By adjustment do you mean you've removed as much negative camber as possible?
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By adjustment do you mean you've removed as much negative camber as possible?
as much as i wanted to. from memory rear camber is approx -0.4 and front camber is -0.8.. can probably get fronts to 0 and rears to +3 with remaining adjustment...
Makes sense, might look into camber kits after I get my ground controls.
Being that low, did you have to modify the guards? Or just remove the plastic liner on the inside?
I haven't had to do either.
Oh n btw for anyone who's interested. finally started my build thread:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...87#post3505687
Hey guys, im after a quick answer, has any used or seen a DC2 Gen 1 mugen exhaust mounted on a DA?
http://www.torontointegras.ca/attach...ine=1310667821
Im after something similar to this
http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...2071700013.jpg
What do you guys think? Im just worried that it will have to hang too low in order to clear the right side of the muffler.
All input appreciated.
im running the RS-R and we welded custom mounts to fit up nice and tight no worries just wont be able to take it off anytime quickly if i have too :-S
hope you don't mind me asking what model rs-r you are using? and what car was it for?Quote:
Originally Posted by Latino CRX
Damm, havnt been on here in a while, in the Suby world :P
whats new in the teg world?
I've got a built b18a1 head if anyone still wants haha
hmm much want, but probs cant afford atm.. just out of curiosity how much?
the same twin tip as the picture .. in mornin i will take some pics of the pipe work and brackets and weldings ..Quote:
Originally Posted by FoodTray
its on a DA9
That would be great, appreciate it :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Latino CRX
price i paid .... TOO MUCH :( ..
My quote was $47X landed, but couldn't get a reply before the auction ended D:
so i missed out, having troubles finding another twin tip atm.
There is a few single tip up though.
yeh mines was $500 delivered .. was worth it tho does produce a good sound and i got mine
while ago ..
sorry didnt get around to takin pics i didnt wana waste this good day oportunity and
went wingsuit flyin at northern brisbane :) .. stuff it i will go take some now
Does anyone have a write up with pics
to Installing a Half size civic radiator to a DA ??
has anyone ever put a JDM DC2R Front bar on a DA ??
I found a little mod for cable clutchs like the da9 has on hondatech and decided to try it
on the end of the cable,where it pulls the release arm,theres a rubber stopper which kinda cushions the mechanism when you step on the clutch
it makes it a bit spongy for grannies and girls,the usual honda owners..so what you do is put a hoseclamp around the rubber thingy and tighten it snug making the clutch feel very solidly and precise
http://www.parts4cars.com.au/images/BMH5.JPG
cable clutchs are already more direct feeling but this makes it even sweeter :thumbsup:
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg832...pg&res=landing
That looks like a great idea. Gonna try it this week.
anyone used a ys1 with a b18vtec? waste of time or pretty good?
short ratio ys1?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
i think its worth it
nah, just the standard da9 box.
I had long ratio ys1 with b16 and it was a dog. I also had short ratio S1 (I think) and it was 10x more fun to drive
Hey guys,
I have recently put a b18c from a 98 spec type-R into my Teg and am having issues on start up. I have to give it some throttle to get it to fire properly and Idle.
Is this due to not having the FITV fitted? I'm running the OBD-0 ecu, engine harness and distributor. the OBD-1 (or 2) parts are the IACV, Map sensor and the TPS.
I have made an aluminium block for the FITV to bolt to with the air lines able to be connected to the intake manifold. My theory is that my ecu can't run the IACV function that controls start up and cold start.
Or have I missed something?
Went to look for oil today and in Sprints they had a book recommending you on which oil to use.
What does everyone use in their B18A1? I was reading some brands and they suggested 15W/40 for nearly all brands.
I've been reading most people use 5W/30? Or is that for VTEC engines only?
how many k's has your's done is the first question. second is how do you drive it. (track days or shopping cart etc.)
mines at almost 300000km running penrite HPR15 since I bought it. motor is still in great condition.
It just hit 220k km's, it's my daily, have never been to a track day and don't plan to in the near future.
Mostly daily driving with some hard accel here and there, nothing too stupid.
in that case stick with a 15w oil. going thinner like a 5w will result in low oil pressure and will probably burn oil. and going thicker, like a 20w will only accelerate engine wear.
however it also depends on where you are (cold climate/warmer climate)
sticking with a decent brand is well worth your while, no need to go royal purple etc. for daily driving but penrite, nulon or even mobil will keep your motor clean and healthy.
I'll just go with Castrol GTX or Magnatec or something, thanks heaps mate.
wouldnt use that to burn a dog personally. but no worries.
Oh really? It was on special and I figured Castrol was a decent brand.
My next choice was Nulon so that's fine.
