You just did ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
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You just did ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
Put in my new 4750k Mtec High beams and LED parkers.
The LED's are verrrrrry blue :$
^^ PICS! You know the rules.
Faaaark i love HID's :3
hids are for ricers
were all ricers :P
http://tapatalk.com/mu/76d1f18f-2205-a9ed.jpg
http://tapatalk.com/mu/76d1f18f-221a-036c.jpg
None of high beams, camera did t pick them up too well. They're a lot more blue in comparison to what I'm used to, and to the low beams. But a much nicer colour
That's actually really nice!
Better then the green ones I took out of mine. :3
nice sigQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukey
Thanks Dubstein.
I just wish my corners were less oxidised, they'd be much prettier. They look great on their own, but because the lows are only 4000k, they look very very blue.
I'm thinking Ill get some Mtec 4750k low beams so everything matches.
Also! you can just see my Shark Attack II antenna in the background =D
Better shot of the antenna :-)
http://tapatalk.com/mu/76d1f18f-2db7-d9e2.jpg
^^ Pretty ballin :)
Im shaving mine sooner or later. Don't need that radio, ever. Aux ftw.
Not feelin the headlights and parkers dude... go white LEDs that match the lo. Leave the blue parkers to the commis
+1 HahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
I dont mind the look. I mean not a scorchingly bright blue.. But white with a tinge of blue is nice :3
Guess who just purchased new kicks? :3
whatd u get? any pics?
AHAHAHahAHHAHHAQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
I dunno what else to say.... so awesome because it's true XD
OT: washed the car in 25 minutes with Meguiar's Wash N Wax; looks so nice and shiny now :)
I agree completely. They're very blue. In saying that, they're an improvement over oxidized yellowQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
I want new kicks!!! Mine got brutalised last night :/
^ Haha idk if you answered me or not, mobile Facebook is being ridicules.. Get laid? :P
Hahahhahahahaha ssuuuuussssssss. Integra thread kgo.
Fit a set of Ohlins DFV's, removed front guard lining... and dumped it so front and rear tyres are tucking...
also did a minor service.
pics?
You'd think starting at 10am that you'd be done before it gets dark...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukey
You'd guess wrong. Pic's shall be up/taken tomorrow.
Sigh. If I wasn't saving for a trip, I'd have something to contribute. As it is, I haven't touched my half-completed car for months.
What were your old wheels, Dubstein? Up for sale? :P
Hahahaahahaha advanti medusa's 17", I'd hope you wouldn't disgrace a teg with them xD
cant really say today but yesterday i gave my car a service with nulon 10w40 full synthetic!
car runs so much better now.
Whats better for a honda 10w30 or 10w40??
What's the differences for using synthetic? Besides the ridiculous price... i'm not sure what mine is. It says "combined with synthetic technology" so im guessing it's semi-synthetic? 10w-40 btw. only ever used this so not sure what the differences are, but good price, especially when on sale
all depends on the condition of you're motor. usually most 90's hondas will burn 10W30 under heavy driving because it's thin and tends to burn on high revving engines with a bit of milage on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
the first number, in this case 10W, represents the base thickness of the oil. the higher the number, the thicker the oil is to start with, and the lower it is the thinner. most cars come out new with a 10W oil in them, or in some cases 5W.
the second number in this case, 30 represents how much the oil thins out under heat (high rpm, hot temperatures). the higher the second number, the less the oil thins out under heat and high RPM, which is a common cause of oil burning and blue smoke at high RPM. so with high RPM engines usually it's better to have something higher then 30 unless it's pretty new or really low kms i guess.
here's a range of popular oil viscosities in an order of thinner oils to thicker oils:
0W40, 5W30, 5W40, 5W50, 10W30, 10W40, 10W50, 15W40, 15W50, 20W50, 20W60
the best way to pick the right oil thickness for your car is experimenting on which oils burn and which don't.
say if you have a 10W40 oil in your engine, and it burns easily then it's time to step up to a 15W thickness. however if it only burns at the very top end then instead of a 10W40, you could use a 10W50, as it doesn't thin out as easily and can handle higher temperatures.
another thing to look for is oil "grade", this represents the quality of the oil in terms of friction modifiers, detergents etc. it is written on the back of the bottle in fine print and will be two letters beginning with S, for example "SL". the way you read it is the further the second letter is towards "Z" in the alphabet, the higher the oil quality is, or the richer in additives I guess you could say. the highest I've seen mineral oil is "SN" and synthetics go as high as "SM". generally I try to pick an SM grade synthetic for my car.
