Track Prep FN2R

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Originally Posted by moo moo nel

for GTI if you want to adjust the rear damping, you have to take the whole rear shock off and then press it and twist
how about FN2?

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ahh, nothing like that, just allen keys on the top and bottom of the shocks.

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Originally Posted by lukits01

haha was no brainer really... I wouldn't touch Japanese suspension with a 10-foot pole
and these guys were the first to come out with coilovers for the FN2, so... there were no other brands available! lol

V1 is only height adjustable, V2 adds rebound adjustment, V3 adds bump adjustment
the valving is all very similar, only a matter of how much time will you spend tweaking the settings.
springs are progressive, so there's no linear spring rates per say.
also no separate height adjustment to spring pre-load. KW products are made to be sold in Germany, they have to past very strict TUV test to be deemed road worthy.
i.e. they aren't allowed to be too low otherwise some German bureaucrat (the most anal of bureaucrats) will fail the certification.
I guess that should mean something, that they are certified for road use in Germany and not "For Race Use Only"
could always just read the promo material: http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/kw_valve_technology.php

the only other alternative I would consider (at least until Ohlins get around to making their kit) is AST: http://www.ast-suspension.com/sportline2.asp?make=Honda
but there's very little info on them at the moment. Of course these suspension upgrades will improve lap times, but they are redundant without a good LSD.

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Hey lukits, you seem to be against japanese made coilovers, any reason(s) behind your mindset?
What is the difference between rebound and bump adjustment?
Are there any advantages for progressive spring rates compared to fixed spring rates? What is the best way to reduce roll resistance? I noticed you installed a rear sway bar, how does help to the fn2r as I feel that the rear stays pretty flat through corners in stock setup.

Funny you mention that about the brakes, they certainly don't look the part.

Where's our OEM brembos!!

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Originally Posted by jyh888

Hey lukits, you seem to be against japanese made coilovers, any reason(s) behind your mindset?
What is the difference between rebound and bump adjustment?
Are there any advantages for progressive spring rates compared to fixed spring rates? What is the best way to reduce roll resistance? I noticed you installed a rear sway bar, how does help to the fn2r as I feel that the rear stays pretty flat through corners in stock setup.

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mmm nothing technical really, just never seen one that I've been impressed with, seen a few too, HKS/Buddyclub/GReddy/Spoon/Toda/Cusco they've all been pretty rubbish with their setup.
A few of the top of the range Tein was alright, but still nowhere close to the range of capabilities of the European offerings.
In general, silly spring rates and overdamped to compensate for silly spring rates.
So what you get is a car that can't handle bumps and just too stiff to allow any kind of weight transfer.

theoretically progressive spring rates gives more comfortable ride but sacrificing response, they need the shocks to be valved to suit. So you shouldn't change springs with shock absorbers valved for progressive spring rates. Progressive springs are best for road use, a GOOD (e.g. hypercoil/swift/eibach) linear spring for performance use.

Have a read at this website: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

also theoretically a slightly over-steering car is always the faster car, the stiffer rear swaybar is there to help lift the inside rear wheel, transferring the weight to the other 3 wheels.

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Originally Posted by lukits01

mmm nothing technical really, just never seen one that I've been impressed with, seen a few too, HKS/Buddyclub/GReddy/Spoon/Toda they've all been pretty rubbish with their setup.
A few of the top of the range Tein was alright, but still nowhere close to the range of capabilities of the European offerings.
In general, silly spring rates and overdamped to compensate for silly spring rates.
So what you get is a car that can't handle bumps and just too stiff to allow any kind of weight transfer.

theoretically progressive spring rates gives more comfortable ride but sacrificing response, they need the shocks to be valved to suit. So you shouldn't change springs with shock absorbers valved for progressive spring rates. Progressive springs are best for road use, a GOOD (e.g. hypercoil/swift/eibach) linear spring for performance use.

Have a read at this website: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

also theoretically a slightly over-steering car is always the faster car, the stiffer rear swaybar is there to help lift the inside rear wheel, transferring the weight to the other 3 wheels.

