Camber kits (and poor design)

Just some feedback from me....

I have Skunk2 UCA's all round on my ITR

I inspected my front UCA's on the weekend and they are perfectly fine.

I have a Structural background and the design looks sound to me.

The problem that I can see, and I am not sure if it has been mentioned. Is that if a car is excessively lowered, when you hit a bump, the UCA can and will hit the top of the tower, thus the force pushing from the wheel through the UCA and causing the damage and failure.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ofIMG_9034.jpg

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Originally Posted by DLO01

Just some feedback from me....

I have Skunk2 UCA's all round on my ITR

I inspected my front UCA's on the weekend and they are perfectly fine.

I have a Structural background and the design looks sound to me.

The problem that I can see, and I am not sure if it has been mentioned. Is that if a car is excessively lowered, when you hit a bump, the UCA can and will hit the top of the tower, thus the force pushing from the wheel through the UCA and causing the damage and failure.

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Good stuff. I am glad they are holding up. They look like the redesigned camber kit and not the original design. You are right though about excessive lowering (and from what i have read from the US forums) is that it can destroy the top of the suspension towers.

Keep an eye out on the boot as well. Its hard to tell, but they looks like the boots are fine.

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Originally Posted by 2002 TeGgY

whats the best rear camber kit for DC5? my sister's car has crazy negative camber and it chews through tires like nothing else...

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MFactory Spherical Bearing Camber Kits for the DC5

http://www.teammfactory.com/images/p...amberkitep.jpg

I've got tein flex coilovers, probably about 2.5" - 3" dump and running these skunk2 camber arms aswell. They're starting to make holes in the upper panel (under bonnet) also. Wouldn't reccomend them. Gotta find something different to stop this problem. Will post up pictures tomorrow when I get a chance.

It does not mater what arms you put on, its going to do the same thing if your low.

Having trouble posting pics..

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7843/post1ga2.th.jpg

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4203/post2il8.th.jpg

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/1371/post3tk2.th.jpg

The camber kits are knocking up against the chassy resulting in formation of holes underneath the bonnet. Sorry about the pics, I've never uploaded images before. Wouldn't reccommend going for skunk2 camber kits (for civics anyways) if you were going to lower your car approximately 2.5 - 3" with correcting the camber to standard allignment.

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Originally Posted by civicem1

having trouble posting pics..

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What were your camber/toe settings without/prior to the camber kit?

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Originally Posted by Zdster

What were your camber/toe settings without/prior to the camber kit?

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I had 3.5 degrees on the fronts and 3 degrees on the rears. They've all been adjusted now. I'm running 0.5 degrees on the front and 0 degrees on the rear in regards to camber. Dunlop checked the toe settings and said they were fine. I'm not too sure what the exact values are.

Come on, you can't bag Skunk2 arms for that. Sure you might get a few more mm room from another product (different design), but the main reason is that your too low.

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Originally Posted by DLO01

Come on, you can't bag Skunk2 arms for that. Sure you might get a few more mm room from another product (different design), but the main reason is that your too low.

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i've seen other cars lower, they don't seem to have this problem?

What I am saying though, is that nothing is changing. You just simply putting another arm on. This 'distance' from the middle of your wheel to the top of the Arm remains the same. Like I said, sure you might get a few mm out of another product, but the main reason is that your too low.

Yep I know that. When I was running ek9 arms, I never had this problem. I only swapped over to skunk2 arms to correct my camber allignment as i was chewing through tyres faster than i could replace them. When analysing the arms, the main problem appears to be the positioning of the 4 main screws which are used to tighten the arm to the correct allignment. When the arm is knocked up, the 4 screws transfer all the energy to the chassy of the car resulting in the formation of punctured holes underneath the bonnet (small surface area). To avoid this problem, try to find an arm which has a flat superior surface so that if the arm knocks up against the chassy, the force is spread out evenly across the surface area. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kspor...spagenameZWDVW