What is wrong with Castrol? Or is it just a cheaper brand?
If they spent as much money on developing their product as they do advertising it might be alright.
But they don't so it's pretty much a poor product advertised as a great one.. Would definitely go the nulon any day of the week
would Ek Hatch side skirts fit onto a DA or would i need to source Sedan Side skirts??
My B18a is missing badly from takeoff (900rpm to about 2000rpm but when it's over 2000 it pulls fine! Help!!
Haven't changed ur ignition timing? (eg. recently been working on disributor)
No mate, nothing has been altered in that area
my old crx done that man i found one of the spark plug seals from the cam cover to be leakin oil
into the spark plug causing it to stutter at arching point
Problem sorted. Turned out there was remaining parts of the old leads still in the chamber (from old owner) and they had just pushed new leads on top. I cleaned out the chambers, put new plugs and leads in and she runs like a dream!
I was olso wondering if anyone has put ED springs into a DA9 before?
anyone got a 92 facelift front bar i can buy =D in Sydney yo
i have a maroon one on my parts car... not sure if i want to sell it yet tho... :/
has anyone put ED civic series 1 springs into a DA9 before? I know the RCA's and LCA's are interchangable, but wondering if the springs will fit also?
They will fit but will alter the ride height and will be too soft assuming you are talking stockies.
They are king lowering springs, not stockies.
I have tried them all, I had a B16a1 box with B18Vtec for road and was ok, but as soon as I used for the high hp race engine it didn't last. Same with the B18A1 boxQuote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
I currently have 170kw full race B20Vtec using the 1996 TypeR box with carbon lined synchros and 4:78:1 and works a treat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hwnK...&feature=g-upl
Gary, which part of the B16A box ended up failing? I'm hoping that by upgrading the diff, one of those will be able to withstand a high powered B20Vtec, but if it wasn't the diff that went out I guess I'll have to rethink my plans.
The synchros were the weak link... So I did the conversion to Hydro .... but I miss the B16A ratios....Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayle
.I have two types of diffs available if your interested.... one is the original TypeR diff the other is a clutch plate diff more suited for track P.M. if your interested and I can ship to you no cost freight.
Ah, I see. I guess if the box explodes I'll just start upgrading stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbpracing
Thanks for the offer but I don't think either of those will physically fit into a first-gen S1 B16A box, looks like I'll be going for the mfactory unit later on when the engine is actually ready!
The Clutch plate diff came out of my B16A cable clutch so I thought that is the same as what you have.. !!!! B16 B18 ARE interchangeable from what i experienced !!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayle
Ah, okay. However, that's more hardcore a clutch that I'm willing to use, since the car will still be driven on the street.
for sure... not fun driving that diff in street conditions... So what Diff are you using ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayle
Currently the box just has the stock S1 open diff, but it's not in my car yet. I'll be installing it onto my stock B18A for now while I build my B20VTEC, but when the new engine goes in I'm looking to put an MFactory Helical LSD in, and maybe upgrade the synchros at the same time if funds allow.
would a 95-96 Honda Accord front lip fit a 90 - 91 DA front bar ?
im interested in type r diff.. tis LSD yeah??Quote:
Originally Posted by gbpracing
Yes it's Helical LSD genuine TypeRQuote:
Originally Posted by menacer
No worries, if you PM me I can give you more details and send some pics of the Diff..... It is from the first TypeR that was sold in Australia.. I never actually used it because I had a Quaiff Diff ...
The TypeR diff I have will suit you and is the same Helical LSD for a lot less $$ your call :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayle
Gary
A bit of clarification here.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbpracing
Our MFactory diff while is a Helical LSD design, is forged (OEM is cast) - making it up to 30% stronger. While it has the same bias ratio as OEM, it has a more aggressive tooth angle (i.e more power is transferred to the ground). Can handle higher torque. Is lightweight (due to being Forged + our weight reducing features).
Read here.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post3110077
Our LSDs are cost effective because we don't have large advertising cost to maintain but our quality speaks for itself.
Why risk an LSD with unknown history?
Sales must be slow, of course you would say that !! lol Your a salesman :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by e240
Your making assumption that the diff has no history shame on you !!!! But the again, your a SALESMAN !!!
Nothing to do with sales.
Just making sure the correct information is available for users to make an informed decision. Especially when someone is trying to sell their own LSD by making incorrect comparisons.
what headers can anyone recommend for the DA9?
not to low to the ground
Anyone had any luck running 15x7.5 +30 with a 195/50 tyre?
I've searched fitment threads and I believe everything should fit fine, just asking for anyone with personal experience.
