Fork it out but they did it a bit cheaper..Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Was out of warranty anyway
Fork it out but they did it a bit cheaper..Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Was out of warranty anyway
lol exact same prob i had.... mine use to boil like a kettle i cud hear it for a while from the inside wen i'd stop the car lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
mannn i seriously need to turbo my EG..
heh
love the setup btw..
lol yeah man its hella fun :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by B147ch
so lay it on me.. how much am i looking at for this setup?
soo sick of everyone saying "D for donkey" :P
thus far its cost me about $4000 max for 160kw at the fly :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by B147ch
D + boosted = B series killer
lol
w00t w00t..
i know what i'd take..!:cool:
Or in Limbo's case B series Turbo = kills all :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
so where are the 1/4 mile times?:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Yeah Limbo!!! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
well if someone wants to help with tiling & painting then i can goto the track and get some times
yo luke, got quoted $3,300 shipped FTW ramhorn turbo kit.
missing injectors and hondata.
any suggestions?
injectors add about $450 & $1,000 for ECU + $850 for tuning.
Did it come with fuel pump? if not another $165
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by B147ch
I'll PM you all you need tonigh when I get home
sweet.. cheers..
heh boosted civ all the way heh..^_^
GReddy KitQuote:
Originally Posted by B147ch
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDD...spagenameZWDVW
RC 440cc injectors
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RC-IN...spagenameZWD2V
FMIC Piping
FMIC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-SER...QQcmdZViewItem
Not to sure about that one as the guy I used is no longer listed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
so you do tiling and painting on a wednesday night? from 6pm-10pm?
Don't be scared to run a shit times, everyone does it.
i've been tiling every night from 7:30 to 10pm. I only get home at 7pm, have dinner & then work on the house. There is always seems to be more to do
sweet.. thanks bro..Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
You know you can install that kit and boost that day without the extra parts added as its make to run on low boost before upgrades are :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by B147ch
Hey Guys
Here's so info on my progress
Old actuator at 11psi
http://www.doubledynasystems.com/Car...02-02-2008.jpg
New actuator at 10psi
http://www.doubledynasystems.com/Car...05-05-2008.jpg
Clearly the new actuator helped a hell of a lot but still needs more..
Not sure if its the 2" exhaust or I need a electronic boost controller..
it's the 2inch exhaust man.
ditch it and go for a 2.5 inch.
First thing on my list when I get back from Thailand...Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
i'm only running a 2 1/2 you know.
Dunno if i should increase the exhaust, but i'm trying not ot spend too much on the car now.
You are loosing like 2- or 3psi up top. and boosting 500rpm later with that new actuator. I think you are one of the few people who have ever upgraded the greddy actuator. Its known to be weak, but people have goten 14psi out of them.. My stock one was fine for 11psi, once wound up to hold 8psi off the actutor. Solid till redline. Boost controller is the deciding factor. I used a profecb spec A and B, only the B would hold till redline. U can also try the turbosmart eboost, HKS EVC, blitz ID, apexi avcr. I wouldnt run anything else.
Oh and your exhaust is defaintly holding your power back in the upper rev range.
My first graph had basically the same boost curve are your first graph:
http://www.doubledynasystems.com/Car...02-02-2008.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/weq/dynocivic.jpg
You can see u are making peak power quicker with the 2" (more low down torque), with about the same spoolup (cause i had a stagger 2.5" downpipe) but topend, you can see the car breaths alot better. At redline my car was making 7-8psi. At 4500rpm it was 10psi. tapered off cause of the turbosmart MBC.
Yeah I have an eboost-2 on my eBay watch list :thumbsup:
And 2.5" sitting on my deck..
Once I get back from Thailand both with be done...
My actuator was so weak I'm amazed it held any boost, I could put it out with my little finger unlike the new one..
I think even without a controller and 2.5" the higher rev's the actuator should hold up.. But yeah Electronic Boost is really the only answer...
hey Luke is it the smaller one or the larger one?
If you get a 2 1/4" one wanna swap for a 2 5/8" one???
I'll even throw in the cup for it.
Oh maybeQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Your girlfriend got yours for ya right?
