If you don't want wheelspin or torque steer at the front buy a charade.:idea:
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If you don't want wheelspin or torque steer at the front buy a charade.:idea:
charades get mad wheel spins lol. especially the F2 Detamaso
LOL you'll make anything wheelspin ahah
I will make you spin chris * wink wink *
ahaha here we go
Just tuned a motor I put together last year,
RSMachine 84.5mm
Standard rods
Standard head
ITR cams
Toda headers
ITR manifold
Injen CAI (I'm starting to not like these)
2.5" catback
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6543/anthonyb20.jpg
It has an arseload of midrange when you shift into the next gear, it wheelspins like crazy on the street.
My comments on the build, considering it was put together without any porting anywhere, it's obvious it's running out of air up top, I didn't want to throw more timing at it there to make up for it due to the compression as it is. I'm interested to see what it puts down on another dyno as IS Motor Racings dyno is pretty conservative, BYP's B20vtec put down 143kw there which is only 10kw more.. damn dynos! :p
excellent work mate! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
may I ask why you're starting to dislike the injen cai?
I don't think its the right length for these engines, they seem to be a little too long. I always get a drop in midrange before vtec too.
FYI Chris- 143kw was on 80% throttle.
Setup looks good. I've seen this 90% similar build make similar HP.
lol ok
my car was only 50% throttle and almost got that power because the cable was stretched:). nice power but think it might be abit of a high reading... dunno everyone to there own opinion.
Looks good & clean mate... :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
You're right, in some instances the Injen can be bettered. Make your own on the dyno for each engine is by far the best way. (But not many people want to pay for it.)
To stick with the Injen & semi sort your issues, there's a couple of quasi fixes...
The std B16A intake manifold can help you out with the low end, personally I prefer the B18C2 2 stage intake.
Then there's cam timing. Retarding the exhaust cam (to increase the overlap) should do the same, looking at your curve, I'd guess between 4 & 6 deg (crank).
The other is ignition timing. You mentioned you didn't want to throw any more timing at it up there due to the compression. Try going the other way from about 7500... You may get a similar result doing the same in the later part of the low cam map too.