Wow,that is a great price. I paid $284 a few months ago.
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No chance of me getting to Smithfield so am just back from Eastwood Tyres... Picked up a set of 17" RE001s for $265 each fitted and balanced with valves etc. Really great to deal with and car feels much better on the 20min drive home but my original RE040s were totally donald ducked.... :zip:
All in all a :thumbsup: for Eastwood Tyres. If you call tell them Jon sent you and that you read about them on here. I told them all about the forum and how we all shared prices etc. :cool:
FWIW, Bob Jane Hornsby wanted 276 and Bridgetsone Hornsby wanted 278 for the same tyres on the same day... neither would discount...
I reckon ADVAN AD07 235/45/17, it is better than RE001 and only $1100 for a set...if any people want them i can help u guys out. pm me for more information.
regards
Interesting read:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=100
Yeah, AD07 is grippier than RE001. Not sure why RE001 is so expensive in 225/45 R17. Can you get AD07 in 205/55 R16?
OK guys I need help and reading all 21 pages didn't help me much.
I'm not driving on racetracks, I'm just driving on suburban roads and freeways.
My OEM Bridgestones have had it after 39,000kms and Ringwood Honda have quoted me $450 each to replace them ... cough cough yeah right, guys. Well, they also suggested Yokohama for $250 (although at the time I didn't ask which ones).
So now I need new tyres for my Accord Euro Sport 2006. Cost is more important than performance, although safety is more important than cost (and noise is a factor too). I'd be happy to pay $300 rather than $200 if the tyre was going to last twice as long too.
So how do I choose? Any suggestions for further reading? Or just tell me what to get?
Thanks guys.
Isnt it funny how some people have different experience with tyres. Over the last five years I have been trying to find some tyres that would last as long as the original Dunlops on my Euro.(36000k's)
Yokohama C drive was one I tried and only got 15000k's out of them, and VERY noisy after a bit of wear.
I wouldnt go near Yokohamas again.
Out of all the "top name" tyres I have tried on the 140,000k's I have travelled in my Euro, Michelin tyres were the tyres that came the closest, to emulating the performance of the original Dunlops.
I have allways paid top dollar for top brand tyres, but it seems to make no difference to how long they last.
I have just purchased the cheapest tyre I could find, which was a "Maxxis" brand for $175
My driving consists of 160k of highway driving on the M1 from Gold Coast to Brisbane ever day, and have often wondered if the concrete surface of the highway has any detrimental effect, causing me to only get 18 -20000ks from any tyre.
We put Yokohama C.drives on one of our cars in 2005, and they are still on now with lots of thread after driving over 33000km (original Dunlop SP2020e lasted about 30,000km before losing chunks of rubber off the shoulder. Less than 3mm left on the indicator too). The C.Drive is also quieter than Dunlop SP2050m and even my RE001. I'll let you know when they are worn out. THey are a hard compound tyre, so they are NOT for thrashing around on the street with. If you do, the tyre wears very quickly. These tyres are for sedate driving.
Why were you trying to emulate the performance of the Dunlop SP2050m? The performance was so bad that I think even Nankangs would have out-gripped it.
Yes, concrete roads do wear tyres quicker. Have you tried any softer compound tyres like Bridgestones on this concrete highway?
Hi all.
Thanks for all the advice. I also spoke to a mate of mine (WRX freak) who'd just put on the RE001's a couple of months ago and was VERY happy.
So in the end I went for the Bridgestone RE001's. Got them for $215 fitted from Bridgestone in Box Hill.
So far so good, only driven 10 mins in busy traffic so far.
I'm approaching 100,000km's just put on a new set of yokohama c.drive's 17/225/45, coming from dunlop sport maxx's (they lasted 50,000km with about 3mm of wear left)
So far I've noticed the yoko c.drives are the quitest out of all three set of tyres I've gone through, handling wise they are quite up there with the oem or the dunlop's but i was after a quite tyre so overall I'm happy with that for $200 a corner I can't compain. Handling wise the Dunlop sport maxx's were the best hands down and much quiter then the oem's.
has anyone noticed that the new standard euros that come with the 17" wheels have 225/50 tyres? and not 225/45 tyres like the older models? :)
do the new euros have a bigger wheel arch? lol
are u saying the 2003-2008 model euros with 17" wheels should have had 225/50 tyres?
Does anyone have a view or experience about/of Dunlop Direzza DZ 101s?
