Except that you don't lose spark when the plug temperature is high. What happens is your air-fuel mixture is being pre-ignited before the spark by the hot spark plug tip, making you lose power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
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Except that you don't lose spark when the plug temperature is high. What happens is your air-fuel mixture is being pre-ignited before the spark by the hot spark plug tip, making you lose power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
Emanage has a voltage clamp that. The ECU never see's anything above 0psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by DLO01
Hmm lets see the possibility of what this problem could be caused by.
A) A faulty map sensor, that when it reads above 11psi, totally looses its voltage scale and starts outputting crap. This is the only way i can see a map sensor causing the problem.
B) Spark being blown out because of incorrect application choice.
C) Stock fuel pump not supplying enough pressure (no detonation occouring).
yeah,makes sense also,depends on how fouled/encrusted/broken down they really are from operating outside their range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
time to have a look luke,post haste
Good info :) I hope luke understands this.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Im betting on a combination of gap (electrode wearing from incorrect heat range) and incorrect heat range -causing alot of his problems.
thats excatly what happensQuote:
Originally Posted by DLO01
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
Why did it just start now?
I've been hitting it far harder for longer then that 1/4 mile time
I'm think'n the 8 pound spring has loosened up a bit and letting a bit more boost then my last dyno
It was brand new last time I got her dynoed
im using bkr7e-11 ngk plugs on my boosted b18c7 with 1.0mm gap..........
depends what the tuner likes, or more what the motor likes on the dyno
What does your boost gauge say?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
How old are your plugs? What plugs are you using? I'd change them every 6 months if you are using the copper ones, and 12 months max if they are platinums. I'd still go 1 step colder because your higher intake charge means more heat produced than the standard NA tune that the sparks were designed to be run at.
Cheap gauge but reads about 10psi but was more like 11 last dyno but its hard to look at while on boost..Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Plugs are about 6 months old no more..
Standard Plugs Hannys use'sd and gaped but Adrain
try get some NGK copper ones, i jsut change them every 5000km which is prob a bit overkill but they are cheap so why not.
maybe pull out a spark plug and see how it looks and measure the gap if you able too and report back.
If you are maxing out the MAP sensor, then time to upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
What are standard plugs? If they are the $4 each ones, then they are copper and should be changed since you have used them for 6 months. On an un-stressed stock tune NA engine, copper ones are changed every 12 months. So I don't expect them to last as long on your forced induction engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Who brought up this silly map sensor theory? They need to be shot.
You can run 14psi on the STANDARD map sensor, all it does is stop reading at 10psi so u get a shitty tuning resolution.. It doesnt make your car magically got into reverse, turn its blinkers on, or make you a cup of tea. Seriously, get a clue.
Oops, just reread and he has a tune for his setup. As long as his tune adds more fuel in as the RPMs increase irrespective of what the map sensor reads after maxing out, he's fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
But there are those who still run stock tune.