My ITR has 139.1hp@wheels (on very low reading dyno) and to get that much KW engine needs to be realy worked and tuned to perfection, it would take lots of $$$$ and time to do something like that
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My ITR has 139.1hp@wheels (on very low reading dyno) and to get that much KW engine needs to be realy worked and tuned to perfection, it would take lots of $$$$ and time to do something like that
I drive a 2stroke 100cc yamaha go-kart, 15HP@Wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by ewendc2r
Mods are current spec exhaust, venturi plate before TBody.
Whats your point?
Leave the guy alone.... I believe him, but yeah, I'd like to see a dyno plot regardless, at least that way (regardless of power) I can point him in the right direction on his a/f.
You're just here to criticise and spin shit about the bloke.
*cough* Yeah, and some people think they own the place... *cough*Quote:
Originally Posted by ewendc2r
lol -- Not exactly. In fact this is probably the first thread I've actually posted to.
ProECU - Didn't mean that as a stab at you - Moreso, if you had first hand experience tuning one of these motors for yourself, what outputs have you found to be still streetable? (purely a question).
Nice -- What have you done to get that level of output? Where was peak power?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim80y
I am tossing up whether to do a K20r swap (instant 190-200hp@wheels) or work the B18. At this stage, the K20r swap seems to be the way to go (minor mods, high power and reliability). After all, I would imagine you have spent more than $8k (cost of conversion) getting to 134kw@wheels on B18C.
fwiw - I only have a tad over 120kw@wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewendc2r
yes I have had first hand experience.
If a turbo car making twice as much HP as this is still streetable, why wouldnt something at 150kw. Suggesting otherwise is just plain stupid and suggests you have no idea how the concept of vtec (dual cam lobes) works.
good day.
I am not talking about 'turbo' or forced induction setup - I am talking NA.
I know exactly how it works, but 'usually' when you are wanting to make that sort of power you disable the vtec anyway and tune the cam timing (as you are probably aware). The change from a streetable primary lobe to a secondary much, much more aggressive lobe (that would make 150kw@wheels) would be spastic, and the longevity of the head components would be sacrificed. Generally anyone wanting 150kw at wheels would be happy to have it live between 6500 - 9500rpm on the trac and they wouldn't require the primary cam profile.
So - On an NA application, at what output did you realise that the car was no longer really streetable (i.e. the power band had shifted too high)?
There are B18C's in the US putting down 215-230whp however ask any of them and the car is basically useless below 5000rpm, due to extensive porting / head work, cam profiles/setup etc..
Good question.Quote:
Originally Posted by ProECU
I have mates of mine runnin turbod cars with at least 320 kwatw. They have no problem on the street.
I've got a few friends with NA cars that are pushin the 150 kw boundries as well. They also have no problem.
Although their engines do not have VVT or any other VTEC equivelant.
What makes you think that 150 kw and above is not streetable ewendc2r??
Is it because of the aggressive swith between the two lobes??
he doesnt know...
just keeps throwing the term "aggressive" to describe a cam profile without actually knowing what he's describing.
Well lets say that the switch over point can give the car a bit of a jolt. its not gonna be able to make the car "unstreetable" is it??
Even if it does become a little bit of a problem in the wet lets say, it can always be ironed out with some descent tuning can't it?? And possibly create more power in doing so.....??
http://users.bigpond.net.au/jimenez/pics/dyno5.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by ewendc2r
To get that figure I'm using pretty much everything Adrian has recommended in the Bang for Bucks DC2R Guide - Medium Budget:
Medium budget – Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system
#6 – Spec B camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / oil pump gear / fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning.
Power output: 128~134kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
I've got everything bar the fuel pump, lower final drive and oil pump gear; stock has been fine for me. Adrian did a great job tuning it, the ignition timing is very conservative; advancing the timing more than what it's at now didn't really do much. With the cams you really do gain a lot in the midrange and a good bit of extra top end. Whether bumping up the compression and aiming for 150kw atw would decrease reliability and driveability - I don't know.
All up in parts it will cost between 8-10k (at most), but you will have a quick and reliable daily driver. IMO I would rather work the B18C, you've already got I/H/E, just work with what you've got. A K20 conversion would cost more than 8k I think.
Don't doubt you.Quote:
Originally Posted by ProECU
On one of the first swaps I've been fortunate to witness, B18C R into an EG, more than 10 years ago. We were already getting over 200hp ATW NA, after modifying and tuning. While we used it for rallies, it was also totally streetable.