Just thought I should post that the crack isn't actually as big as the photo makes it out to be- that's partially due to the fact that it's very very reflective of the white light coming down from the roof as well.
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Just thought I should post that the crack isn't actually as big as the photo makes it out to be- that's partially due to the fact that it's very very reflective of the white light coming down from the roof as well.
True, we will speak to our supplier and see how it goes.
ps. Poor Jo_E.
Sorry for the Hijack..but i guess some of the post is quite relevant.
Hey guys...quite URGENT..just need to clear my doubts..
One of my scuff plates is starting to rust abit (replica) for some reason prolly chemical attack from one of wipes that i used to wipe my dashboard... i need to remove that scuff plate immediately as it is getting worst.
SO basically i need to remove the 3M sticky tape thats holding it together. I need quick a solution to this.. Ive read this thread but im not too sure..so someone can clearly explain his/her experience regarding this matter. Thanks in advance.
if its good 3m tape, there is no way you can lift it off even with a hair dryer. I did my scuffs recently, removed my OEM ones for some aftermarket ones. each scuff took me like 30min to remove.
First, i got some metho and poured it into the gap until it sorta floods. Then a hair dryer to help it melt a bit. Used some fishing wire to cut through the ends so i can lift it up a little bit. Bit by bit as lifting the scuff with one hand, i pour more metho to the area. With a stanley knife, i slowly cut away at the 3m. Keep doing this process until you get to the other end. Do not force by ripping the scuff off. You will tear paint.
Hope this helps
little more confidence aye.... lol
adhesive u can break it down by using a solvent called "wax and grease remover"
or "prepsol" i know wax and grease can be found at supercheap, its safe to use on paint also.
cars these days are usually painted in 2pac enamel would have to use like thinners, to ruin it.
so yea those solvents can be used to break the ds tape down then just rub it in with a rag and it will rub-off.
edit - fishing line, ive read in DIY's works to cut through the tape, we use 3M DS tape and MS1 - 'windshield adhesive' to put
signs up, usually destroys the sign if u try to remove it lol.
Today... my installers had alot of trouble removing my old spoiler because the adhesive was REALLY DAMN STRONG (I now see the 'power' of 3M?)...
One side came off easier (because Hornsby Honda had forgotten to remove the backing tape from double sided tape- you know the red bit you peel off to make it sticky?!), but the other... they sprayed it a bit with silicone spray and had to use various things like string, cable ties, and eventually fishing wire?... eventually after a long time cut it through and we got the spoiler off. It left a horrible residue which took forever to get off. I believe they used something called white spirits to help loosen it, then scraped it off, and then polished before installing the wing.
Didn't get a chance to take a photo yet.
Jo_E's wing ended up going back to our importer because installers thought it would get worse. Importer gave us two options; send back to Japan Mugen or to repair it locally. Ended up picking the latter which apparently requires them to bring it down and then reapply the fibreglass or something like that. I'm not too sure... but the importer is paying for everything so that's a good sign.
My advice to you would be try to find out from your official Honda service centre if any of them have a "backyard business" if you get what I mean... they'll do Honda-quality job with the technical manuals and official parts for you at an awesome price.
For me, my guys charged me $50 all up because the Mugen Wing slides directly into the same holes. That being said, they also are charging Jo_E the same price. I think it's cos these guys do it for the fun of it and charge an arbitrary price rather than anything else.
The removal process was very long because the side which they had removed the adhesive backing from was very securely stuck. Took about half an hour for two guys (and me helping to hold the other end of the spoiler) to remove it (not including time spent on applying the spirit/polish to clean it up)- and that was only one side which was stuck down. If both sides were seriously stuck down it could take even longer so maybe try getting some mates to help hold it whilst you "saw at it" using string/fishing wire?
Anyhow, they used a grommett (small piece of rubber- similar to what you would use in your kitchen sink as a draink plug) which was black in colour, then they glued it in to make it tight, and covered it in masking tape for a few days to let it dry and fill. It's not too bad and you won't notice it that much. I also found out that Hornsby Honda did a dodgy job of cutting holes in my boot but they did not use the touchup paint to protect the holes from rusting! So that in combination with the "oops we forgot to remove the adhesive tape backing" lead me to believe that my spoiler wasn't installed properly at all. Did I mention I also had to take it back at one stage because it was very loose and rattling?
yikes. Im too scared to install my mugen spoiler now. Too many scary processes. Maybe ill see how much honda dealer charges to remove OEM then put the new one. If they wont install mugen for me, ill do it myself as holes are already there and all i need to do is plug and play. Then just tighten everything up. But then again, maybe just pay them so i dont find my spoiler flying away when i hit 100km down the freeway :eek:
1. Might wanna make sure your Mugen replica spoiler is of good quality. I noticed that my genuine one is considerably lighter than the fake ones I saw in Malaysia.
2. Your installers will likely do the same thing mine did to get your Modulo one off. All the holes line up exactly, but you will need a grommett for the 3rd hole on the left hand side (where the wiring to the brake light is)- i.e. for the Modulo spoiler, there are 3 holes on the left, and 2 on the right.
3. You'll also need to reconnect the wire from the spoiler light back to the original tail lamp inside your car.