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Thanks lukits, that information helps me to understand alot more. So you would say the KW coilovers are a very good balance for both street comfort and track performance? If you don't mind, where did you source them and how much? Do whiteline/selby still offer that sway bar to the public?? I can't seem to grab hold of one. And regarding your brake setup, is it still possible to run DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors without using S2000 rotors to fit the brembos?

I hoping to see track again in September/August so first things on my mind are upgrade the braking system, suspension and drivetrain before i chase any more power. I hope this thread inspires a few more fn2rs to see the track ;)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/...59d4d2d7_b.jpg

At track :)

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Originally Posted by jyh888

Thanks lukits, that information helps me to understand alot more. So you would say the KW coilovers are a very good balance for both street comfort and track performance? If you don't mind, where did you source them and how much? Do whiteline/selby still offer that sway bar to the public?? I can't seem to grab hold of one. And regarding your brake setup, is it still possible to run DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors without using S2000 rotors to fit the brembos?

I hoping to see track again in September/August so first things on my mind are upgrade the braking system, suspension and drivetrain before i chase any more power. I hope this thread inspires a few more fn2rs to see the track ;)

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good choice, power is wasted on the track without LSD, just spins the inside wheel all the time.
why not email whiteline themselves about the swaybars? I was pointed to selby's by whiteline when I inquired about making custom swaybars.

It is a lot more work to get stock rotors to work with the brembos, change wheel bearings, extended studs, custom 7.5mm spacers behind the rotor and after all that you might still need spacers for your wheels and it wont be hubcentric anymore since the hub spigot will sink into the rotors. I don't recommend it, if you must go to DC5R brembos, use S2000 rotors, and nice ones at that.
but its quite overkill for the casual track car, nothing a good choice of pads and fluids cant do.

I would say the KW is a great for street/track use, with primarily street use. In hindsight, I would've liked coilovers valved for linear springs, but the KWs has never given me a reason to complain.
having said that though, I've heard of 1-2 cases of V2s leaking and replaced under warranty, so they aren't without the odd faulty batch. I think the distributor is Inmotive motorsport or something like that, I just went from the KW website and they listed the Australian dealer.

More Track Photos ~

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/4057/mg1349.jpg

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4460/mg1348.jpg

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/421/mg1092.jpg

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9016/mg1089t.jpg

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/3353/mg0799.jpg

Waiting on my brake setup to be installed before i hit track again...

nice pics !!

UPDATE : ~

I'll be seeing the track next month so I have had a new brake setup, as you would have read in my earlier reflection at track with the stock brakes they were very poor in terms of braking performance and feel. Now im running:

Dixcel Type HS Slotted & Heat Treated Rotors and
Endless MX72 brake pads (these are the same parts as DC5R/EP3R)
I have left the rear brakes completely stock, as most of the braking effort is required at the front

http://a.imageshack.us/img130/571/img8927nw.jpg

After the initial break in period, they feel completely different and much more responsive! Braking effort seems to be reduced quite a considerable amount, I have yet to test these at track but so far so good = ) Currently i am still using the OEM honda brake fluid, before track i will change to braided lines with Motul RBF600 Dot 4 brake fluid

I have also installed a Defi Racer 52mm Oil Temp Gauge wired to the dash

http://a.imageshack.us/img267/1165/img8938v.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img693/9378/img8947z.jpg

Changed the OEM round gearknob to a Mugen 6speed gearknob and it is hell lot easier to shift as I find the round one too small, the mugen gearknob is also slightly heavier, making shifts feel firmer and confident and best of all it removed the notchy feeling

http://a.imageshack.us/img714/3620/img8937r.jpg

As we speak, I am having a Honda OEM Helical LSD taken from a CL7 Euro R fitted into my gearbox with an Exedy Sports Organic Clutch & 3.8kg Lightened Flywheel.
Once its all in, I will report back on how they perform. Any FN2R's in sydney want to join me in track next month??

Hey mate, in changing your break setup, have you noticed "less" dust on the wheels...

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Originally Posted by Menzy

Hey mate, in changing your break setup, have you noticed "less" dust on the wheels...

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Hardly any brake dust on the front but still heaps on the rear