^^any input would be much appriciated on this one guys...
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^^any input would be much appriciated on this one guys...
why do you want aftermarket ones? OEM looks best me thinks on an otherwise standard looking car (post up some pics?) there is nothing local, but plenty of options available from eBay or US online stores, IMO dont get the projectors! the clear ones with either chrome or black housing look ok though. I believe that you will need to do some minor re wiring as they are designed to replace the USDM glass headlights but pretty easy to figure out. I would think that they should be adjustable enough that you could correct them to the right angle and not be high beaming them cos they are designed for the other side of the road.
thought I would post up some pics of my recent purchases thanks to Stevo, lookingforboost and kikxz.
Whiteline 18mm solid rear swaybar, 1,6kg for the standard item and i can bend it with my hands as compared to 3.5kg for this thing and stiff as.. Thought I would try it out for a while before upgrading to an ASR setup sometime in the future. makes a HUGE difference to the handling of the car, I cant believe I lasted so long without one..
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/9501/sam1820.jpg
Type R S80 '98 internals, need a new final drive but they including LSD will be going in to the YS1 case from Stevo. Also full trailing arm setup with replaced RTA bush
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3830/sam1828i.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/8409/sam1831w.jpg
Ogura clutch to go with the YS1 box, I am currently running a Y1 in the DA9T and spline size is different to all post-'92 B series boxes
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9219/sam1829e.jpg
JG Edelbrock VictorX manifold and 68mm TB, hopefully will be good for the turbo top end, low down torque is not an issue so can afford to lose the dual stage runners
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8864/sam1836m.jpg
and my new very slow project... needs a lot of work but already has a B16A, just wanted something unique and have to feed my DA obsession! working on getting it registered in SA at the moment, major issues are 3rd gear crunch and rear main seal needs replace, fix dodgy repair job on the rear quarter panel and replace trailing arm bushes (hence other purchase..) although i didnt know that at the time! bad photo but yes there are 4 doors.
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/8969/sam1825x.jpg
also got some aftermarket visors and a couple of other bits and pieces. aside from the sway bar, nothing else much is going to happen while I work on the DA5 and try I am supposed to be saving money for a 6 week trip to China in August, then getting married in Feb, hopefully I get a good bonus this year so I can afford to fix all this up before installing!
what you doing with old y1?
At this stage it will be staying in the car at least until September, needs a bit of fixing up itself but still runs ok for the time being. After that, dont really know, I will probably have fixed up the J1 from the 5 by then so probably wont have a need for it anymore
keep us posted:)Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
I'm on the lookout.
no worries, got a S1 from the red LS i need to get rid of... if you like looong ratios! thinking about taking the 5th gear from that and putting it with the other S80 gears, with the 4.7 final drive it should do about 3500-3600 at 110kmh I reckon as compared to about 3800-3900 for the Type R 5th?
type R 5th is 100km/h 3500Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
120km/h 4000
with 4.7 FD of course.
i agree most of the aftermarket ones look gay n no im not keen on going projector either, mostly wanting to run standard h4 globes and figure if im having to pull headlights out and modify globe mounts might as well get some new ones while im at it...Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
looking at these...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-EURO-...item3f158881c4
but not sure yet might just end up getting some factory ones and modding them...
Wow mooshie, a DA5 with b16a, thats farking sick! More details about the window visors please, I'm looking for a set. HIC by any chance?
at the risk of sounding like a real noob what is HIC?
the visors are just ebay aftermarket ones, nothing special.. and seriously overestimating the car! its very much a project thats going to take a while to complete. thanks though, I'll post some better pics soon
Oh, just some company that makes aftermarket ones for the DA. Would you mind posting the ebay link? I can't seem to find them.
Your DA5 just seems rare as hell, pretty much the only other localish 4 door I've seen had a SOHC engine. Was it the same one that was posted up many pages back, owner wanted $8k or something?
Ah, the visors I got second hand so no idea what brand or where from originally, if you pm kikxz he might know.
The car is a repaired vehicle with new VIN and B16 is a conversion, conversion has been done well though with all emission regs etc and the car passed the ID checks here so the numbers are all legit. I got it a lot cheaper than 8k... Let's put it this way, the car was less than all of the other parts combined! They aren't common and just couldn't pass up the opportunity, even with it's problems I could sell the engine etc for more than the car cost me or use for my own parts.
Teggy just got new shoes! Kosei K4R's from the States 12.8lbs per corner + only 17lbs tires. Feels great, just thought I'd share :) Finally retired the trusty 14's!
They look good. Clean DA9 you've got there too!
Any DA boys in Melb. got a spare working condition blower fan resistor? Mines fried and Honda wants $67 for new :(
http://i44.tinypic.com/2qc18v5.jpg
nice car mun.
unique here in oz.
awesome base.
Maaad! Climate control and thin side moldings, so dope.
thats amazing! haven't seen a 4 door going around yet ><
hey guys anyone interested in maybe organising a meetup? melbourne area?
hey guys, need your help.. Im doing a b18c2 swap and going hydraulic with it. ive got the innovative cable to hydro...
my mechanic says my clutch cable is too short.
1) what cable do i use in this case?? he's saying that the clutch cable for american cars are on the left side thats why its short
he is also having trouble with the dizzy wiring for the b18c, I am running and obd0-obd1 harness
2) I dont know what the hell is he saying , i thought everything would be all good?
Any one wrecking a da9 standard or even after market cat back ?
Not sure on what cable to get, as I would think the DA one would be the longest available? Could get a LHD one and modify to fits rom eBay?
Personally I would go with a Hush22 or Suja1 full hydro conversion. The Innovative an Hasport kits are just a stop-gap solution and don't give the benefits of the hydro system. They are cheaper though.
What is the specific issue with the dizzy?
I dont know what is wrong with the dizzy though? he said wiring? .. im pretty sure its straight forward. ive bought a harness so I thought it would be alrightQuote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Make a bracket and mount the adaptor to the side of the gearbox, thats how I have done it in a CRX and DA. Also, if you have climate control, the hush and suja kits dont work, theres no room under the dash.Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
Did you get the ODB0-ODB1 harness for the distributor as well as the ECU? The ODB0 and OBD1 distributor plugs themselves are physically different, but if you search on g2ic there's a thread that tells you how to rewire the plug quite easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
If you've also got the distributor harness, there shouldn't be a problem...
not on topic at all but its been a while since Ive been on since I sold the teg and got an ae86 haha, but cheers for all the help fellow da9ers. I would happily get another one.. first dibs on mooshies if and when he sells it
aw shucks.. which one do you want? gonna need to get rid of at least one at some point! the DA9T wont be for sale for a long time yet so dont cross your fingers. Congrats on the 86, post pics somewhere! (maybe not in this thread)
Doin an F20c conversion on an AE86 for a mate Atm... Good Car..
just noticed in your signature you got a da5, sweet as! Turbo would be first preference but i'd take the da6 anyday. I'll post some pics soon but she is quite stripped at the moment so give me a month or so to show a running car.. F20 would be nuts menacer but i'm keeping it toyota :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Hey guys i need help with my swap.. Did you ever encounter a cel on the ecu. The ecu could not detect the vss since the cluster is a cable and not electronic...are there any da clusters that are electronic???? I need help.. Fml
you need to swap your DA sending unit on to your hydraulic gearbox and then take the signal from the VSS which is on the rear of the cluster
Hey guys - just posting to introduce myself here and my car. Would be really down for making a regular meet up spot for the DA owners in Melbourne!!
Link to some pics...
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...junk-yard-find
I see you found your way here. Welcome to OzHonda!
Welcome to OzHonda! Keen to see progress on the car, make sure you keep us updated!
is it possible to fit the cruise control system from the us version da9 into an Aus version?
short answer is yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 91type-r
ah, well that's a good start. I assume it would require the wiring to be run separately? especially since mine has the xsi harness
hey guys , is a obd1 vtec cluster a plug and play affair when i put it on my non vtec da?
if its a da cluster it should plug and playQuote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
Only difference is the higher redline, should just swap straight in. Standard cluster goes up to 8000 in the red area anyway so don't bother!
Hi guys,
I was wondering if the 88 model integras airbox assembly will fit in a DA9? If not does anyone has an airbox and rear hatch struts for sale?
Where are you located? No clue about the '88 air box, but something tells me it won't fit. If you're in Melbourne, I have a spare air box with resonator and intake arm.
Hey mate, yeah I'm in Geelong how much would you like for the airbox?
