit louder but does the job so cheers for that! going to regency tomorrow
hmmm, weird...
Steve runs dc2 coilovers in his car and doesn't have a problem..
Yeah gonna try stock fronts tomorrow, urgh cant get kyb agx fof DA, gonna have to buy new struts again, this build suuucks! Thanks for your help guys!
True story :PQuote:
Originally Posted by espionage85
is ur front engine mount bolted up?
if it is ur engine shud be in same position
idk why it wud be sittin forward, even with hasport mounts
Its all bolted in. I think its more to do with the gearbox, it does sit differently. Im running dc2 inner cv's now as well, lots of things have to be changed as part of this swap. Hopefully the da suspension works and ill just have to buy ne front shocks. So if anyone wants a pair of front kyb agx with forks that are about 500km old let me know!
defected again for not having the right engineers report/certificate for coilovers :( i hate transport sa. anyone know how to get around this problem other then spending 600+ on real engineers cert (no thanks) or going back to stock (nooooo)
Glad the exhaust could help you out. Did you finish up putting a flange on there or just welding straight up?
Could have told you coilovers will not get through regency and unfortunately there is no way around it other than welding a stop on there so they can't go below legal height.
you could always just swap in the standard suspension to go over the pits then swap it out again
Ash, do you have the right mount for the year? I believe gearbox mount designs changed slightly with the facelift and later boxes.
Can you post a photo of exactly where it is rubbing? I am struggling to see how it could actually be touching the bottom of the strut.
Possibly you could get longer bolts and shim the mount above the gearbox to sit it lower?
got the shop to weld it since i don't have the tools/time/knowledge. but thanks again i really appreciate it, owe you one.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
i would just swap them out but again i don't have enough time a the moment. Is there another way to make them unadjustable which is more undo-able haha? Is it a difficult job to replace the stock suspension? i have never done it. school holidays in a week so i will have time then to give it a shot, keen to learn!
its a pretty easy job man to replace sussy,
for the front The top 2 14mm nuts on the strut (just loosen for now)
then at bottom of the fork theres a big bolt 17mm, Bolt and nut, take that off(prob have to hammer out a lil)
then the 14mm bolt that goes through the fork take that off, drop the fork off
idk if u brake lines are still connected cuz of the coil overs, but disconnect them first if they are.
then just completely remove both nuts at top, coilover is now out
for back
same 2 14mm bolts, at top, there under the rear speakers, so i remove the grill, the speaker then use a long extention to get to em. just loosen
take off bolt for rear sway(this allows lca to move) 12mm i believe
then where the lca connects to the hub, remove that bolt eh 14mm or 17mm dont remember
putt that out push lca down, then remove top 14mm bolts completely and it shud drop
to install again ull need to jack underneath the lca to help u push it up, its a lil lame to adjust holes but ull get there
enjoy :)
Great info there from Stevo, as said its really easy. If you don't still have stockies you can borrow the struts from the red car if you want although I would need them back.
coilovers illegal in your state???
ive never heard of anyone getting hassled for coilovers,
for ride height yes, but not for adjustable coilovers...
You should be able to remove the top nuts on the rear struts without removing the speakers, when I did it I just removed those little access panels and there was enough room to easily get a wrench in there. Makes things a little easier!
Btw, thanks for letting me know about your spare distributor mooshie. I'm contacting the seller to see if I can get it exchanged for a new one, I swapped the ICM to the one from the blown distributor and the code 15 disappeared, maybe both ICMs are busted...
greatly appreciated stevo!
and yes espionage they are illegal unless you have an engineers cert approving them. Apparently anything which affects your suspension travel needs an engineers cert!? maybe this guy was making up some bs i dont know
Hi guys
Will a b series carbon fiber spark plug cover fit a B18A1 by any chance>>??
cheers
nah it wont man, its meant for the vtec rocker covers, with the spark plug coversQuote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
Thought so cheers anyway stevo, it would look mad tho,Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Lol wishfull thinking true that,
Looking at a guys skunk2 springs, shocks an sleeves front and back for da9 , anyone got anything to say about this setup? Good ? Bad?
Cheers guys
what shcoks
i used to run skunk2 on stock shocks good lows, alrite handling
Not sure wat shocks yet, haven't even seen a pic yet, he just said he has the skunk2 sports shocks, skunk2 spings and skunk2 sleeves, said that it's coilovers , I don't know much about sussy, so thought I'd ask u .
Any that I should be weary of?
