You'll get it at any of the accessories shops. Supacheap, Repco etc. I think it was about $30 for 4 litres. I've just put it in my Gen2 CRX's G/box (D16A8) that I just registered, changing gears very nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
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You'll get it at any of the accessories shops. Supacheap, Repco etc. I think it was about $30 for 4 litres. I've just put it in my Gen2 CRX's G/box (D16A8) that I just registered, changing gears very nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
VMX80 I shall use then. What do you think of that additive that people use in their gearboxes, for extra gear lube? It comes in tube, and gets added with the gear oil.
I wouldn't bother, all the additives and modifiers are already in the oil. A lot of those sorts of additives are just thickeners supposedly to "fix" worn parts and stop noise etc (which they don't, believe me, I have tried them in the past Haha). Just a waste of money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rami
Bit late, but I'm really happy with Honda MTF06. My 2nd and 3rd used to grind a bit, but ever since changing my box oil, those grinds have gone away. I do realize the MTF hasn't fixed the gears, but as long as they no longer grind I'm happy.
i have a grinding sound coming from my catatlic convertor area...it only makes the "chinging sound" when i free rev hit but at only the highest pitches....and also when i am driving at a constant pace....what do you guys reckon??
Check the spring loaded clamp bolts where the engine pipe joins the "cat". (loose or broken spring), and if it's still got all the stock exhaust, check for loose/broken rivets on the heat shields. If you've also got dress tips fitted at the back, check them also. Mine rattle at certain revs. (gonna rip'em off one day)
Does anyone know whats the closest coil-overs to the TEIN DSA32-KUSS2 SS in handling and quality? I ordered a set of TEIN's for my DA, after I paid the seller tells me that they are not getting stock from tein till Jan, and I need new suspension now. My stocks a stuffed. The seller offered me a close match as he put it, with the Ksport KP series. I don't know anything about them. Now I'm left to find a new good quality set of coil-over struts for around $1300. Can anyone point me in the right direction plz?
heard skunk2 sports series are good :P
ive never tried them myselves
but ksport is a pretty good brand, id go for those
ive got tein ss, there bit too soft even on hardest settings
otherwise u can always change ur front forks to dc2 and backs to dc2r and go to type r coilovers, alot more brands come up
Yeah your choices are alot broader with the dc2r swap but adds around $400 on top to begin
K Sports would do the job but how long they last is questionable
For 1300 I'd be trying to get a more established brand
forks are easy to find eg or dc2
type r lcas if ur lucky u can get em cheaply
Like me xD
Someone on here is selling a set of DA6 rear LCAs which will fit the DC2R struts. EG/DC front forks are a dime a dozen, I picked up a set a while ago for about $20 just in case I ever want to go for a later model setup.
i thought da6 lcas where actually quite diff??
Nah, they basically put the strut at the correct angle for the DA chassis whereas although the DC2R ones will fit they make the strut angle in a slightly different way. Never heard of anyone havin any issues though. If I could find that damn for sale thread, the seller actually has a side by side pic of the 2.
haha i threw my da6 lcas away not knowing :S
Serious? I am just trying to find out if the end bushings are the same on the DA6 and DA9. I have read one post on another forum that says they are but never confirmed it, suppose I could just take them off and have a look.... Want to know so that I can get a set and replace the 20 yr old bushings with new ones
Anyway, here is some good info- http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1059140
Does mention that there is a 2mm difference in width of the box section but that would be easy to get around.
yeh when i had my old suspesnion setup and was moving everythin over i threw em out, i didnt know at the time that dc2r had similar setup lol :S
Sorry guys I'm new to all this suspension modding. Just to understand this correctly..... Are you saying if I buy DC coilovers I can fit them on my DA, providing I change my forks?
if u buy just dc2 coilovers, so non type r, all u need is the front forks..
if u buy type r coilovers, u need the rear LCA from a type r as well
What about car height and suspension travel etc... Does anything change?
well if coilovers car height is adjustable...
im pretty sure with dc2r coilovers there a lil shorter, so u get less suspension travel
but generally the travel is up to how low ur car is
If I get the aftermarket LCA's and front forks (with the adjustable camber)for a DC2 typeR. would they work like the swap with OEM type R on the DA?
Hang on a second I think you may be confused. There is no camber adjustment on any parts we are talking about!
