i tried mine upside down but it fit betta up the right way. just gave it a VERY gentle bend..Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Printable View
i tried mine upside down but it fit betta up the right way. just gave it a VERY gentle bend..Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
i think i tried it upside down allready and it was real close, but will check book incase i havent lolQuote:
Originally Posted by menacer
so did you bend it only enough to give clearance and thats all? like for me thats 2-5 mm>? (ish)
cause yeah saving 70-80 on a FPR would be awesome,
ill take a photo of mine today and try upload it this arvo. but yea didn't bend it much. atm it has clearance when on but is still a bit tight to get into place.
id take pic of mine, but im in a complete diff situation atm, im using a b16 rail so needed to bend the fpr more lol
awesome mate , that would be heaps cool if you can!!Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
so your using a b16 rail on a b18?
with photobucket which sharing option do i need to get the photo to work? cant get it to put this fpr pic up.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSC_0097.jpg
figured it out.
as you can see i bent it just enough so its quite tight. i found it easiest to bolt it to the rail then bolt the rail down.
thats awesome, i see how you did that, ill try it your way i think.Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
hey guys,
is there anyone who has a skunk2 T/B able to take a pic of the TBS on there T/B??
mine fits, but the wires going to the TBS are stretched and i don't like it lol
also when my mate and i where removing the TBS a little peice of plastic on the corner of the TBS where the 2 bolts lock it into the T/B snapped, it still fits new T/B , its just that the plastic broke off the corner, so do you think i can still use it?
many thanks
TPS?
the plug end just sits out towards drivers side, shudnt have to stretch too much check ur loom so if any slack otherwise extend wires if same sensor im thinkin off shud be 3.
long as no air leaks out of the sensor ur fine, tho dont think there shud, cuz its just movement, but it does have gasket so somethin might.
Ahahahah yeah TPS , sweet man, i made it so there is no direct hole through the cracked plastic on the >TPS< to the inside of the T/B and did it up with 2 bolts anyway so its held down tight so no air can go in, so hope that will b fine, and yeah its got that lil gasket as well. one day when i actually finnish all this ill be able to test it lolz.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
=)
lolz ok so ive got most of the intake done, just got 2 questions
1# The evap Purge control solenoid valve has two attachments for pipes,
a small one on top and a bigger one bellow the smaller one,
on the stock T/B the bigger hose from the E.P.C.S.V goes to the T/B but on the Skunk2 T/B there is only one connection for the map sensor located underneath the throttle body. so i just wondered what that big hose is supposed to do , and where im supposed to connect it??
2# The other thing i needed to know is on the fuel pressure regulator if it is sitting normally (not flipped) there are two pipe connections on that , bigger one on bottom and smaller one on top, where does the smaller pipe connect to with a hose?
thanks guys
let me know if u want pics to help
=)
cant help with q1 as im not at that stage yet lol.
as for q2 it connects to the outlet on the front of the manifold. only need like 10cm of vac line
lol all good man , just need to know what it does so i can figure out where to add it...... maybe with a 2-into-1 hose connector or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
big hose goes to charcoal canister
he means the other end as in runs from charcoal canister to ??? on skunk2 t/b n manifold setup.
oh right haha
my skunk2 tb has a port for that :S
i think cud be thinkin of my old blox one, ill check in a bit
i rememberwat i did now
my blox tb had a port but basicly all u need is some pre tb air to it
so i just connected off my intake which had a spare port
AHHHHHHHHQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
So you mean that i could just send it to one of the two outputs on the intake close to the throttle body and that would be ok???
That would be awesome indeed =)
yup yup thats wat i did
I swear to god it started off "ill shout you a beer" for all your help man,Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Think it's a lot more than that now,
Sooo happy that its that simple lol
cheers man
Are snap ring pliers a must when removing transmission housing? and i want to re-use the snap ring ......