Thanks stevo , ura ledge
eh nah sounds alrite, sleeves meanin its height adjustable
so in theory coilovers, only thing its prob not damper adjustable meaning cud be a shit ride
rele depends on cost
DA9-47 there are spark plug covers available that people have made for the b18a1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/b18a-...Q5fCarQ5fParts
so does that mean it will be able to raise and lower the cars sussy, but if i raise it it will be bouncy and if i lower it it will be really stiff?
were as coilovers have a a good feel overall??
correct me if im a tard =)
There are these carbon fibre ones available aswell http://www.isportcomposites.com/LS-S...ver-CLSSPC.htm
DDUUUUUUDDEEEEEE, you are amazing lolz,Quote:
Originally Posted by SL33K
nah man i didnt think it would work, looks micky , maybe another colour, sand back writing on it but farrrrk, your a champ for looking for that for me ,
,just so you know
i did look around and couldn't find anything .
cheers bro
wow sleek where u been man, did u have the service manual still?
i converted my da6 to manual btw
a coilover is rele just a sleeved spring over a shock
height adjustament is done but the sleeve part u screw it up or down for height
damper adjustment is usaully on top of a shock, with somethin u can turn like a knob, the gas pressurises and stuff makin it stiffer or soft
wud that work on our rocker covers? cuz thats a b18b one pictured
AHHHH i see , my mate was trying to explain this to me , i just couldn't understand him on 5 hours sleep, but you managed well stevo!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
so would you say you would mush rather the damper adjustable coilover's compared to the sleeve height adjustable ones im looking at ? big diff in price id assume , but quality would be worth eating rice till Christmas!?!
+1 FAKE REP FOR YOU
( cant give real rep till i get rep or sumfin)
why would you be interested??Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
group buy lolz??
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
get one with both haha, my old set up was koni with eibachs was damper adjustable but not height i cud of got ground control sleeves for it , but i found teins at an offer i cudnt refuse lol
btw for wat i see u got green rep, menain u can give legit rep :P
haha maybe, i was mostly just savin u from buyin somethin that might not fit, cuz out rocker covers are slightly diff, but im pretty srue a b18b rocker fits on ours, if u wanna try thatQuote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
B18B/B20 rocker cover will fit the B18A as the valve tran dimensions and head are the same and a dime a dozen as they come off the CR-V as well as Integras.
Then you can repaint and make it look all nice with a carbon insert as well.... Just get new seals though as I wouldn't trust just putting sealant on your old ones. There are heaps of instructions out there including one on this site.
I've been around lol just been really busy.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
I've still got the service manual just been having trouble getting the pages flat while scanning it, there's about 100 pages to scan lol. Will try and get it done asap.
Well done on the manual conversion did you have any trouble?
I'm picking up a oem lip kit for my da6 soon, been looking for one for ages.
Just realized that's for a b18b so it wouldn't fit a b18a. Sorry for the confusion guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Bring me up just to tear me down!! Lolz
I can live without it but it would look good
if u rele want get a b18b cover, id do that but b18a cover is already painted and cut to show cam gearsQuote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
as mooshie said b18b/b20 cover shud fit straight on,
ok, question for all the DA junkies- in this thread, http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...a-B16A-Low-K-s!
look at the engine bay shot. I am trying to figure out what the reservoir at the rear of the bay is for on the passenger side, anybody got suggestions?
free bump for the seller too I suppose! very clean and tidy car.
That's the abs unit I have the same in my da6Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Yeah i just figured it out... damn you are quick!
have you ever really tested the ABS out? I read on G2IC all the time that they are notorious for failing and that they just remove them when they start to have issues as they are very expensive to repair. Would love to see how hard it is to install though, I would think it would be a real pain.
lol msn messenger lets me know when I get a new email telling me there's a new post in this thread.
I have my abs disconnected because it makes a weird sound continuously, don't think it works so I havn't tried using it. I want to remove it eventually.
ooooo is that wat it is, ive been wonderin too, cuz i dont have it :P
Hey all, I am having some drama with my da9, I am getting an occasional knocking noise sometimes when I get on the power in a low gear but not all the time and a groaning sound when I brake firmly ( this does not seem to happen when I put the car in neutral but it still can happen when the clutch is in.) My car is lowered on coilovers and I have found that my left inner rack end is worn and has some movement. Is this likely to be the cause or should i be looking at the driveshafts or wheel bearing on the left hand side.
I have tried to search for this numerous times but don't get anything that seems close.
