Yes although technically he said 40psi heated he did mention weight. English is a bitch and can be argued but anyways its not a big fuss -_-Quote:
Originally Posted by sirdistik
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Yes although technically he said 40psi heated he did mention weight. English is a bitch and can be argued but anyways its not a big fuss -_-Quote:
Originally Posted by sirdistik
hmm if you get camber wear and cant afford camber kits..is it aiight just to lower the tyre pressure
It helps to a degree, but definatly won't solve the problem.
how old were your tyres? were they slightly damaged? of course, any sort of scratch or something with a thinning effect will weaken the tyre significantlyQuote:
Originally Posted by FallenAngel
i get bad ass camber wear...when i get a wheel alignment if i ask to put it on stock setting that will that take away camber wear?
soz for the noobness..
Put into consideration every car is placed with negative camber.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
A "U" shaped tire will have more contact on which ever side is being leaned towards the camber.
With a "W" type. You have room for wheel contact point as the wheel turns.
And a "W" cross section is only valid to a certain degree where youre under inflating the tyre.
Also put into consideration of centrifugal force.
If a wheel is spinning. The air pressure in the tyre will be diverted away from the rim or in other words, more biased towards the tread of the wheel.
Eventually. Going on a fast enough speed (60kmh lets say) that W turns into a U cross section with a better width contact.
You inflate a tyre with a high pressure, that U cross section will only get sharper.
If you want to test which is better.
Go on a wet track. Test with 40 psi and test with 20 psi.
Test it with the same car. In this case. A front wheel drive. And evaluate at what speeds the car understeers and how fast it can recover.
Nope. +ve Toe will help with camber wear, which is not a stock setting.Quote:
Originally Posted by fitvpower
Any decent wheel aligner can tell you if they can adjust out your camber wear and adjust it to suit. Otherwise they will tell you you need a camber kit.
10000kms approx.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
It just literally split to the thread.
hmmmmm I see what yo're saying, omgJAIxD
I never thought of that to argue with the guy when i was there lol...
Lol yeh well it takes abit of thinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
What people have been taught is from the old days where the profile of the tyre is as high as 60-70.
Now we have wider wheels. bigger diameters. Lower profiles.
Same basics apply. But the standards are changed.
=]
High pressures is good for fuel efficiency though.
then wut about bikes who take like.. 50 PSI and have about 1cm of tyre touching the road...
the stress on the ground from the tyre is a lot greater because the weight is concentrated into a smaller area... does that mean more or less traction for the vehicle? That confuses me because i've heard things about hwo small car putting like.. wheels too wide, and then they become less grippy...
and then with camber, the surface area of contact with the road is also decreased too (good for cornering but straight-line accelration has more or less traction??)
Did u get what i'm saying :S that's just everything blurted out in one go... (apologies)
Ok first obvious point is that bikes are lighter than cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Basically weight plays a major factor when it comes to traction. The more weight the object has the more "grip" it requires to hold it. Even though more force is exerted to the ground, when cornering the downward force will change its direction according to the turn (not sure if you get what i mean there).
Just say a car takes a corner at its limit before any traction loss occurs is @ 50km/h, a bike could probably take it at 80km/h using the same amount of traction required by the car.
[There is a formula in physics that will tell u this but i can't remember it]
Also the more surface area the better, such as the more "tyre" on the ground is better. Although weight will also determine how much force will be put down. The more force in the same surface area, the more traction you will get. Just say like bike weighs 100kg (i actually dont know the real weight) and the surface area of the 2 tires touching the ground is 1m squared. A ratio can be thought of 100:1
On a car, the weight could be say 1000kg but the surface area by 4 tyres is 10m squared, so the ratio is the same 1000:10 -> 100:1
This means the traction is the same across both objects.
(Just trying to get the point across, these figures are probably wrong haha)
Wide tyres usually give more grip as it gives more surface area of the tyre touching the ground. (USUALLY not all the time)
Camber will increase cornering traction as the tyre wall will flex according to the corner. Just say u take a left turn, the tirewall will flex towards the right, and if the tyres have camber then it will conteract this flex and align the tyre to be as if it had no camber on the straight for the duration of the turn.
[ ] -> \ \
----- ------- (the road should angle up abit like / )
Not sure if you can understand this but i tried lol.
I might fix up this post later