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ok ive replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder and the line from resiviour to master cylinder replaced the complete clutch line from the master cylinder to slave cylinder aswell. so its not an issue between the resiviour to the slave cylinder... what else could it be? its getting stupid could i have bought a faulty pressure plate or something? the clutch / flywheel were brand new when the problem started.
ouch, hope it goes well, sorry i have nothing informative to say.
with a fresh clutch installed, is the friction point meant to be high or down low?
according to a poster on this thread its meant to stay pretty much the same as what it was stock... it feels weird like its sticking some times and as soon as i let the clutch go even a cm it starts rolling.. but wont fully deactivate untill the pedal is all the way out. maybe the pucks are fusing to the flywheel or something?
dunno about button clutches but i had my exedy organic clutch installed recently, it was initially grabbed down low then after a few days it felt like the oem position again
though the pedal is harder to press and it does feel more grabby
yeah but my clutch now has over 3000 kms on it thats why im cranky :(
had one of the technicians from xtreme clutches ring up and he told me it sounds more like a gearbox / diff problem... the gearbox needed most synchros replaced anyway and i was going to do final drive / lsd aswell. but now i found a 98+ type r s80 gearbox for 1300 so i might just get that. is that a good price? hopefully fixes my problem..
Any reason why ur running a 6 puck? Unless ur pushing crazy power or drag or race cars, I don't see a need for anything other than an oem or oem equivalent.
I remember using an exedy HD in my evo9, and it sucked balls, put an exedy sports organic and it felt like oem
also, this is one of the reasons I choose to pay people to do these types of thongs on my car. I lack the tools and the time to muck around when it goes wrong.
i had the tools and did it with our mechanic at the workshop here. i went with a puck clutch because i plan on tracking it heaps and the oem replacement with only 10000 kms on it was slipping bad at willowbank when launching so i quickly took that out and went with an xtreme puck clutch. i plan on boosting it and putting a bit of power through it (no im not a fanboy p plater dreamer before people jump to that conclusion) in the future so i thought do it once do it right. its made daily driving and city driving alot more adventurous but other then that when its behaving its a realy good clutch that i can be hard on without worrying about it
do you know if the flywheel is stepped or flat?
like this? http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...pWeek5-032.jpg
if its stepped when its machined the same depth needs to be taken off the friction surface and the lip that the pressure plate bolts onto.
If only the firction surface was machined you wont be getting full clamping force, as the clamping distance has been increased... if that makes sense.
just a possibility, but if you didn't see the flywheel after machining you probably wont know
pretty sure it was a brand new clutch/flywheel combo so no machining involved
sorry, missed that bit.
sure you have all the right parts? flywheel suited to pressure plate etc
i did not think that at all, was not machined and all brand new. here are some pics of the flywheel / clutch before installation you might be able to tell me if its right / wrong
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...284dbc8f8d.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...15c5b421f7.jpg