I am also trying to find somewhere online to buy a steering rack end kit that includes inner and outer tie rods. any help would be much appreciated.
im getting a similar problem, but the knocking noise continues even when i have it in neutral. Then when i push the clutch in it stops. any ideas on what is wrong?
not sure bout 91type-r's problem
but pezman urs sound like clutch, theres springs on the clutch disk, dampenings to stop knockin they mite be worn out or somethin like that
when u press clutch in, it stops spinnin it, put in neutral its still connected to engine so will spin
anyway thats my theory
i hope it isnt my clutch, its only done just under 10,000km's. i was thinking my bearings could be on the way out? but i dunno
did u change the thrust bearing? when the clutch was changed?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezman
yeh what he said, bout the clutch
otherwise it could b a inner guard scrubbing on something,
as for 91 type r, could be a cv joint, could be wheel bearing,
the height of my mrs car b4 and the wheels we got with no tyres...
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/6972/dsc0070rn.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4462/dsc0074nq.jpg
the new ride height with steves koni shocks & eibach springs.... so LOWERED looks neat!!!
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5317/dsc0079aw.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3221/dsc0087at.jpg
My question should be a good one for ppl who like toughies :P
Basically car was working perfectly up till few months ago when lost all compression, piston rings n such, so got 2nd hand engine block to fix then after it was put in it had issues with fluctuating idling which was put down to the IACV and a bad O2 sensor.
After those were done it was good for a few days but then had the engine light come on once for no reason, mechanic couldnt figure out reason either as it went off moments b4 they came to check it out :S engine light finally came back on days later just after starting and driving for less than minute where it chugged slightly then as soon as pulled over it stalled and wouldnt start for few minutes.
Got it to mechanics place and they reckon ecu has gone into limp mode, tried replacing the ecu to no avail and that cured it for a time but replacement ecu went back into limp mode after a 5km run, and now want to try replacing the dizzy. B4 the compression was lost at start there was no trouble like this at all with car so am pretty sure most parts, except for ones proven to suck since then, are still good to my knowledge.
Any ideas? Is all of the info I can think of atm but can get more if needed 4 ppl as has been so long getting through all stupid crap with car lately
Hey dude, Crap sounds like you been having fun lolQuote:
Originally Posted by citran
Have you tried to see if error codes are coming up?
New to this stuff too, but in some other posts, people with similar probs were reffered to look up error codes as a diognostic tool.
I did see ECU code listings at http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/13.html
look through there teg tips and see if that helps
=)
yeah its been a hell of a time lol
only error codes i could get out of it, and mechanic also, was code 4 which doesnt exist as far as i'm aware :S i know they also tried hooking up a ecu reader to it to check but got nothing either tho i assume it was a very generalised reader as nearest honda dealer is in adelaide 2 hours drive away ugh
hey mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by citran
did allitle looking around for ya,
and people are talking about this "code 4" that doesn't come up on the ecu code list on www.g2ic.com/tegtips and naming it as a "CKP code"= Crankshaft position sensor , is your car in tune? have you had any aftermarket parts installed? adjustable cams?
some people said that there dissy was gone, or it was tuned to much retarded/advancement.
so yeah check that out man n c how you go aye
That lip looks awesome,Quote:
Originally Posted by vuonguz
nice rims too man!!
Cheers for that :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
Haven't had any aftermarket parts on the car to my knowledge as dealership wasnt able to provide full owner history at time. Mech reckoned that the bearings in the dissy were all stuffed tho so might just try getting a replacement for it first then go from there...anyone know a place to find one cheapish?
Does your car actual limit early makin u think its limp mode
or just refuse to accelerate, if refuse to accelerate check your timing, my timing was out i thought it ecu related, it was throwin codes, i changed alot of sensors nothin finally thought ill double check timing, as i had cam gears on it, but was off, so check that :)
as far as limit goes i never took it past 50, was in middle of town so couldnt do anything past it before getting to mechanics place, but accelerating was perfectly normal from what it felt like however after the replacement ecu was chucked in to test they took it up to 80 in a 5km drive and as soon as it went past 80 car started to chug and engine light came back on till gettin it back to shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Timing wise I actually had that redone after the new engine block was put in as old mechanic thought it was cause of fluctuating idle at time which ended up as dirty IACV :S never taking car back there me thinks lol well if can get it back to working order am lucky only live 5 mins walk from work
Nice lip! brings back memoriesQuote:
Originally Posted by vuonguz
i have a squeaky sort of rattle coming from the back of the car? i searched and it came up with something to do with the hatchback, but i thought it would be related to the suspension as i just changed back to stock. it was still happening with the aftermarket coilovers but wasnt as obvious. any help appreciated cheers
if its wat i had its the hatch striker squeaking, put some electrical tape around the latch not to much or it wont close, but just so it has a coating that stopped my squeaks
rear trailing arm bush maybe?