Car is stock height (for now), unmodified guards, etc etc.
www.rimtuck.comQuote:
Originally Posted by 93Integra
should be ok, im running 15x8 +0 offset, rolled guards and lowered springs and rear camber arms at 5.5 deg camber and its almost flush.
so 30mm less and half inch skinnier wheels should be ok,
only problem i found is 15' sits to low to the ground, so im looking into getting 16'
randomly when I'm driving along the orange light comes up on my dash and stays on till i turn the car off.
everything appears to operate as normal. anyone have any idea why this could be happening?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
EDIT: now im on a laptop i could search
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...gnostics-Codes
this should help you out
love it
cheers espionage (& ecuman), that's a great thread, but yeah, I'm not throwing any codes :( it's just that the yellow light (the one that stays on when you've got a dead MFR) on the dash comes on while I'm driving along. it's happened randomly since I changed the radiator so I'm wondering if there's some random earthing or wiring gremlin or if it is indicates something, like low power steering fluid or something. I've never heard of it before and I've read most things about the da9 at one stage or another over the years. just kinda hoping that someone else has been through it.
on a more interesting and completely unrelated note: I just rebuilt my b18a1 (fried rings, head gasket blew, bent a valve, one of the rocker arms was sitting beside where it should have been!) apart from the aforementioned hicup, the car is running great. I never new the b18a1 used the same big end bearings a b16 crank. still running it in for the minute, so haven't really hung it out at high rpm's for any extended period of time, but I must say having all the ponies back in the stable has put a smile on my face. it reminds me of when I bought my first DA with 90k on the clock. next up I'll have to put some dollars into neatening up the body work.. after a drive through the mountains yesterday, I can confirm that it goes, stops and corners as well as I'd hoped.
Yea maybe an earth?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
I don't want to admit to this. my problem was the backup 10/amp fuse in the engine bay had blown. never noticed my hazard lights weren't working. what'd be the first thing you'd look at with code 43. o2 sensor?
hey guys i have just bought a DA teg with a b16a its a xsi. The only problem is its a shitamatic i thought id ask this question on here can anyone point me in the direction of a manual conversion run down for it any help wold be great.
cheers
I picked up a DA9 the other day that came with a turbo setup, the kit includes T28 BB turbo, intercooler and piping, dump and front pipe, oil feed and return lines and the last two parts that my question is about Injectors and an ECU. The Injectors are a blue color and i think off the top of my head are a topfeed, is there a certain type of injector that people mainly use on B18A1 turbo that sound like these? or is there away i can find out what they are? Also the ECU has writing on it (in texta :/) that says "this ECU has PMC-4 (i think thats the code) has been chiped 2005" long shot but does anyone know this ECU? or is there a way i can find out what has been done to it?
Thanks :D
Sounds like a set of blue top injectors from a mitsubishi, theyre 450cc. I used the same on on my b16a turboQuote:
Originally Posted by PoDgE
Thanks stocky any idea what mitsubishi they came out of? so i can match them up and see?
You'll need-Quote:
Originally Posted by jmello
Clutch and flywheel
Manual ecu or chip it
Cluster
Shift boot etc
Linkages
Transmission mount
Pedals
Gearbox will be hard to find in a cable clutch setup with ratios to suit the b16. If you go with a later hydro housing then you will also need master and slave cylinders plus lines and however you decide to adapt it. Hush22 do a good conversion or hasport etc.
that is awsome cheers mate !!
I looked into an auto to manual conversion when I found a cheap auto and had a wrecked manual DA in the driveway. It was a fair bit more work than I'd imagined. The advice from people who'd done it was that they'd not do it again.
hahaha yerr i will be having a go at it tho :) and then i can say the same thing
Not that much harder than a clutch change really... Just put a different gearbox back in!
Anyone changed there mounts in a DA before? mine are destroyed and instead of going stock i was going to upgrade to Innovative or HA sport but no distributor in AUS lists any for DA9. They have them listed in the USA but not for 89 model. Does anyone know if there is a kit available and where to get it form?
I went with Hasport when all my mounts cracked, I purchased mine through Jdmyard which are listed on international distributors list of the Hasport website. I don't think there would be any difference in mounts between 89 DA9 and the 90-93 DA9's if its running a b18a? as long as you get the right transmission mount(hydro or cable), might be best to speak to a distributor to confirm before purchasing.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoDgE
Thanks mate yeah i am running a Ba8a1 with cable trans. Ill send them a msg now! How did you find the hasport mounts? Is the much of an increase in vibrations when these are put in?
I really like the Hasport(62a), shifting felt much smoother as there were hardly any engine movement. There was a significant increase in vibrations while its stationary, once the car is moving its not that bad. Over time you'll probably get use to it and will seem like there are less vibrations.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoDgE