0 voltage, im going by that thread that beeza made, im sticking the probes into the wires while its conected to the throttle body and i got no voltage at all :/
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0 voltage, im going by that thread that beeza made, im sticking the probes into the wires while its conected to the throttle body and i got no voltage at all :/
It's just a fancy way of saying make sure the circuit is flowing electricity fine :pQuote:
Originally Posted by tiksie
I.E. connect the multimeter at the ecu end and the sensor end to make sure there's no breaks in the wiring.
Thought so :p
Do you know what colours I would have to look at ? I was going to do that yesterday but then I look at the ecu harness and said "**** that" LOL, I didn't know which colours they were and if they were the same as the one on the sensor end.
Do the voltage tests in ECU-MAN's DIY.
Pinout diagram is here. Yours is the OBD1 diagram.
Getting 5V on C19 and C22 on both sides (TPS plug & ecu) but I'm getting 1V on C11 on ECU side AND on TPS plug side.
New ECU in order ?
Okay guys a bit of a update, fiddling around with everything.
So I ran a new C11 wire to the TPS plug from the ECU.
on closed throttle I am getting 0.01V and at wide open throttle I'm getting 3.29V, you guys think this would be a tps issue ? When I adjust the actual TPS rather then the throttle the voltage doesn't rise, but when I open the throttle from the actual throttle it goes up to 3.29V on both sides, TPS plug side and also the ECU side and closed throttle is 0.01V
Any input would be great!
ok this is not cool lol, sorry but im a bit confuse with wat ur doing???? try this, put one side of the multimeter on ground or wedge on negative terminal and the other probe onto the middle wire going to the tps, closed throttle u should get about 0.46v open throttle about 4.5-4.6v. most importantly u need to adjust ur tps so that it is reading about .46v at closed and when u get that if the open throttle reading is too low maybe u need to slightly adjust ut throttle cable.
Let me know wat u get
************never mind what i wrote about testing at tps side if its easier at the ecu side since ur getting the same reading
Hi B18c!
I just told you what I get lol, 0.01V at closed throttle and 3.29V at wide open throttle.
Wether I adjust the TPS or not, it doesn't make a difference with the voltage values!
EDIT: I'm trying to get rid of the TPS error right now!
reply to FIRST POST:
i've just bought a AUS Del Sol (B16A2) and swapped to a JDM P30 ECU and i've been having mega bog issues when taking off (normally).. The JDM ECU gives me a Code 20 and 23 (ELD and Knock Sensor) thanks to AUS spec hondas not having a knock sensor nor ELD.
Years ago when i did my conversion (AUS EG5 to JDM B16A) I had all these issues and more. I ended up installing a JDM Fuse Box with ELD etc and it got rid of the bogging down I think.
Advice given to me from very knowledgable and experienced people on this forum was that the ELD wouldnt affect anything. My own research into the fucntionality of the ELD would suggest that it DOES havbe the ability to affect the running of the engine. When current drain exceeds current produced the ELD is meant to operate the IACV to raise the revs to compensate... now to me.. if there is no ELD operational and there is a high current load, the load on the engine is increased however the engine speed (revs) are not raised to compensate - which could cause an initial bogging sensation... less current to the ignition etc - so lik ewhen you UPGRADE your spark-leads etc - but the opposite...??
Also have you checked your ignition timing ? it creates a bogging down when overly advanced also - and will have a good topend though.. my Del Sol when i bought it had it's ignition timing fully RETARDED which gave me great low down toque however abolutely nothing above 4,500 RPM....
Interesting VT3C, thanks for the input.
AFAIK from the previous owner, I was told that the timing is untouched stock standard.
I will have a look into the JDM fusebox, are they hard to come by ? And is it hard installing one ? Once I get rid of this TPS issue and if it still does it, I Will look into that!
Thanks for that.
Aytac
I am pretty sure its TPS related -- Need to go through the excercise of recalibrating it to the default range and check your ecu OBD output to match.. I gotta do the same thing and thats the last thing it can be, and makes the most sense really. Its where the most wear will happen because you spend most of your time around that throttle position..
anyhow -- i'm doing it next weekend.. see how it turns out.
Get another tps, when u turn the tps to adjust is should deff change voltage, seems like it doesnt get a reading low down like when u adjust but when u push throttle it starts to go up, is the tps moving full way when u adjust?
I think that the tps is DEFINATLY the problem, you wouldnt believe how much of a difference in response it makes when perfectly adjusted.