They seem to be rated as either Dunlop's Premium tyre or one down from Premium and above SP 3000s.
try www.tirerack.com they got reviews and all sorts of stuff.
hes talkin 09 nigra
As well as the new 09, which aaronng correctly states comes with 225/50R17 tyres on the 17 inch rims, he was talking 03-08. I was just providing correct information on the 03-08 tyre sizes for the 17 inch rims. For all I know, he could have just made a typo.
IMO, the Dunlop Direzza DZ101s type tread pattern would be nosier than the Premium; which for now in Oz is the Dunlop SP SportMaxx. The SP SportMaxx we have here has been superseded in some parts of Europe by the Dunlop SP SportMaxx GT and the Dunlop SP SportMaxx TT. The TT is the highest performance Dunlop at the moment. As far as I know, we haven't got them yet.
See the range at: http://dunlop-tires.com/dunlop_dede/...es/uhp/summer/
It gives a better idea of the Dunlop pecking order which in Europe is (highest performance at the top):
SP SportMaxx TT
SP SportMaxx GT
SP SportMaxx
SP Sport 9000
SP Sport 8000
SP Sport 01
SP Sport 2000/2000E
SP Sport 3000A
damn serious? TT and GT.
only recently put SP sportmaxx on my 18" and find them pretty decent + quiet compared to stock though.
and also NOTE that the tyres can be manufactured in japan or germany as when i got quoted german produced tyres were approximately $100+ than japanese which were going for about $220-240/corner.
Taleb Tyres is doing Dunlop Direzza 101s for $180 a tyre in 225/45 R17 which is very cheap compared to tyre dealers I have had quotes from generally. That seemed to make them a good buy IMO as I have read reviews and they seem to be pretty favourable. The price is more what you pay for falcodore 235/45 R17s around the place. One guy on the forum says he has them and they are quiet, grip really well and ride nicely another says they are noisy so it's a bit of a lottery I guess.
hey guys, i'm up for replacing all 4 tyres (16inch), i've called hornsby bob jane about the RE001's and they've sold out now. They've recommend the Pirelli P6000 for the same price ($165). what do you guys think? Are they similar to the Pirelli Dragons? Or should i just go to any bob jane and get the RE001's for $189 per corner since they on special now?
have you tried calling other places, other than bob jane? e.g tyrepower etc.
from what i've read on reviews and stuff pirelli sidewalls are too soft.
@ 165 a corner for 16's for the Pirelli's I'd give it ago, Bridgestones are over priced i paid 200 a corner for yoko 17 inch rubbers
P6000 for $165 is a rip. Dragons are hard compound, up there with Yoko C.drive. Ask another bob jane telling them that you got quoted $165 to see if they can match.
Yeah I thought that too but it seems that 2000 series (not the lesser 200 series) of which the Euro Standard stock 2050M is a derivative, is considered higher than the 3000A which was, until the recent closing of the South Pacific Tyres factory, manufactured in Oz as well.
just a quick unrelated question coz i don't want to start a new thread.
how much can i get a set of 20 tapered locknuts from? including that adapter thing?
i don't want to get ripped off when i go to bobjane or something. do they sell locknuts anywhere else say at autobarn or something? and can you really trust those cheap ass ones if autobarn or supercheap sells them?
I got a set of 4 lock nuts for $25, $2 per tapered lugnut. They were just standard steel ones
Hope that helps
if you don't trust them then go japanese(aluminium racing) lock nuts which will set you back $200-250/set.
sets normally come with the adapter socket except maybe the cheapy ones, make sure you get the right lug pattern and style nut (acorn or tapered)
damn, i paid like 9.6x more than what you did for lugs.
But then mine were lightweight aluminium 5zigen pro racer ones, and im still scared they might fail and pop off cause aluminium is softer.
Wished lugs were cheaper.
yeah, i sorta thought that too so i rang around a bit and the best i got was $175 @ Tyrepower in Hornsby for the RE001's so i'm gonna get those done. $175 still isn't that bad when everywhere else is doing it around $210.
and if anyone else wants to get them, apparently a few guys told me there's gonna be a price hike on them at the end of the month.(possibly due to end of sale??). so just a heads up for you guys.
also thanks alot for everyones opinions.
prob why german made tyres are more expensive than jap made, in quality wise.
how noisy are those common directional tyres compared to normal tyres? and i'm assuming the cheaper the brand the noisier they are?
Hi Aarong,
I have just been offered 225/45 R 17 Dunlop Direzza 101s for $180 a tyre. What are your thoughts about those?
