But don't you think the power seems a bit low?
wonder what gear he ran it in.
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But don't you think the power seems a bit low?
wonder what gear he ran it in.
The yellow lines are full load HP & full load AFRQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Its auto so I assume it's all gears up to 110 kph. I also assume the run would have reached higher HP at higher speeds but the test run was terminated at 110 kph. What HP (kW) ATW should I get as maximum? - the advertised engine power is 140 kWQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
I assume quoted power (140 kW) is without any accessory (alterator, power steering, aircon, water pump) - so loss via power-train would be less than the 40%Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
i would thought they turn it into tiptronic into 4th and run it until cut off which is 7200rpm.
For stock i would assume you'd get around the 100-105kw atw mark from previous members who dyno'd it stock.
Your 122HP would = 122/1.36 = KW value. Which when i calc'd is 89.7kw ATW.
From your replies I get the message that something is wrong somewhere. I will try your suggestions & if I can prove to a court that the car has a fault I will ask Honda to fix & pay my expenses in proving it or proceed to court if Honda wont.
Thanks to you all
See what other ppl say, i don't have an auto myself so i'm not sure how they do the dyno for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by cdbstock
I may be wrong and that the auto has a larger power loss than the manual.
Where did you get your car dyno'ed?
From memory the KW loss ATW on a manual is around 25% (average), on an auto average is 30 to 35% depending an design of auto tans
Dynos vary so much it's not always wise to get caught up in power figures. Also, if it was done on quite a hot day I would expect it to be down on power.
This is a hard one to diagnose if it isn't throwing fault codes. Usually when O2 sensors or TPS goes you get fault codes.
It could just be the short trips - it really does take it's toll. Especially if you're stuck in traffic.
Any other symptoms?
I wouldn't be hung up on the dyno power results. Looking at the partial throttle, you are getting about 14.5:1 AF ratio, which is typical when with light load. Did you manage to do a run with almost no load? So the speed/rpm won't change, but you're just keeping the car's wheel speed constant. That's closed-loop mode where the ECU relies almost totally on the O2 sensor to determine whether more fuel is needed.
Don't bother with Shell. I had my worst ever figures with V-Power. They use ethanol to get the mixture to 98 RON. I average 7.5-8.5L/100kms on vortex and have been for the last 9 months. V-Power I topped out on 10L/100kms. With V-Power your better off using Shell's E10. Talking to my mate who deals with the refineries through his work, Vortex is the best, followed by Mobil 8000 then BP Ultimate.Quote:
Originally Posted by cdbstock
Rob