Front- to run DC/EG/DC2R standard or aftermarket struts (coil overs) you need to replace the thing that looks like a fork going over the axle and joins the base of the shock to the LCA. Reason being is the shock diameter is larger than the DA, the fork is actually narrower too but this should not cause issue.
Rear- you need DC2R/DA6 LCA which have a 'box' section to fit the eyelet style base of the type r shocks as opposed to the fork style base on other DA/DC/EG which are all the same. The DA has a longer shock which means you will get more travel when swapping and could result in bottoming out although this is rarely an issue with stiffer springs.
So in summary, for Type R suspension you need to change front forks and rear LCAs, for VTI-R/Civic suspension you only need to change front forks.
Camber will not change in any of this, To adjust camber you need to do something with the front upper control arm and the rear camber arm attached to the top of the trailing arm. Options for the front include a whole new arm, adjustable balljoint, adjustable brackets etc, you can not use any parts aside from those designed for the DA without complication.
For the rear you can get longer bolts and washers to push the bracket further out from the chassis or just get a full adjustable link which are the same for the later chassis as well.
I have dc2r suspension on my da6. I've had both Tein Type Flex and Omni power full bodied coilovers. They feel great but the difference in shock length will piss you off.
The fronts when adjusted all the way down will not go low enough, whilst the back at full height setting will not go high enough. The height adjustment range will be limited.
jumping in half way through a convo here
But so saying that ^^ for the best Height adjustment range your better off getting DA9 made coils?
i want range also,
I wanna take my car bush (camping) lol and to the track
and anyplace in between lolz
http://users.tpg.com.au/vuong112/teg/IMG_2013.jpg
My car above, the front is adjusted to max low and the back is to maximum high. I could have adjusted it lower by taking down the spring preload on the front, but handling would have been adversely affected.
I ended up using the dc2r Tein flex and had spacers made to increase the shock length at the back. The car sits higher now and I'm happy with that.
To answer you question though, da9 specific coilovers would be the right length, shorter in the front and longer in the back and you will have better height adjustment
Great news for me today, the seller emailed me today and said that he found a set of TEIN DSA32-2USS1 SS-P Coilovers for DA Integra. These are the next model up from the ones I was getting. They are $300 more than the ss series. The seller said if I pay half of that, (The extra cost) he'll be happy to send them for $1450, due to the first sale going wrong from his end. Sweet!! now I don't have to worry about a DC conversion. Just on another topic I installed cold Air intake, and extractors. Now my car is leaning out. I could tell from the spark plugs being white and the performance some what decreasing after 4000 rpm. Can anyone help with that issue plz?
Not 100% sure on this, but did you reset the ECU after installing the parts? Did you install the O2 sensor correctly, and all the vacuum lines to the new intake?
Out of curiosity, which intake and headers did you get? I'm thinking of getting some Megan 4-2-1s from ebay, comes to about $250 landed. The reviews on G2IC are mostly positive...
EDIT: You may want to take a look at this: http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...g-for-the-buck. Someone is saying that the pillowballs make the ride very hard, makes sense... Seems like they're really only good if you're going to be tracking your car?
Post pic of plugs
I didn't know about resetting the ECU. I done a bit of research and reset the ECU this morning. Took it for a drive after 10min Idling, and noticed a difference. I'll drive it for a couple of days and check the plugs again for their color. Thanks for the tips though :)
If any Melb. DA guys need a front strut bar PM me. $100
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/9946/18072010032.jpg
hey guys quick question, went to check my ignition timing this morning but couldn't find anything to line the mark on the pulley up with. am i looking in the wrong spot or is mine missing sumthing? also on da's no. 1 cylinder is the one on the furthest from or closest to the distributor?
#1 is front of engine (pulley side)Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
there should be timing marks on the timing belt cover.
there 3 lines on the timing belt cover, and one mark on the pulley.
1st cylinder is one closest to timing belt, so furthest from distributor
cheers boys thats wat i thought. n will see if i cant find me some marks
hey guys, just wondering how i would go about putting a k20a into my da? is there much stuffing around??
an essay is needed to answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9teg
other option is to read up other people's threads on this forum to gather information.
theres actually a bit of support for em mod wise nowQuote:
Originally Posted by DA9teg
hasport make a conversion mount kit and so does innovative i believe.
after that everythin is basically the same as converting another honda
as bludger mention theres alot of started threads on it
ahhh, yeah i've searched around and can't find much, i'll take a third peek thanks guys!
everything is the same as other Honda's exept for the mounting the engine in part.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9teg
Search g2ic as well think there's some there
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...ar&distance=25
bit of car sales searchin i found a da6 haha
It is not the same as other Honda's, prob the ED CRX is the closest. As far as I know, theres only one K20 DA in Aust.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9teg
The biggest issues you will have are with the front crossmember, the brake proportioning valve, axle lengths and hydro-cable clutch.