Hey mike, i have them too now. Got them from taleb tyres, i only use my car for street and they're pretty good for the price. Just wanted something cheap but not dodgy =)
I got my 225/45 R 17 Dunlop Direzza DZ 101s today for $180 a tyre. I was quoted $290 for the same tyre by a Major Tyre Franchise so I think I got a good deal.
Have only driven about 150ks on them so far but they are quiet and the grip was great when it started to rain on the way home and the roads were wet and greasy.
So far so good :thumbsup:
i got 18" x 8.0"
so i would be looking for 215/45/r18 correcT? im quite confused about this lol.
looking at
bridgestone re050A
bridgestone adrenalin
yokohama advan sport
225/40/18 would be better suited.
whys that ?
im wanting a bit thicker for a bit more comfort.
im currently on 225/40/18 with 8.5" width rims. how come 8" can use the same thing ?
Conti sport Contact 3s if you can afford them.:thumbsup:
Hey guys,
I've bought myself a spare set of 17inch wheels.
the Rears are 17x9 and i was hoping to fit 225 wide tyres on them. Will i have any problems? Will i have to go to a specialist or will most tyre shops stretch fit the tyres on for me?
225 is on the line... 225 is recommended max with 8.5
so 9 is.... really on the line but u can try i guess but i wouldnt to be on the safe side lol
wouldn't risk it cause then you are more prone the scratch the rims.
would rather have the rears on 235 if 9".
I would rather have 235 but I've already got the 225 so thought it was worth a shot.
I'm going to go ahead with it, i'll let you guys know how i go, not to confident now though.
just that you have to be very careful if you hit the gutter, cause you won't have that much protection on the wheels.
he wont be going fast anywayz, hes on damn airrunners lol
yup, u should see my gutter rashes... gg me...
i use touch up paint so its not noticeable when far lol
i am still 100% perfect no gutter rashes even from my right wheel running over a gutter edge.
BTW, Sumitomo HTRZ3 , what do you guys think?
well well....i had a minor car accident today, and i'm blaming it partly on my tyres.
i bought some second hand wheels and they had some crappy brand tyres on them and i hadn't got around to changing them yet coz i'm lazy, not to mention strapped for cash.
so today, i approach an intersection (red light). road was wet from the rain, there was a slight curve on approach to the intersection.
http://www.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en...872678025,,0,5
^ google street view if u want to see where it happened.
anyway, there was a car at the lights in the right hand lane turning right, and i wanted to be on the left hand lane.
i was approaching a little bit fast (nothing too crazy), and when i started braking i could feel the ABS going and my wheels locked up, and i clipped the rear corner of the car in front. my car just slid all the way forward like i was on ice.
if i had better tyres on i am almost certain i would have had better grip and wouldn't have slid so far.
i was just wondering though why my wheels locked up and if VSA was working???
anyway, partly my fault for braking a bit hard, but the moral of the story is DO NOT BUY SH!T TYRES.
pics soon.
VSA corrects your oversteer/understeer as i tested it on track as you oversteer the line your taking, it flicks your car back on the line + cuts power to the car.
ABS is like that it locks your front wheels/rear wheels, e.g in a situation like a race track you would aim the steering off the track so when ABS activates you will guide it safely rather than causing an accident.
IMO - VSA does not really coincide much with ABS itself but cuts power/brakes when in emergency oversteer/understeer situation.
BUT SOMEONE ELSE WHO IS MORE EXPERIENCE CAN CORRECT ME IF I AM JUST A SPAMMER. :p
Don't tell me you had some chinese branded tyre or Antyre or something....
Tyres are more precious than you think, top quality branded tyres make a big difference in stoppage time and distance. *touch wood* but can mean the difference between life and death.
Here is my tyre setup;
Brisdgestone Potenza RE001 Adrenalin 225/45R17 94W.
They are wonderful!
Huge grip, minimal tyre noise. ;)
good tires are a must, while rims can remain stockies
may I ask how much you grab your 001 for?
Any of you guys know how much RE001 in 225/40/18 would be?
cheers,
anyone tried bob jane xenon tyres yet? i keep seeing ads on tv for it and was wondering if they're any good.
I scored Bridgestone Potenza RE001 Adrenalin 225/45R17 for $225 a corner at my local bridgestone tyre centre.
Excellent tyre and huge amount of grip!
They work well with a touch of toe out on the front and -1 toe in on the rear.
-1.5 camber front and rear.