2.5" booked for next Sat with Hakan at Performance Exhaust!!
Couldn't help myself heheh
lol if i had time i'd go by and see you.
Yeah the GF brought mine for me, but if i can swap with a 2" one then i can put them in my dash, out of view.
Mines pretty much brand new Adrian installed it for me, i'm sure you rem.
I'll even give you the gauge it replaces! (most likely oil temp)
Just before I buy it I'll call ya but it won't be till I get back from OSQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Hey what's Performance Exhaust address again I lost the dam thing you send me coze..
Cool, that's fine cos i'm not really driving the car as i've been busy just renovating, how long you gonna be away for?
Performance Exhaust Centre
All Exhausts - Custom Made & Accessories.
Unit B6/23- 25 Windsor Rd Northmead NSW 2152 - get directions
ph: (02) 9683 5688
damn that dyno is sexy!
heheh Yes I like it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by B147ch
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Thanks for the info bro
I'll be away for just under 2 months
2.5" Exhaust installed... :thumbsup:
Heres my new dyno with nothing ells touched not yet re-tunned
http://www.doubledynasystems.com/128...10-05-2008.jpg
almost 8kw just off .5 inch"?
Yup but the boost is also a bit higher now more air moves throwQuote:
Originally Posted by kazam
good job bro! now u gotta get it to a strip and find sum times 2 play with to!
Hell yeahQuote:
Originally Posted by kazam
Never been though so I'll sux lol
gotta start somewhere. GL!
lol guess soQuote:
Originally Posted by kazam
Have been what how did ya go?
i've never been! still only rocking d16y1 was gunna get g-reddy kit like you, but i dunno, i need a new gbox, and im not allowed 2 drive boost foranother 2 years anyway, and i love the scream of DOHC vtec so im considering a b18c swap for now and in 2years swap boost that legit!
If I was not with AAMI I would have gone a swap then boost but they don't allow different model engine swaps..Quote:
Originally Posted by kazam
B16's only make like 30kw more boosted and the motors heavier anyway
i wanted 2 join the d-series boost club lol but i dunno, cant get enough of DOHC vtec >,<
Man if you can't drive boost then for sure go the swap!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by kazam
PS
Liverpool!!!!!
lol yeh but i llove a good flutter, we'll c wat happens will probly do the swap, p.s. uniited > liverpool, thats y we're top of the barclays and finals of the CL.. :)
Yeah I love rock'n the flutter!!Quote:
Originally Posted by kazam
No BOV here :thumbsup:
woah luke!! 130wkw awsome stuff 13sec car easily there... just remember practise makes perfect when it comes to the 1/4. dont expect to run your best times strait up.
Thanks LyleQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
13sec would be very nice but first my aim is low 14's
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
only after months on convincing from me
Thanks Alex :pQuote:
Originally Posted by aimre
How's ya bike going?
ur getting closer.
Very close to my target....Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
Con Rods are the weakest part of the Y1's yeah?
Can forged ones be installed from the sump?
With rods i belive most if not all H-beam rods (eg EAGLE) require your block to be machined (notched) so the crankshaft can actually turn around. If not the H beams will not clear the internal block just under the water jacked. (lookup D16 SOHC block Notching for forged rods) You will see what i mean.
You would most likely need Ibeam (crower) or Xbeam (scat) to not require any block notching... This MAY mean you can do a bottom entry sump install.
Crower and Scat > Eagle. But much much more expensive.
Best just build your block properly man if your gonna open her up. Budget... vitiars pistons + eagle rods are very good value and some setups on turbod16 are even running close to 400whp
Yeah manQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
I've been look'n at
Bottom End Kit
http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=170
Forged Con Rods Need Notching of Block
http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=269
Rated to make about 450whp
Awesome Luke!!!
I'm with AAMI too but if that's the case I'll just change companies... as long as it's not expensive I don't care who I'm with.Why did U want to stay with AAMI?
d-series boost or b-series is the million dollar question.Driving me mad!
