Printable View
Like I concluded... if you like them, awesome!
I still find them crap, haha. But yeah they are alright for the street. Good from A-B, and adjustable also. But for mountain roads and trackwork... pathetic. And yes as Leo stated, they are really hard to match springs up to.
Vtec (do you mind if I call you vtec?...),
You'd have to be the only person I've come across with actual experience of Konis that thought they were "pathetic", or even close to that. The exact opposite is the usual case, including that many users seem to find they'll happily work with a wide range of spring rates, from stock to pretty damn stiff...
I wonder what was wrong with the ones you've tried? Were they set up badly, or worn out, of fitted to ridiculously stiff springs? Dampers incorporated into some 'coilovers' may be significantly stiffer than Konis, and thus provide a flatter ride and sharper steering response, but this doesn't necessarily mean they'll handle better, especially over less than perfectly smooth surfaces.
Another tick in the Koni box is that they have a very digressive force curve, meaning that as the shaft input speed increases the damper doesn't become linearly more resistant, but the force curve flattens out. This makes the Konis stiff at low shaft input speeds, such as occur during roll events (good for handling in general), yet quite supple over bumpy surfaces (good for handling and ride quality on rougher roads).
One thing I waill say against the Konis, is that on stock springs I find the bump rate is just a bit too soft (at least with my Accord). Fitting stiffer springs would mean that the spring carries more of the bump loading, and thus the Koni bump rate would most probably be more suited to somewhat stiffer springs than stock (not that they work badly with the stock springs, they work very well, just not perfectly).
It's probably a common misconception that stiffer springs require the damper to be stiffer in general, whereas my understanding is that in reality a stiffer spring generally needs a stiffer rebound rate, but not necessarily a stiffer bump rate.
May I ask where that was from, and when? I have a friend chasing prices on some for his EG Civic, and he hasn't found any below about $1000.Quote:
Originally Posted by e240
kekeke its ok :pQuote:
Originally Posted by e240
JohnL- Honestly it depends on for Hatch or Sedan (if they're not the same) and where (country) you are trying to source them from and how long you want to wait, though i am too interested from where
trader race nation sell em
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55668
other than that US
here you go john :)
i got mine here
their reply to emails and questions are SUPER QUICK
http://www.ipgparts.com/category_Shocks.htm
nice one guys. thats great. thanks for that!
LOL sure you can call me Vtec. haha.
Yeah they aren't baddddd, for the street they are good. But comparing them to a proper coilover system they aren't that great, and thats IMHO.
I just didn't have a good experience with my Koni's, bought them new, and they started leaking after 3 months. Hard to match spring too, and yeah just don't like them. Sorry. Oh and, 4 of my mate have them, and they are all screwed after about a year and a bit (15,000 km's).
The stock system is great... love them.
so Vtec! you rate stock dc2r shocks over koni Yellows ? were planning to get some yellows or dc2r shocks dunnoe which one to settle for. is there a way to lower your car without killing the shocks in the long run? cheers guys.
hey vtec, its funny hehe, i've had yellows in my accord for around 30 to 40,000 kms and they still feel as strong as day one.
however, with you having said that - i'm going overseas very soon and i'll try source some tein flex for dc2r while i'm there. If not, i'll setting on Koni.
Its always hard tryuing to find low K DC2R shocks unless you buy them first hand off a close mate. i was considering a set, but then the 'what ifs' came in. i.e what if Kms stated werent legit, what if these are actually stock EG shocks, whatif they were matched with lowering springs previously?
so rather than spend $100 to $200 on used shocks, why not spend that little more to buy brand new shocks .. or even second hand coils.
Don't listen to me guys... I have my own tuning ethics, LOL. I've tried a fair few products, while wasting thousands of dollar here and there. But i've actually found what is best for me, and i'll stick to it and promote the crap out of it.
I loved the stock feel and setup of the DC2R - so yes, I personally prefer the stock setup compared to Koni... well actually any shock and spring combo. Unless you 100% know what you are doing, and know how to match springs etc up to a shock, for your own driving style.
Considering none of us are race car drivers, or awesome engineers that can design a suspension system - it proved to be a costly exercise to trial different springs. I tried 4 different springs on my Koni's and they just never felt right.
Actually saying that I have driven a fair few heavier cars on Koni's, and they feel better. Perhaps they aren't the right shock for lighter Honda's... I dunno?
All I know is, if I had to pick coilovers for a DC2R, not any other car, as the car in question here is a DC2R, and that's what I have been commenting on (considering how twitchy they are, and how easily they respond to slight sussy modification) I would keep away from Koni's, or shock and spring combo's. I'd do it right, first time and buy a good set of coilovers that have been tested on the Track and Touge by real drivers and engineers from well known Japanese companies, ie: Tein Flex, Zeals, Cusco Zero II's, Fightex etc...
Also just wanted to bring up... it's alot easier to tune, say a Accord or Civic suspension wise, then it is to tune a Type R. Not saying Type R's are the shit, cos they are not... but there is alot more room for improvment in a accord or civic or prelude or what ever, than there is in a Integra or Civic Type R - and thus make suspension tuning for these vechiles a whole lot easier. You can even just slap some stiffer springs in, and the suspension is a mileeee better. These cars are built from the factory as commuters which have confort and Luxury. The R is meant for the track and winding roads (Touge).