Few more questions about audio.

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Originally Posted by Drifter995

1. Splits can offer better staging, and aside from that, I'm pretty sure you can make better quality drivers if they are both seperate.. you don't have the crossover, tweeter and woofer all in one thing... But imo, it's worth the extra effort.

2. I would get fused, just to be safe... It's not needed, but I just prefer to be safe than sorry :)

3. Yes, that is correct, only run positive back from the battery. Your grounds will come from a bolt nearby the amps. As close as possible is recommended. The idea is to get something that bolts directly into the cars body or so, and rub away any paint, so it has direct metal to metal contact.

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Ok, thanks. Do you know what fuse I would put in the distribution block? 200A near the battery I know. Off the dis. block there would be a 200rms 2ch amp (100rms X2) and a 600 rms amp both at 4Ohm. So would I need something like a 50A fuse in there if I was running 4ga wire to the amps?

EDIT: also do I need to run a fuse anywhere on the big 3 upgrade? In one video i saw a guy put a fuse inbetween the battery positive and the alternator (close to battery). Not sure what size it was, guessing 200A or something.

for the dist block, I think it's the larger fuse halved.. so that makes sense, wire is splitting into two...

as for the fuse in big 3 upgrade.. Not actually sure. I suppose you could if you wanted to be safe. I don't know if it's a must or not

edit: is all good tbm :D

the fueses in the distro block are to protect the wire after the block incase of short, should use a fuse larger than what your amp is rated but lower than the max current of the cable.

Heres rough examples from http://www.bcae1.com/
Suggested Fuse Sizes

Wire Gauge Recommended
Maximum Fuse Size
00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps
These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe.

With regards to fusing the alt wire, its definately better to fuse it but there are people who have gotten away without doin it with no problems so up to you how safe you want to be.

Safest way is to fuse at both ends as the alt and battery can output current, if you just fuse at battery end and it shorts close to the alt the fuse at the battery will be useless.

Example:
Alt-Fuse------------Fuse-Battery

many would consider that overkill but if you like to be safe thats the safest way i know.


Not 100% sure on fuse size for alt wire IIRC its meant to be between 10-20% over the output of the alternator but less than the max current draw of the wire used.

Thank you TbM and drifter,dont know what I would do without you. Ill do some digging with the fusing and big 3 side of things. So a fuse protects the wire down stream of it correct? So if I fuse the distribution block, then it protects the 4awg wire leading to the amps?


As for being safe and adding fuses, will a fuse restrict the power going through? So like if I fused the bat and alt on the 0 awg wire in big 3, would it then be like putting 2 awg wire down since it has to travel through more components?

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Originally Posted by 90civicGL

Thank you TbM and drifter,dont know what I would do without you. Ill do some digging with the fusing and big 3 side of things. So a fuse protects the wire down stream of it correct? So if I fuse the distribution block, then it protects the 4awg wire leading to the amps?


As for being safe and adding fuses, will a fuse restrict the power going through? So like if I fused the bat and alt on the 0 awg wire in big 3, would it then be like putting 2 awg wire down since it has to travel through more components?

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Correct.


Current should be limited by the A rating on the fuse. IIRC there will be a slight voltage drop across the fuse, weather this is noticable or not i have Nfi but i would assume it wouldnt be noticable in your case.

Regards,
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...3784d58838.gif

Heres some more info on fuses.
http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

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Originally Posted by TbM

Heres some more info on fuses.
http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

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Thank you once again.

No worries mate, good to see people trying to learn instead of just paying someone else to do it.

That bcae1 site is a good site too look through, has heaps of info.

Another quick question, How does a dedicated 2 channel amp compare to a bridged 4 channel amp? I'm guessing the dedicated 2 channel would put out cleaner power? Or would it not make a difference if the bridged 4ch has same RMS rating as the dedicated 2ch?

Thanks

EDIT: One last thing I hope. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STINGER-1...ht_1450wt_1139 So I guess my question is this cable 1 awg or 0 awg. Cause it determains which fuse I need, 325A vs 250A, atm I've got a 300A to go with that cable. Using that bcae1 website as a guide.

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Originally Posted by 90civicGL

Another quick question, How does a dedicated 2 channel amp compare to a bridged 4 channel amp? I'm guessing the dedicated 2 channel would put out cleaner power? Or would it not make a difference if the bridged 4ch has same RMS rating as the dedicated 2ch?

Thanks

EDIT: One last thing I hope. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STINGER-1...ht_1450wt_1139 So I guess my question is this cable 1 awg or 0 awg. Cause it determains which fuse I need, 325A vs 250A, atm I've got a 300A to go with that cable. Using that bcae1 website as a guide.

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Depends on the specs of the amp.

That cable is 1 aught. its written as 1/0.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

as tbm said, it depends on the specs of the amp, but in some cases, the 4 channel can put out more power.. really depends on the amps and their bridging power, etc.

As for that cable, It is 0gauge.. once it hits 0 (or 1/0), the next thickness is 00 (or 2/0) as tbm's link shows. so therefore, 1/0 is 0gauge. :D

Ok thanks guys, got it now. :)