Try k20a.org. Seems to be mostly Civic/Crx related but the EF8 Crx's were very similar to the DA9's, so might get the info you need from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9teg
More info on the only K series DA?
Looks quite nice that one, I can't help myself and check carsales all the time to look for interesting integras for sale!Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
The was a auto carby d series one for sale not long ago in Adelaide too, was asking about $3.5k and it seemed to sell really quickly, no idea why...
yeh i saw an auto carby 4 door one
Spewing I never bought this.Test drove and got her down to 6k and never went back lol
http://digiads.com.au/carsales/used-...ds_91409_4.jpg
http://digiads.com.au/carsales/used-...htm#adPhotoTop
They still gavnt sold that!
That's been on sale since I wrote my car off. Year ago
Wait its still available?
I just assumed its sold long ago lol
I tested it like 3 yrs ago
Oh ha ha nvm
Was for sale,last yr tho
damn, I'd get that if i weren't broke....
If they can get a "K" into an ED or EG Civic you'd get one into a DA9. The EF8 CRX & EF9 Civic use the DA9 front crossmember, and while their engine bay is a little longer than the earlier ED9/EF7 to accomodate the B16A engine, the DA9's is even longer because the radius rods (traction bars) of the DA are longer.
Width wise the DA and EF's are the same where it counts. The track on the DA is only 25mm wider than the Civics, at least 1/2 of that is because the DA9 front LCA's are 6-7mm longer than the EF's but the inner pivot points for them are the same distance apart, so look up any threads on K's into Civics/CRX's and you won't be far out, if at all.
hey guys, just installed my Tein SSP coilovers, and they are superb! I reckon : the best suspension I've ever bought. Just have a question.... Does the external coil setup (MSD) make a noticeable difference on the DA9? ....also does anyone know of a tut for setting cam gears for a higher power band? I haven't actually bought them yet, but any opinions on a set of good cam gears. Cheers.
Coil overs specifically for the DA or were these for a DC? I am sure you have already posted this but I can be bothered searching back..
msd coil is kinda pointless unless goin stupidly high hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rami
and it actaully screws up tuning real time and datalogging with hondata(i know from expierience)
so id save ur money.
cam gears, dont do much by there own, again from expierience, they more beneficial with cams
Yeah you can make pretty good power on the stock disi,its only when youre talking big numbers like 250kw atw or more
They are the actual DA coilovers. Just a question; What does it mean when the coilovers are adjusted all the same (measuring from the bottom of thread to the tensioner, but the car does not sit the same all around, as in the measurement from the arch to the center of the rim. Its like a 5 to 10mm difference. Mainly the back two coils. Should I adjust them even and not worry about the actual coilovers measurement, or is there a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Has anyone done an LS Vtec on a DA on this site? ....and is it worth doing? Like what sort of HP increase would I get?
Adjust the coil overs to where you want the car to sit, not by measuring the thread.
The B20 thread will give you a lot of info, basically the same as LS/VTEC just 2L instead of 1.8- http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...cussion-thread
As for power, expect about 100kwatw, if everything is standard. Of course you would be wanting to do I/h/e, possibly cams etc so that would increase the power.
IMO I would just go for a B18C (obviously!) that way you have a bog standard starting platform for a beginner which makes the same power. I would only suggest LS/VTEC if you know what you are doing. By the time you factor in a new gearbox etc the C would be only slightly more expensive.
Thanks for the info. From reading about all the different types of setups there are, it looks like for the money I would spend for a Vtec setup, it would be better to throw in a turbo running low boost with a high comp engine. I thought I wouldn't go down that road again.... LOL! Unfortunatly Vtec isn't enough power for me on its own. I'm after at least 200kwath+. Looks like to get that sort of power out of Vtec, It's going to cost me way too much. Have you still got your turbo DA? If so... How reliable is it, and what engine setup are you running?Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Yeah still got it. Makes 165kwatw on 8 psi. In the future I am looking to upgrade manifold and exhaust atthe same time as intake manifold and TB and hopefully make around 185. At the moment it is plenty of power for a decent fun car though, traction is a big issue due no no LSD. Bit scary coming on to the freeway last weekend and had to boot it and front wheels start spinning in 3rd gear at 100kmh when you are trying to get going!