After further searching I found a DIY repair for only a few $ by replacing the 3 individual resistors rather than buying a whole new part from ripoff central :honda:Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?58253-A-C-Switch-Fix-(resistors)Quote:
LO - M1 = 2.2 Ohms
M1 - M2 = 1.5 or 1.6 Ohms
M2 - HI = 1.0 Ohms
Will probably be of use for others sooner or later as its a common fault apparently :thumbsup:
So I'm currently in the process of putting my 89 LS integra no the road, and I have run into some issues with rear bushes. I need some rear inner lower trail arm bushes, rear lower control arm bushes, inner and outer, and some sway bar D bushes. So far no one in my area can provide me with these items. Can anyone point me in the right direction where I can get these items quickly!
Not sure what you mean by 'inner lower trailing arm bush' I assume you are just talking about the big trailing arm bush.You will need to be prepared to pay a lot if you want them quickly and for that, Honda would probably be the quickest. Although if you can find a DA/DC set in good condition just swap the whole thing! The sway bar bushes you should be able to get polyurethane from any suspension place, they are fairly generic just need right size. Control arm bushes are the same as DC Integra items and a coulple of traders on here do them in a few different forms. Or, you could just get a whole aftermarket arm.
Another option is to just get a Energy Suspension or Prothane kit from the US.
BTW- would help to know what 'your area' is...
Hey guys,
I have a few question / problems that I need your help to point me in the right direction.
1) Firewall leak, have anyone fix this problem before with OEM parts?
I've been living with the leak for almost 3 years (the worst is during winter), and now decided to fix it for my own good.
Can anyone please provide me with a shop/link which we can get the parts below? (how much did it cost you?) Or I will need to look for it from USA?
The parts listed are:
8 rubber seal 91608-SJ6-003
6 CAP-SCREW ASSEMBLY 91501-SK7-013
7 LOWER RIVETS 91511-SK7-003 (not really needed, but good to change all in one go)
8 CLIP SCREWS 90657-SA6-003
2) My rear window demister failed (similarly, for almost 3 years, maybe longer). Have anyone fixed this before? Do I need to modify the ICU?
Hope you guys can help me out. Thanks a lot
Not sure where to purchase locally but if all fails,
http://www.oemacuraparts.com
should have it all.
I did this job last year on the 6. Pretty sure the parts are relatively inexpensive even from Honda, would probably be cheaper to get from the US but whatever for a few dollars. You only actually need to replace 2 on the driver side and 4 on passenger side, the others don't drain into that wrong spot.
And yes, fix the ICU, G2IC has a write up but can't find it at the moment
Mooshie, I'm in Geelong, Victoria. I'm only dealing with what the clowns at the RWC place write on the list not to mention the non helpful people at Autobarn here. Pedders apperantly have some kits..The aftermarket control arms don't had the sway bar attachment so not sure how it would handle if I went down that path.
Ah fair enough, not sure on anywhere that could assist around the Geelong area sorry...
All aftermarket control arms that I have seen have holes for the sway bar? Might just have to get different endlinks to make it all work though, TBH if you take off the arms yourself, the bushings should only cost about $10-20 each to get swapped over, most auto shops should have a suitable press. Lot cheaper that way.
Your right Mooshie, I'll have to modify the end links to make it all work. Honda quoted me a ridiculous price for the control arm bushes, and so far the best price I can get is around the $120 mark for the 4 I need. So the aftermarket ones are looking pretty good right now. Also has anyone fitted S2000 seats in a DA9?
hey guys, need sum info fast.. 1993 da9, will this be obd1 wiring n ecu or still obd0?
It will be OBD1.
ok thanks. i thought that was the case but also thought it should have hydraulic clutch but doesnt... :/
Nah, no DA came from the factory with a hydraulic clutch. They're all cable.
if its obd1 what should engine code be? b18a2 or still b18a1???
^^ anyone??
Should still be B18A1 although there are fabled B18A2 engines that I have heard of but never seen!
ah cool, thanks mooshie, yea id heard rumours too n was confused as hell..
Hey Guys my DA9 got written off a few weeks back. I have a Haynes Repair Manual (for Integra 90-93 and Legend 91-95) on offer if anyone is interested - PM me. Cheers.
http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/x...7/IMG_0158.jpg
Just a quick question, Anyone on here running an lsd? if so what brand and how much power you putting through it??
oem honda lsd here, not sure about power thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Hey guys I got a DA9 with very spongy brake pedal feeling. I have checked everything and almost got everything that I needed (new rotors, pads, fluids, and braided lines.)