hope this helps give a better understanding :)
if it says "combined" then it is semi-synthetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
mineral oils are the basic oil design. affordable, comes in a large range of viscosities and can reach a slightly higher grade then synthetics. (SN)
synthetics are an oil thats designed to be fast flowing, and keep the inside of your engine clean of sludge, but are expensive.
semi-synthetics are a mineral oil with an infused blend of synthetic, designed to be a good balance between the two or a more affordable alternative to synthetic.
What do you mean by 'burns oil'? Like as in your oil level drops?
and i can't find the grade on the back of my bottle :( no fine print!
and ONTOPIC! hoping the weather clears up a bit so i can attach my rear visor
when oil level drops at an abnormal rate and you don't have any leaks, or drops significantly after driving it hard, or you're car lets out blue smoke at high rpm, it's burning.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
what oil do you have? I'll tell you it's grade. and it will be on the back somewhere, it has to be. might just be hard to find. :/
SuperDa9 is oil technician ;) Nah thanks for all the info dude, very helpful :) +1 so 10w30/40 would be good for say, a "95 b16a? and just say it was like "SZ" It would be ****ing ridiculously good?
Can't rep super-da9 since i did a while back wtf lol
I'm using castrol magnatec 10w-40.
I had a period when i drove my car hard for a while but my oil level has never dropped. Does that mean i should continue to use this oil grade?
haha all good man. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
well if SZ did exist then yeah it would be fkn insane lol. but SN is as high as it goes.
as to whether 10W30/40 is good for b16a, it depends on the condition of your engine. how many kms? I have a B18C2 tuned w/cams with 146,000KM on it and I run nulon 15W50 synthetic as it doesn't seem to burn. my engine revs to 8300RPM, which is where my power max's so I needed a moderate thickness that doesn't thin out easy, because when you rev high the oil thins out under the heat.
Magnatec is SM. thats a good grade.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
yeah man if the oils stays the same then stick with it, or if you change oils just use the same viscosity and grade. ;)
Cheers mate. Learnt a lot of new things bout oil today :)
^Me too :)
Umm just bought an ek4 today hahaha, 190xxx kms ( Bit high, but VGC, and really well maintained by a mechanic)(soz about wrong forum ;)) and thinking about using 10w40 synthetic honda oils? What you reckon?
Going from what super-da9 said about high revving engines with high kms, that 10w-30 might burn especially when revving high so 10w-40 sounds good? Why synthetic? If you change your oil every 6 months do you really wanna spend that much? I buy castrol magnatec for $25 5L bottle
Hmm well B16a revs to 8500RPM correct? even if it's in good nick, 10W is a bit thin for a car with over 100,000km IMO. I'd suggest probably use the same kind of stuff I'm using, a 15W50 as our engines are similar and both from the same year. but I guess when it comes to buying a car and doing the first oil change, you don't know what's gonna burn till you try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
also do you mean Honda genuine synthetic? like FEO ultra? if so thats actually a 5W40, I tried it when I first got my car and it chewed through it every time I revved it up. It's REALLY thin stuff. :/
all depends on the age and condition of the engine, normally in high RPM B series you'd wanna use 10W40 if it's below 100,000km and 15W40/15W50 if it's over 100,000km.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
but this principle changes depending on the condition of the seals in the engine, for example if the engine was overhauled, meaning the piston rings, valve seals/guides were all replaced you could go back to using thinner oil again, even if it was burning it before. also if the car's been extremely well taken care of and the seals are 100% intact regardless of having high kms you could still use thinner 10W oils.
the best way to find out if your not sure how the inside of your engine is like, is to experiment with different oils, starting with something on the thin side like a 10W30/10W40. if it burns it, then go thicker! 15W40/15W50. if it burns it, go thicker again! 20W50. if it ONLY burns at the top RPMs then just advance the second number. 30 to 40, or 40 to 50.
the difference between minerals and synthetics is basically quality, performance (lubricating and cooling performance), cleanliness and price. that said there are some really good mineral oils too. mainly comes down to how much you wanna spend. you should also change your oil at the same time regardless of it's type.
magnatec is fine man, my car ran happily on it when I first got it. good for economy too. :)
How is the fuel economy on your dc2? Any noticable difference using different oils?
Well it was a little better on thinner ones i guess, but not very noticeable to be honest. I don't really monitor it as I don't drive it daily and it's tuned for performance. :/Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Id like to use genuine Honda oil, just so i know what im putting in my car xD that and i don't know many other good oils :P
did you know that honda genuine oil is literally just caltex? it's even got the star on the cap and says caltex on the back. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
you can get the same stuff under the calibre brand name at supercheap and it's got the same star and logo to prove it. ;)
it's not "bad oil". the synthetic honda FEO ultra is actually a very good grade (SM) but it's just really thin stuff.
washed it
serviced it
how exciting!
Fuuuuuu- xD So what do you use/recommend?Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
sewed up a rip in my carpet today cause previous owner was a douche and ripped it to run amp wires -___-
How dodgy!Quote:
Originally Posted by DTN
Haha i was gonna get new carpet but cant be bothered taking interior out lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Dubstein
he didnt do a very good job with the headunit either, it fell out while i was driving back then
Bwahah, When i bought mine, he said he was taking all his audio out.. So i ended up getting cords everywhere in the boot, Only 2 speakers and a blown ass headunit that wasn't even wired up..
Today i looked in my car for my lost Harddrive.. -.- FML
Yeah it sucks that they try to hide that ay? well if your a spirited driver, I would recommend a similar oil to what I use. Also our engines are very similar. 15W50 Nulon Fully synthetic, or the same oil in 10W40 if you think it doesn't need 15W.Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
i use 10w40 RP in my dc4 w/ b18b2 on 297xxx kms
Penrite Everyday Full Synthetic 10W-40 here for my DC4. B18B2 @ 122xxx km's
Cheers for the advice guys. Probs look at 15w50, just to guarantee that its thick enough, wouldn't want to use like, 10w30 and have it chew through it insta xD
must be in really nice condition! good work for taking such good care of it. ever burn any oil outside of the normal rate?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukey
lol! you got no idea!
it blows a bit of blue smoke, it has leaky headgasket, sump gasket, cam seal gasket near the dizzy, i must top up 1-2lt every 5000kms
Oh sh*t, lol. better get onto that fixin'! :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukey
Gratz on 300th post :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
oh wow haha didn't even notice, cheers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubstein
depends on cost of vrs kit or a lower km used engine
B20! like a baawzzz :D
depends on costs of everything
Hopped in my boot and jumped around trying to get springs to settle faster... one side is higher than the other wtf!
That is ghetto as.
Worked last time... :(
Hahahahahahahahahahaahah sooooo ****ing awesome
is the drivers side lower?Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
happened with my coilovers at first, takes time to settle in properly. needs to drive around with passengers haha
Hahah, passengers? Chuck some bricks in that shit.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/kym-assets/e...jpg?1288903617
What springs did you get charlie? Saving my dosh for some next week *fingers crossed*
at the moment im on front oem with king lows. Rear pedders comfort gas shocks with king superlows. Ride is shit lol, heaps of bodyroll, train tracks are my worst enemy. I already had the front in for a few months, just changed rear 2 weeks ago. The right side about a finger lower than left side for some odd reason
Feels bad man :/
Not really doing anything to my Integra, but am in pursuit of purchasing one for my gf.
A 1995 vti-r shouldn't redline until just over 8,000 revs right? Also, the speedometer should go to around 230? I'm asking because I'm looking at buying one for my gf but I have no clue wtf cluster the seller has installed because it redlines to like 6,900 (gsi) but the speedometer ends at like 190 kms.
Imports top at 180 ;)
Yup, my redline starts at 8,000rpm and the speedometer reaches to 220km/h.Quote:
Originally Posted by act_gooner
So what cluster has it got? I'm confused. Would it be dodgy to buy a car with a different cluster?
i got king spring ultra lows if ur interestedQuote:
Originally Posted by cph3r
Yeah the GSi cluster redlines at 6900 and speedo ends at 230. VTi-R cluster redlines at 8000, speedo same as gsi. Maybe it's an LS cluster, or perhaps off a JDM integra of some sort? Does it look like this
http://www.jdmshit.com/UsedParts/JDM_LS_Cluster.jpg
From a JDM DB8. Was the kms he listed on carsales the same as the cluster?