No I mean I'd have to rep a whole lot of people before I could rep you again, and well, I just can't be bothered.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXDEL501
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No I mean I'd have to rep a whole lot of people before I could rep you again, and well, I just can't be bothered.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXDEL501
ive got an amp forsale that is strong enough to blow any subs away ... PM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...20-d16-d15-wtf!
yeah.... your ads not exactly true... it's only 1000rms at 1ohm... unless your birth certificate says 1500rms.. which is a shitload. Usually an amps actual power is only <100 more than quoted...Quote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
and aside from that, it wouldn't blow 'any' sub away... it'd blow away the cheaper, less power hungry ones... the more expensive, more power hungry ones, it'd have trouble.
But yes, it'd suffice for a basic install.
Its not my add with regards to power claims, its jaycars.
IMO they dont put out that much power anyways,
Unless u own one of these puppies,
Soundstream tarantula, hifonics, PPI - precision power.
PPI are competition amps! And they are proven output power!!
Cant wait for my PPI monoblock to arrive.
Yeah where did you get 1500 from?
Found a source on the net bout jaycar amps spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
Could be tru or claimed outputs.
Ill dig up the specs when i get to work. Its somewhere.
I dunno if it was that one but.
I'm sure that the previous generation which were silver not black where rated at 1500, but when tested only made 1200.
So they dropped the rating to 1000
your probably right champ!Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
jaycar are not a bad amp.
if you want the continious RMS @ 14.4v you will need a farid cap. as it tends to heat up and drops it power eventually. (depends on how loud your subwoffa is turned up!)
fully sikk yuleh!
Gonna disagree on the capacitor.
Just run a nice big battery with thick power wire and upgraded engine bay grounds.
im running massive power/gnd/speaker/remote cables and my battery is a 660cc 15plates for commodore v8s and i still loose power if i crank up the volume to midway - the cars power seems like it wants to shut down. Then i bought a farid capacitor and eliminated the current/voltage drop issue and got to pump it up hard!Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
i noticed without the farid, the voltage dropped to 12.4v supplied power to the amp which caused it to overwork and heat up too quick. Once the farid was in - continuous 14.4v without any voltage drop supply to the amp! win!
im using soundstream tarantula monoblock PCA-2000D. matched with Soundstream X3-122 5000W X3 Sub -Dual 2 Ohm
http://www.getprice.com.au/images/up..._1892747-1.jpg
rated at: 1 x 2000RMS @ 4ohms (14.4v)
you can feel and hear the bass from a street away ..LOL
full SPL comp setup!
In my old car I was running Alpine PDX series. I had a monoblock that was birthsheeted at 1300wrms. A 4 channel that was sheeted at 4x180wrms and a 2 channel that was 2x180wrms.
2380 wrms all up, I was running an optima deep cycle marine battery. The d31 blue top. 900cca
With a single 0ga running to the back, and a single 0ga earth I never had any problems with headlight dimming or power shortage. And you could hear it from blocks away.
wow that battery is a monster... is that the gel/cell type odyssey type batteries? u knw the maintenance free ones?>Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
man i need to get one of those batteries :)
yeh it must be my battery or alternator not being able to keep up with the huge supply/requirement of the amp.
the farken amp weighs like 10kgs - and the sub alone is like almost 20kg.. lol wtf
def my ride is just for sounds and not for JDM rice or racing etc.