Battery in boot relocation questions

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bludger

you need a direct connection between the starter & battery, no circuit breaker will be able to handle the load....

Battery > master switch > >>>>>

-----starter
-----fuse/circuit breaker > rest of car.


meaning after the main switch, you may split it in two.....

one to the starter and one to the rest of the car, via a fuse...

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Not sure if I like the idea of an unprotected live cable running the length of my car....

I run an 80 amp fuse about 20cm from the positive terminal and in 4 years have not had a problem.

There is the master switch.
What sort of fuse are you running.

A hrc style fuse has a high start up load current and lower running current. Dunno if they exist for cars. What kind of amps does a starter motor draw? Just get a fuse that's bigger?

Fault current will be way higher than whatever the starter draws

If you must have one, look up a megafuse

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

Most of the time you only need the starter for 1 or 2 seconds but in the off chance you have a fuel problem, ignition problem etc that requies you to crank the car over for a longer period than normal then your better off having the constant power handling that the higher gauge cables give expecially when your using longer lengths of cable.

Heres a chart i found that helps illustrate that when you increase the cable length and constant power handleing requirement of the wire, the required gauge goes up quite quickly.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...e_Speaker-Wire

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That chart is for car audio am I right. That stuff runs for a long time, even with engine issues your only going to crank for 10 seconds or so, if it's not starting by then your gonna stop cranking and go fault finding or whatever. You would have to crank for like 30 seconds straight to start doing damage to the cable.

Another option in this scenario, which is way more obvious is that you run the firewall through terminals so u can just disconnect your batt and hook it up to those with jumper cables (which I might add are designed for break down situations, pretty long and still not zero gauge)

So basically most people's opinion are that i should just use 0 gauge wire even if it might be alittle harder to install , better overkill than underkill in my small noob brain lolz,

but with the Fuse, i think if someone would point me in the right dirrection with what sort of fuse i could use that would help heaps,

should it look like this? http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/fu-mega80.htm ???

see post 41

btw, thanks for the link

LOL

been looking where to buy them:p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bludger

see post 41

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hmmm o k?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bludger

btw, thanks for the link

LOL

been looking where to buy them:p

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so that is what they look like , ok now i understand, would jaycar have these ? maybe better than online, and having to wait lol

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResu...keyform=CAT2#1???

the minimum fuse @ jaycar which is 125Amp is too large a value for egg/dc2/da