from my expierience the trailing arm bushes didnt rele make any squeaks, both da's i had did it, and i had almost fixed every single bush in rear of car and it still did it, with modified suspension or not, so when i finally got my 2nd car i researched lil more, turns out its the latch on the hatch, taped it up no squeakies xDQuote:
Originally Posted by espionage85
whats the hatch striker? the rattle comes from the left rear if i hit a bump on the left...same for the right side.
if its a rattle prob something else mine used to squeak but just driving nomrally
it is probably your rubber seats in the top hats of the standard suspension, they are about 20 years old now and rubber gets hard and squeaks over that time. you could always try putting a tiny bit of a very thin machine oil on there and see if that works. could always put it on other bushings to see if they are the problem too.
only a drop should do the job dont go making a mess.
could be.. but it started happening with the new suspension on? thanks for the replys anyway
i think he meant it squeaks but sounds like a rattle.
this happens when u change suspension. once u put coilovers u drop ur ride height which has move the sway bars from its normal position where its's clipped onto your chassis.
if u undo the rubber bushes that holds the swaybar to the chassis and grease it up. squeak will go away
basically swaybar is squeaking with the rubber bushing that's holding it.
oh ok thanks heaps man i'll try that soon.
will 15 x 6 wheels with 55 offset fit on the da9? i am looking for stocky alloys and some are for sale from a BB2 prelude. tyres are 205/50/15
been looking at S/C or turbo my left over B18A1 , basically i read a few threads about turboing or supercharging it,
a guy wrote this in hondaswap:
well, its not the # of hp gained, its when and where the hp is gained.
100 hp from a blower is great, but front wheel drive cars like ours benefit from maxemizing their strenghts, and dealing with loads of low end power and torque is not one of them.
"If you decided to turbo your car and gained lets say 90hp (just to prove my point) the power wouldnt come right away (turbo lag) but it would be available from 3krpms to your redline (unlike a blower which becomes less effective as more stress is put on the crank pulley).
One thing to consider with a frontwheel drive car is the issue of traction. If you cant get traction you arent going to go anywhere so to speak, and in this case, a turbo would be your friend, because you will be able to hook up nice off the line and then your power will kick in.
hope that helps"
does this sum up the diff between the 2? lolz
thanking you guys
his point are true. either way it gonna be well worth your while looking at increasing traction. gaining extra horsepower anywhere is useless unless you can put the power to the ground. a good example of this is the ability of all wheel drive vehicles to compete with far more 'powerful' cars. it doesn't so much matter how much power you can make but wat you can do with it. however to get back to the point for the ba18 which is already quite strong in the low rpm area i would go with the turbo option... betta on fuel too..
Thanx man,Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Was thinking that a turbo would be better,
was just thinking that a S/C would be different, but if its not going to do much for me , and cost 2x as much then turbo would be the better option.
thanks again
please anyone quickly?!!? will 15 x 6 wheels with 55 offset fit on the da??
I Got Skunk2 I/M and T/B mounted on engine, just got a few questions plzz:
#1 some people are saying i will need to change fuel rail in order for everything to fit, is this true or can i just use stock b18a rail.
from what i can see the stock I/M has bolts monted to it and the rail slides over , securing with 3 bolts, skunk2's i/m has 3 holes for bolts to go into, was hoping i could just get bolts to fit, and smaller spacers, and the FRV wont fit, bottom pipe hits the I/M .............can i just get aftermarket one ?
#2 some things look like they are not needed any more, just wondering in the pic i attached bellow do i need any of these parts?
or just plug holes?
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...ploads/OZZ.jpg parts off
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...loads/zzzz.jpg original locations
edit: #2 sits on the I/M right under the T/B..... under the bit wer the 2 pipes go thru the bottom of the T/B
U can use stock fuel rail thats fine, FRV?, Do u mean ur Fuel Pressrure Regulator , the thing to the right of the rail with two hoses?, if so i just turned it upside down and it fit perfectly,
u can get rid of all those parts, 1 and 3 are cold idlers, u just got hold ur revs up a bit when ur startin ur car, or itll stall
2 is a warmer, remove it and just bypass it, so the hose coming from the IACV goes straight to the head
also noticed in pic 70mm throttle body? wow u planning on turboing? also im assuming u bored the IM out to fit this,cuz from factory there only round 63mm, meaning ur tb wont open
Thanks heaps stevo, thought they were junk now lol, I got new skunk2 I\m an t/b , put them together and the throttle opens to full, did u mean if I use 70 mm on stock I/m? And after a bit of researching I decided I will build and turbo my old motor, after I install newer one I'll have it in my garage so plenty of room to rebuild:)
thanks mate :)
ah if it opens thats fine
just measure cuz if u want full benefit itll have to be 70mm too