Flat Spot

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XB-16-AX

CEL light should go on when key is turned then after a sec or so it should switch off..

if ur CEL light never turns on, then possible bulb is dead or connectivity from ECU to cluster has been cut, damaged.

Its important and critical to have the CEL light working, as this will help greatly with troubleshooting engine faults. - well at least a good start to check!

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It works, it just hasnt come on while driving

Ok, tried to do this, but failed, i couldnt get a voltage outa the wires, i tried the pin through the wire.

Which colour is the one i should be loking at? (incase i missed one, theres 3)

also is there an easier way of checking the voltages?

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aimre

also is there an easier way of checking the voltages?

Thanks

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bring it to my place at Epping this arvo...

PM for details...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tinkerbell

bring it to my place at Epping this arvo...

PM for details...

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Epping is SO far lol. Ill give this one more try. Its the middle wire, from the plug that BEHIND the TB not the one on top.

http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/2025/craig3hj1.jpg

The thing on the TOP of that pic right?

yep - that is it...

if is an EG it might be light green, if it is DC it migh tbe red/black...

the plug must be connected to the sensor and ignition ON to perform the test...

0.52v idle

4.57 full throttle

well done!!!!!!!!!

ok, the specs for the "closed throttle" is possibly a little too high,

it should be under 0.5 when closed to tell the ECU it is closed...

a) check if your throttle cable has some play in it, if it is too tight, it might not close properly...

check this and retest - if it is still over 0.50v then see below:

b) try to adjust it by lightly tapping it with the butt of a screw driver handle, observe the voltage as you do this, an dont hit it hard, just tap it... if you can get it below 0.50v this way, then that is good!

c) if you cant get the voltage to change by softly tapping it, you need remove the throttle body and determine if the TPS is held on by screws or not - if not - you have to cut a fine grove in the top of the fasteners with a fine hacksaw blade to loosen them... if held on by screws - lossen and see below:

once loose, you can adjust the TPS to read <0.50v (i aim for 0.45-0.47v) without re-installing the throttle body, then re-tighten the fasteners and then re-install the throttle body...

check the voltage once re-installed, and test drive...

i hope this solves your flat spot...

if not - it is one thing that can be ruled out!

I got some more info.

i noticed after driving and arriving at a set of lights, the cars idle slowly drops down to like <500 rpm idles rough, sounding like maybe running on 3cyl. after about 5-10 sec of this, the car raises it idle quickly to about 1200 then drops back down to 750 and stays there for the rest of the time.

ALso today when when reving around 2500 in neutral, it sounded like the car missed a beat every few seconds seconds. Sounded like the gurgling u get sometime when backing off, but like, its one gurgle every few seconds.

i'd say you have a ignition system problem,

this needs to be diagnosed IN PERSON... not over the internet...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tinkerbell

i'd say you have a ignition system problem,

this needs to be diagnosed IN PERSON... not over the internet...

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granted, but who could do this, i dont want to pay a mechanic for hours+ work who cant find the problem

see page #1

your "location" isn't too enlightening BTW... Simpsons quotes don't really help anyone...