has any one notice a increase of da's on the roads in sydney? ive seen so many in the last 2 months =) LOL
The trouble with snap rings is the many different sizes, but to answer your question, yes it is advisable. Pliers are not a good choice as they will 9 x out of 10, not get a good grip and when they slip they usually damage the hole in the snap ring which then makes it harder to get a grip with either tool. Problem is, depending on where the snap ring is mounted decides whether you need straight, angled or right angled snap pliers. Can work out expesive if you only need it for the one job. Don't be tempted to buy the cheap interchangeable end pliers, they just break.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
Have you only recently bought your DA? 'Cause it's a funny thing, noticing the number of similar cars to your own often only happens once you get one yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by adriano10
Thanks, i was tempted to buy the cheap interchangeable end pliers, because i prefer paying $9 =) and they worked just fine , snap ring off and snap ring and snap ring groove are not damaged, i can see how they would just break though , very flimzy .Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
lol ive owned the car for well over 2 years =P so yeah lol and only just realising theres heaps going around nowQuote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
At least they did the job, which gets you out of a hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
I think they were quite a popular car when new, even one of the parts dept guys at my nearest Honda dealer reckons he wouldn't part with his.Quote:
Originally Posted by adriano10
ok,
so got the transmission housing off the 2nd gearbox, cleaned it all up so its ready, started pulling apart my tranny, got to the 32mm socket bolt that covers the snap ring, and it wont budge, its starting to strip ,
so i put some RP7 , still nothing, any ideas before i use a grinder ? lol
too late , i got it off nicely lol,( i got 3/4 of a YS1 transmission housing if anyone wants , lol)
reverse gear has a little chunk outta 2 teeth
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_4177.jpg
:eek:
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_5741.jpg :eek:
:wave:
mine is broken in the exact same spot lol
over tightened by previous owner, i jb welded it shut lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
must be a common problem true
basically today i figured out that the cheap interchangerable snap ring pliers work fine when removing the snap ring , but are vertually useless when installing snap ring when installing housing lol
was trying to practice on my mutilated YS1 housing with no luck =(
Did you have to allign the stopper ring's finger tab???? i couldnt find it anywhere lolQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
whats happening to the da9 meet up fellas? in melb? ;D
hey guys . i was installing a SRI on the teg it had 2 small tubes. one was for the engine (DUH) and other one for the intake manifold. Noticed that the tegs manifold had two tubes connecting to the OEM air pipe. So what i did was I got a "Y" plastic tube and connected it to one of the tubes for the SRI. Just wanted to know if what i did was right??
Yep you will be fine
Hi guys,
Tried for ages with a mate to get tranny on , got closer than ever, but wont line up flat, should it just slap up against the block flat or does it need a fair bit of persuasion???
or has anyone ever used the top three bolts to get that last few mm of clearance closed? im too scared im going to Fcuk it up,
need help please
=( .
Clutch is aligned..?
Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Used the alignment tool best i could , got down and had a good look after i did it was aligned and tight and it looked centered and it feels like it nearly all the way in =(
hmm... spigot bearing not on weird angle? other than the the only other thing that should stop it is dowels not lining up or wiring etc getting caught...
Thanks man , gunna go check all that after dinner =)Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
hey fellas just wondering if you guys know what size are the main 3 bulbs in our da9 clusters. planning on buying some amber bulb covers and i dont know how to explain it to the guys sellin em. from research ive got 1895 , 53, 74 . which of these? thanks
Best way I've found when dealing with things like this is to take your ones with you. Then you can be sure you won't be making double trips when you have to take the wrong ones back.
thanks
Got it in , i think it just wasnt aligned well enough , took alittle jiggling but its all done up now, thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by menacer
your welcome :)
ok so my Da is nearly ready to be started for first time and just wanted to ask how to go about the initial startup, (not sure)
So i am using:
ex auto b18a1
matchd with a Ys1 tranny
4-2-1 extractors
Skunk2 I/m
stock T/b (read that any aftermarket T/B is illigal in VIC so put stock back on for roadworthy, then 70mm, lol)
Stock Intake untill i can inclose my weapon R Pod
stock fuel rail and injectors
stock ECU that was in car with old manual B18a1
So should i just connect it all up and start it? or flash the ecu? anything like that ?
old engine was running shit so hope that wont stuff me up , just wanna make sure the ecu wont be like
"hey WTF your not my engine GTFO" or sum shiz lol
Thanks
yeh ull be fine,
i started my car on stock ecu with alot more mods than that haha
ull prob have a shit idle tho
my old engine used to idle like a retard, 900k >2500k>900k>2500kQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
you mean like that? or alittle bit shit
cheers man
yeh prob flactuating idle
never got a decent idle while iw as untuned with the skunk2 im and tb
anyone in SA have some integra hubcaps? car is hellastock and looks bad with flaking hubcaps, and i want to sell soon sadly..