Yeah I have a family thing with AAMI so I can't change, well I could be it would be a pain in the ass....Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Ah I see.Those pistons etc in those 2 links are a great price as long as shipping isn't a killer.Buy em' both at the same time of coarse.Hopefully he will do a price.
Postage is $65 US :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
I've e-mailed him already
I don't want to bother with Notching the Block so different Con rods will be needed and they will be a lot more costly
Crower.... but dont buy them down under. make sure you source from usa.
lol I buy everything from the US :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
What do you think the bottom end kit?
Stay stock man. Stock, keep the tune updated and u will be safe for years to come. FJT is a pourto rican who has been flogging of these cheap kits for a few years now. Generally they are regconised as very good value for money, but its not a traditional build. Execpt any engine builders to scoff at the parts and tell u everything is clearenced wrong.. But the general consensious is it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
My advice though is stay stock. Builder only if u need too.
How about just upgradint the con rods from the sump?Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
This is main problems with boosted D's yeah?
Thanks bro
So there's no gains to be had from the bottom end kit?
Yeah huge gains but at huge costs installing lolQuote:
Originally Posted by beeza
THere only advantage of a bottom end kit is it is stronger ... and will allow you to run more boost... or you can slightly increase capacity.. oversized pistons... maybe a d17 crankshaft (unsure of possibilites there)Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
plus you make pickup a bit of power as its rebuilt and there will be less power losses from heat, friction, noise etc
It seems best to get another block,because they are cheap,bore it out,put in oversized pistons etc etc then when completed swap it in.Or if you were keen,P&P,valve job etc another head and swap it all in.
This way you can take your time and have fun.You will have spare parts from your motor now too.
thats kind'a the plan :)Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Good to hear cause it definately seems the best way to go and the most funnest.No pressure.
thes look good
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160240135194&fromMakeT rack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagle-Connecting-Rods-H-Beam-Honda-D16A6-D16Z6-D16-ZC_W0QQitemZ180168248405QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p37 56.m20.l1116[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Cheap too!![/FONT]
Man you should really just be happy with your car as is now. Drive it around and enjoy it for a bit... Give yourself a chance to think about where you wanna take your car next.... 130wkw... you can have plenty of fun with that..
LOL i remember a Ek B18cr with ITBs and all the nice goods that couldnt even make that.
Hey LyleQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
To tell you the truth I’m so impressed with the power that I’m waiting for the bubble to burst and something to go pop lol
Now with the new exhaust she doesn’t die between 6-7 RPM’s and accelerates beautiful
I'm more than happy with the power and was just thinking of ways to make her bullet proof......
lol told ya long time ago to fix the exhaust
i bet ya that Ek b18cR with ITB will smash a D series 130kw EG. Anywayz if thats the car your talknig about its doen a 13.5 on street tyres.
So if you ever get a chance to get out to 1/4mile and run times, please post them up as a good comparison to B swaps.
can you explain that too me? the one i sore only made 120wkw? how does a heavier car with 120wkw car... beat a 130wkw lighter car ?
Oh yeh i know where this is leading... people will take some of the first runs he does... (that deffinately wont be his best) and say thats all its good for.... ant they will compare it with someone else who has 100time slips to pick from... and squeezed the absolute maxium out of it.
Jimmy & Lyle
Please don’t start this ongoing argument in my thread!
Agree to disagree lol
My thread was about value to power gains not who beats who with what dam motor...
Go whip some Rex's or 300Z or whatever ya hate with your little Honda's :thumbsup:
Might make ya feel better ;)
Thanks
I will but I'm new to 1/4 and my driving wont do my cars power justiceQuote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
LukeZen
100 timeslips? err he ran it 4-5times at the drags.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
As for power...PEAK POWER MEANS JACK SHIT!....
Its like that 12 sec city or whateva it was ....Claimed 110 kw in a 700kg shell will do 12sec. I have driven it, tuned it and fark it won't even hit 14's.
Apologies Luke.
Go out enjoy your ride, and enjoy the fact that you have alot more cash left sitting in your pocket then some other people
I guess The torque of a turbo means just shit too eh...?
Isnt that why there is the saying. "The only replacement for Displacment is Forced Induction"
Yes i will agree to disagree.