As for reliability I couldn't really comment! This is a weekender only. Been turbo for about 3 yrs and took a while to get cooling sorted out but now with a big radiator and oil cooler I have no issues with heat at all and the only other thing was when it developed a slight hesitation when cruising but that was a simple tuning fix.
Engine is a bog standard B18C which made 104kw with intake and exhaust on the same dyno.
Btw, my stock B16A in the DA6 made 82kw on the same day as I made 165 on the same dyno for comparison sake.
Hows the gearbox and drive shafts holding up? Have you gone through any since the turbo was installed? Did you rebuilt your engine before turbo, or still using original engine with original K's?
Driveshafts are fine, just had the boots re done as I had all the suspension off and they were just starting to perish, thought may as well do it while everything else is out. They checked all the joints and there was no problem at all, would have done it myself but seriously messy job and just couldn't be bothered!
Looking to re do my gearbox soon, axle seal is now leaking (I didn't damage it when I removed the shafts, I swear!) throwout bearing is making noise and the synchros are crunching from 2-3 and 4-5. Don't think any of that is related to going turbo though, biggest reason is cos I want LSD.
Engine is totally stock and original, no smoke and consumes pretty much no oil at all. The engine had an estimated 70,000km on it when installed and I have done about 40000 on it
Old oils seals will usually leak once they have been disturbed. In your case you'll replace them anyway when you do the box.
Quick Question Guys:
Is the amp rating of the da9 alternator 80 amps?
Thanks guys
Anyone ??? is it 80 amps???
Cheers
its an 80 amp fuse so maybe?
Cheers man =)
Hey guys, Is anyone using a skunk2 cat back exhaust system on their DA9? What do you think of it, and is it a direct bolt on?
hey all, just wanting to know what good sway bar setups people have on their Da's? I don't want to go too stiff of a rear sway bar. I've found it difficult to find many places that have them too. Is the ITR setup good for our cars?
Ive got whiteline front and rear made for the da9Quote:
Originally Posted by 91type-r
24mm front and 19mm rear, i believe
im yet to fully test it on a track, but pretty awesome setup
people said if you upgrade front u get more understeer, im getting less so idk haha
whiteline dont make the da9 ones anymore. so you gotta find them used.
otherwise theres a kit from the states.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ST-ANTI-S...item2c5c99f1c7
rears are pretty interchangeable with bit of modding, but front is diff.
anyone done a b18c2 swap? just wanna ask about the ECU and tranny. from what i know,
1) pr3 obd0 vtec ecu's would work however cant i use my obd2 ecu???
2) cable tranny? what do i need to convert into hydraulic?
3) intake manifold, change or retain ?
best sway bar setup : Ultra Racing :) pm me if ur intrested
as for b18c2 swap, Cable tranny to hydraulic tranny is very do-able there are ready conversion kits all over the net.
Intake manifold should be the same from memory
dno bout ECU.
Change if you want to more power=more money. Edelbrock is generally considered pretty good on the C2 but go for I/H/E first and if you ar changing the intake mani you really should get a tuable ECU as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
1)if i run p72 obd1 from a 94-95 teg with a conversion harness, would the stock intake manifold work perfectly??Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
2) what cable should I use for the tranny?
3)will i need to get the distributor for the obd1 p72 ecu or just use mine??
ANYMORE ISSUES REGARDING THE SWAP?
? Now I am confused....
If you want to put a B18C2 in your car it runs a OBD1 or 2 ECU. You use the harness for that motor which plugs straight in to the distributor, injectors, alternator etc. And swap the ECU harness as well Basically you don't use anything from the B18A. The P72 ECU will run the stock P72 dual intake manifold perfectly.
If you are using a cable to hydraulic adaptor for the gearbox, the standard cable works. You will need an aftermarket mount from hasport or whatever to accommodate the different gearbox.
Get the P72 power steering pump as the pulleys are different and you will need to swap in the new PS lines.
Throttle cable will need to be swapped.
That's all I can think of right now off the top of my head.
Ok just read your thread in the tech forum.
You can use an OBD1 ECU on a OBD2 motor with a conversion harness.