can you get the air resisnator box out without taking off the front bar??
umm prob if u take the wheel arch guard,
but prob easier taking bumper off
you can take it off from underneath on a dc2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Latino CRX
dunno how you go with DA's
did it this way b4Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
i got mine out without removing the bar... 1 bolts a lil tricky but its doableQuote:
Originally Posted by Latino CRX
ahh kool no worries thanks for the replies .. :)
I definitely took mine off without removing front bar but the last bolt was a bitch !
all in all not that hard to remove front bar though, when i did all this grass , leaves and dirt fell out , gave it a good clean !! hate that shit lol
Has anyone seen a digital climate control from the jdm spec integra's anywhere? Wreckers or someones front yard? Mine took a dump and it's been a mission finding a replacement.
Good luckQuote:
Originally Posted by stocky
Thoughts exactly =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
I have jap spec teg and eg6......Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
teg one is going nito my dc2r and eg6 one will be DIY ingenuity into ef8...... because ef8 one sux dogs ballz.
Theres a DIY somewhere actually where someone put the EG unit into the EF as the EF/ED ones always crack
The DA6 ones are not worth the hassle, it looks better but thats about it
Yes, I've seen that DIY.Quote:
Originally Posted by stocky
Only problem is that DIY refers to manual climate control.
I have eg6 auto climate control unit and ef8 with auto climate control.
Have to figure it out by myself
I may have a spare 1,Quote:
Originally Posted by stocky
just need to find it first
Awesome, that'd be awesome if you can find it. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by espionage85
im going to be giving the C2 all new earthing lines..
just wondering what size gauge do alot of you guys run ..
or would it be better to get one of those earthing kits ??
Hey guys, got a problem with my DA9 integra. Today I replaced the timing belt and water pump, took my time done everything properly. When I finished the car wouldn't start. I checked the timing marks in case I might have missed a tooth, but they are perfectly aligned. I checked the fuel and ignition. The fuel pump is priming prior to ignition but when I try to start it there doesn't seem to be any spark. The Main relay is working fine because the engine light turns off after a few secs of ignition. Any ideas plz. I would really appreciate some suggestions. Thanks
sounds like timing pic of the gears lined up please
yeh seems like ur timings still off
pull the spark plug out of cylinder 1, (closest to timing belt)
put a long screw driver in it, then ratchet ur crank till thats tdc and go from there.
Thanks heaps guys for your reply. After hours wasted on checking different things including the timing marks and positioning.....
It ended up being a coincidental case of the distributor. The coil shit it self. I just bought another and now working as good as gold. Thanks again for your help.
Just wondering..
any body knows how strong the DA9 gearbox is? ...and whats the best preformace gear oil to use in it, for smother gear change. Thanks.
I'd hate to tell you the number of times similar things have happened to me. Your gremlins are alive and well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rami
Far as I am aware it's the same as any other "B" engined G/box, just different ratio gears to suit it's application. If you want to keep it OEM then genuine Honda oil is the way to go. Personally I use Castrol VMX80, gives smooth shifts. But of course no oil is gonna fix worn parts especially synchros.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rami
While on the subject of fluids, check your P/steering fluid. Dip a twisted piece of paper into the fluid in the resevoir. It should be clear (no colour), if it's slightly dirty looking (greyish)it means it's old but most likely OEM. If it's pink or reddish then some ignorant person (or careless service dept) has topped it up with ATF (auto trans fluid) which is a definite no-no for Honda's. Will pay you to get the system drained and then change the fluid a couple of times with genuine Honda P/S fluid.
I was looking this up for myself recently to make the same decision - Manual says Api service grade: SF or SGQuote:
Originally Posted by Rami
from what i have researched,
Most people say they prefer normal 10w 30 motor oil or Honda MTF
Some use Royal Purple syncromesh
Apparently you have to be careful of using pure synthetic oil , some say they mix 1/2 and 1/2 but all in all , from what i was reading most are happy with 10w 30 or Honda MTF
We have one of the members on another forum who races a CRX B series using VMX80 in his G/box. I would'nt use engine oil and I definitely wouldn't mix synthetic and mineral oils.
Do you know what VMX-80 is worth mate?Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
easy to get?
cheers