So here's my question, is someone here had tried to put a brake master cylinder + booster from another car?? (eg. from dc2/4, or civics)
It's pretty hard to find the replacement in my area and Honda quoted me for around 400 bux.
out of a dc2??Quote:
Originally Posted by stocky
DC2/4will bolt straight in if you replace the booster and MC and is the 15/16th size same as your current one. All you need to do is re bend your brake lines a bit to match up to the outlets on the MC which are in a slightly different location. If you are upgrading to larger calipers you will want to upgrade to a 1" DC2R booster/MC and process is same as above.Quote:
Originally Posted by engkong
Tbh, you will only be getting another second hand setup anyway so what's the point? (unless you are upgrading) plus replacing the booster is a pain.. I think you would be better off just rebuilding your current MC if that is even causing the issue. Unfortunately I cant get info at the moment but if you google search for how to test an Integra booster and master cylinder there are a lot of instructions to figure out whe the fault lies
Hey guys, was going to post a thread in the Suspension section but figured I'd try here first.
I initially had my mind set on getting Skunk2 springs (2" drop all round) off of eBay ($300 delivered) and running them on stock shocks.
I've read in numerous threads that lowered springs on stock shocks will kill the shocks fairly quickly?
What about these? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKUNK2-Sp...ht_2673wt_1163
They're a bit above what I wanted to spend, but do it once, do it right I guess haha.
depends how old the shocks are and if there oem if your wanting a good setup u can get some sleeves on some good shocks or just get a set of coiloversQuote:
Originally Posted by 93Integra
OEM shocks, I'm assuming they haven't been replaced.
Searched around a bit more, now thinking Ground Control kit with Tokico Illumina's/Koni Yellows.
Quite expensive but from what I've read, it's the best setup for street cars.
Anyone had any experience with these?
I'm running koni's. have been very hapy so far.. good balance between dealing with crap roads and firm controlled ride..
I went with the ground control/Koni yellow combo back in the day and I was pretty impressed. You can also customize your spring rate when you order, however I went off the shelf (can't remember the specs). Wasnt rough but wasnt smooth either... Obviously depends on height, wheel size etc.
Some pics below.... Strongly suggest you don't go with standard shocks you will regret it.
Attachment 22597
Attachment 22598
Attachment 22599
Any problems with scraping at that height FR33K? That's essentially the height I'm after.
Spring rate I'm undecided, I had a 31 with Tien coilovers, 10kg F and 8kg R, way too solid for a daily.
I think stock rates are 8 and 6? From ebay for everything it will be just under a grand so I want to make sure its the right choice lol.
The front probably scrubbed a little when turning only because I didn't remove the plastic lining under the guard.
Oh yeh I did also have a full camber kit
had my teg on the dyno last week guys 6psi made 200whp
its been a while since i was active on here,
but im thinking of getting rid of my car
EOI: FS DA9 89 INTEGRA
a few of you may know the story behind it and the reason for the extremely long delay..
honestly im over it, took to long to get it completed, and time to buy a house.
car turns on, only drove it home from the tuner and is very quick.
heres what it has....
b20/b16 vtec motor (new gaskets top to bottom, timing belt, seals, waterpump, everything changed) 30000kms put on it my eg civic..
power will not be revealed
it did run mid 13's 3/3 tho in my eg civic with full street trim n street tyres..
custom cable gearbox with ek9 and dc2r internals with 4.7 final drive
Ry-wire mil spec harness convert from obd0 - obd1
HONDATA s200 tuned
exedy sports organic clutch i think it is..
lightened flywheel
dc2r 5 stud brake upgrade (not installed yet)
reconditioned steering rack, converted to NON P/S
dc2r rear LCA's x2 and suspension (not installed yet)
blox rear camber arms running -5.5 deg
buddyclub racing spec exhaust system from dc2r, customised to fit da9.. (tip comes out on the right side)
ITR japspec steering wheel (non airbag)
ITR shift boot
ITR gear knob
DA9 cluster with DA6 rev meter installed for longer rev range
sr3 recaros (not installed)
93 front bar
xxr wheels 15x8 0 offset
car is still unpainted, as it sat at a workshop for almost more than 2 years
to complete it i was looking at tein mono flex coil overs,
new paint
and 16' wheels
and installing the 5 stud conversion, recaro seats
nice. b18a1?Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man
What camber kit did you have?
I know that lowering it a certain amount will cause the car to have negative camber, did you just have the kit to correct it? (Noob2Camber)
Im running Skunk2 camber kits front and rear. my teg is probably a few mm higher than Fr33k's. there still plenty of adjustment on the rear but the fronts are almost maxed
Wow long time no hear A-Man! 200 is pretty good for such low PSI, have you done anything since the original setup?Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man