ED with D15B7 injected wiring help

Here are the pics of my relay

http://gallery.2dingos.com.au/albums...ay01.sized.jpg

http://gallery.2dingos.com.au/albums...ay02.sized.jpg

Hi All,

I now have 2 PGMFI relays

http://gallery.2dingos.com.au/albums...ays1.sized.jpg

http://gallery.2dingos.com.au/albums...ays2.sized.jpg

They both appear to have the same numbering on the pins (and location) but can anyone give me a good diagram to show what wires should go where? I think 2 of the pins have 2 wires each off them. I am not sure if these have different connections to the numbers on each relay

Thanks
Chris

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/mainPGMFIrelay.doc

Thanks ECU-Man, I am hoping that will get me running correctly.

Now, one other thing (part of many i spose) my diagrams show the wires for the alternator running to the ECU, the current wiring does not (original ED) can I paralel them up? as in does the ECU need them for anything? or should i wire them up, and then will the ECU give me the charge light on the dash? same goes for the oil pressure wire

Actually, my schematic doesnt match up at all, your doc refers to a schematic, do you have this as well so i can match up what i have with what your schematic shows?

If i sound rambling, will repost a clearer idea of my issue in the morning

Cheers
Chris

I posted the Schematic for you in this thread already

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

I posted the Schematic for you in this thread already

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Ahh, I was sure that was the diagram I printed out, maybe it was another i had, anyway, will try doing this tonight, need the car running again.

So, in regards to my other question, do I need to wire the alternator etc to the ECU, rather than use the current connections from the original ED loom?

Thanks
Chris

the wire u already have for alternator is strictly for the charge light on cluster.
the other 2 wires from alt<>ecu are, signal to ecu & control to alternator.
they are just fancy little economy & idle functions.

whether the alt will charge without the 2 wires connected im not entirely sure as the ecu grounds the control wire when it seeks to fully reduce the charging rate of the alt & obviously it needs the signal to know exactly what to do anyway.

i think presence of an ELD input is needed to fully make use of these functions,but in any case for the sake of just running 2 wires from alt<>ecu thru the firewall,why not hook them up,not exactly a shitload of extra work.

what is the loom layout u intend to use,ie are u using the stock engine harness & are u changing the main harness at all?

see if this helps with your main relay....

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...lays2sized.jpg

To CRXer and ECUMan, you guys are legendary, with a bit of luck the car will be running again in the next day or so (realised tonight is out due to prepping for some home concreting needed dammit)

I currently have the original loom still running to the starter motor, and alternator, as I figured that was easier, maybe after i get rego, i can slowly work on a plan to wire everything more sensibly.

The diagrams that ECU-Man provided show a lot of connections to the ECU that I was not sure if needed, as it even seems to control the lights for the auto transmission indicators.

You mentioned wiring the alt up to the ECU, is that in parallel with the original loom wires? and the same goes for oil pressure? as at the moment i have the oil pressure wire going to the ECU, not the dash

Cheers
Chris

the easiest way out is too use the engine loom that came with the motor.
then if u extract all the wires from the obd1 loom u have that go from the passenger side shock tower plugs to the ecu & just feed them thru the firewall,then more than half of your motor wiring is done in about an hour with factory wiring reliability(no cuts or joins).
the drivers side plugs coming off the motor can be adapted to the original loom easy enough to complete the wiring.
then u just need to run an alternator feed to the fuse box which is on different side in ED.
& obviously arrange some power for mainrelay/ecu/fuel pump under the drivers side dash somewhere.

u will not need to feed any auto g/box stuff to the ecu,since u have it started & that input wasnt needed,the rest of the gearbox is just going to be running hydraulically as originally it did.
how well or smooth it will idle & shift in this configuration,i wouldnt have a clue,but i guess u will find out.

no the alt wires are not in parallel with the ED wire,as i said that one wire is just for the charge light & charge light only,if u install the wire looms as i laid out above then the alt wires will be done to the ecu in any case.

as for the oil pressure,assuming u dont mean power/steer oil pressure than the only other oil pressure wiring u have is the oil pressure switch & this goes only to the dash indicator light,only oilp pressure signal u will be sending to ecu will be power/steer & since u prob dont have the switch installed in the power/steer higher pressure line than u will not be wiring it.
just ground the power/steer input pin to ecu to one of the ground wires at the ecu,it will tell the ecu u dont have any power/steer pressure happening,so idle will be as normal,but may drop a fair bit if u are stationary & turning the wheel(thats if u install power/steer in any case)

actually i just contradicted myself,
u might have to run dummy connections to the ecu for the transmission lock-up controls to keep the ecu happy & code free or convert the ecu to manual.

OK, what I have so far.
I got the D15B7 with complete Engine loom
I have now got a loom from engine bay (3 plugs on passenger side) with fusebox to the ECU from an EG. so that loom runs inside the car now, and I know that with the diagrams you guys posted, I can wire the PGFM relay and ECU up
On the drivers side, I have the 2 plugs from the engine loom, I know on this one is the tacho, injectors +ve, and +ve for the ignition coil.
I was going to leave the original engine bay loom as it already has starter motor, alternator, oil press and water temp wiring
My main concern is what the ECU needs as a minimum to run, I don't have Peter's patience to strip the whole lot and wire from scratch, it would kill me haha
I was hoping I could get rid of the EG engine bay fusebox, as the aircon and radiator fans are all supplied from the original fusebox, dont want doubles if I can avoid it.
There is an ECU fuse in the original fusebox, it just doesnt have a wire going to anywhere, so was going to use that as my ECU supply
Hopefully in the next day or so, when its running, I can work out what is needed to finish it all
Cheers
Chris

yes,dump the EG fusebox,theres no need for it,all your really adding to the power distribution in the car,is an EFI supply(x2) & a fuel pump supply,why go over complicating things for simple 3 additional circuits.

as i said,just start by unwrapping the EG car loom between the 3 passenger side plugs & the ECU & then just seperate that wiring from the rest of the loom(there will be a coupla minor teeoffs,such as SCS & Datalink plugs,but nothing overly confusing).
then depin the ecu plugs & u can pull all the wiring thru the firewall.
repin the ecu plugs & all passenger side is then finished.

most of the driver side plugs is just dash indicator lights/gauge/reverse lights/power distribution/etc.not exactly fragile stuff,so a bit of chop & join there is nothing to be scared of.

hardest bit will be just wiring in the main relay & distributing power to & from it,not exactly overwhelming either.

& yes,just pickup that spare ecu fuse slot for the main relay supply & tap off a back-up supply for ecu from the hazard light switch supply.