Tuning a Euro for the circuit...where to start?

you'll find a lot of parts for the k20 in the euro R fit the k24. From headers, intake, exhaust to flywheel, final drive etc. IMO, the k24 is a better base engine to have in a heavier car than the k20. Why else would people bother taking the k24 block form a crv and putting on a k20 head? "poor mans TSX engine".

Use what the euro comes with, it's more than good enough if your gonna seriously mod it, the only limitation is the short supply of tuneable ecu's. In saying that you can choose from MOTEC m400 and above and EFI Euro1 and above (both of which can run the euros drive-by-wire).

Well that's my opinion, do a bit of research and i think you'll agree.. staying with the k24 is the way to go :thumbsup:

hehe oo i found this video of a k24a tuned =P its in a civic thou and its vs' a k20a car http://youtube.com/watch?v=4yMSgESvUoQ&search=jrsc

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Originally Posted by Ajay-GD

Does anyone have any advice on how it would be best to tune a euro for a track event? I still haven't bought my exhast, headers, or intake.....and am still reviewing my ecu options....and any advice on the suspension? all the internals of my car are still a blank canvas....Im trying to get the best setup for the track...

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Sorry if I've missed it but have you been to a track event yet?

Nope MK, haven't been to the track yet

Go to the track first. Then you'll know which areas you need to tune/replace.

On a track top end power and gear ratios is more important. :(
Power drop in the Euro Accord at 5000rpm would be fairly annoying. Especially if after every corner that is the area u hit most!

If u want 9000rpm then its K20A! But honestly the stock Euro engine is better IMO as long as the ECU can fix the power delivery hole.

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Originally Posted by Omotesando

On a track top end power and gear ratios is more important. :(
Power drop in the Euro Accord at 5000rpm would be fairly annoying. Especially if after every corner that is the area u hit most!

If u want 9000rpm then its K20A! But honestly the stock Euro engine is better IMO as long as the ECU can fix the power delivery hole.

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Even if you had a 9000rpm K20A in your CL9 Euro, you wouldn't be able to make any use of the power as you would be encountering understeer as soon as you touch the accelerator in the 60km/h corners. For track, the Euro's engine is still ahead of the suspension. For the street, it's the other way around.

That's completely true in the first part.
But if u notice carefully I said 'after every corner'.
That is where the extra power-band from the K20 becomes mighty useful exiting a 60kph corner and onto the straight. It gives it more straight line speed with top end power, especially for that exit gear. That means a stock Euro engine wouldn't be able to chase after a higher revving vehicle.

The other thing is, with less mid-range torque, the car during cornering should react less to power-on understeer which is currently limiting the cornering ability of a better neutral chassis.

The main problem with the Euro's engine on the track is - as I've said, its lack of top end power. Lack of cornering exit speed. Also lack of speed as you change from one gear to another gear, with the torque hole.

Needs ECU tune.. :)

Well, a 20km/h head start is quite a bit. I am not sure if even a K20A CL9 would be able to get it back. If I am able to get that 20km/h back by doing only suspension work($2000-2500), I'd pick that over a 9000rpm K20A ($9000). Torque at the wheels depends if you use a CL7 gear box with the k20A. If you do, then the torque at the wheels is similar or even more than the CL9.

On the track, the engine is #3. The first 2 are the suspension (including tyres) and the weight. If it was only on the straight line, then I'd go for peak power too.

Just my 2 cents.