V-manage is only an i-vtec controller. It can support VTC, which is something that other piggybacks can't do. It's meant to be used together with the E-manage.
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Yes I am running the china knockoff headers with a double-layered flex pipe.
Yes I run an inefficient piggyback ECU.
But you have missed the point aaronng. The point is, Hondata will deliver competitive pricing and performance against the biggest brand names.
I indicated that Hondata delivers good value in terms competitive pricing and performance even against the biggest names in the industry.
You indicated in this reply that it was not competitive...
"If you dig up the old thread, the I/H/E + hondata package was about 4k+. That was a long time ago. Not sure about the price now.
Hmm, Toda headers ($1400ish), K&N CAI ($400ish), BC catback ($1000), highflow cat ($400), ECU+tuning ($1000ish). No where near $3k man...."
and provided a list of premium aftermarket modifications that you claim came only to less than $3000 (with a questionable ECU solution+tuning coming at $1000). in actual fact, that list adds up to $4200.
In my post, I challenged you to find an aftermarket ECU solution for $1000. I also listed my mods to show that overall I have the biggest brand names on my car (bar the headers), and indicated the power output and cost is not as competitive as the HONDATA setup. Even if I did have a TODA header, that aftermarket setup would cost even more than a fully integrated Hondata system.
You cannot call this setup a competitive setup in price power output vs the Hondata setup, aaronng:
Motech ECU+tuning 4000ish+600ish tune
Buddyclub CBE 1000ish
K&N CAI 400ish
?higherflow? cat 400ish
Toda headers 1400ish
total cost: 7,800
Compared to other setups, the hondata kit appeals to me because all the components are designed to compliment each other. And from the sounds of it, the setup produces a surprisingly nice amount of output. With that in mind, the hondata kit represents great value for money, even if it does cost a little more than a DIY kit.
Sure, it hasn't been released yet, and yes it was supposed to be available "soon", but considering what is out there now for the Euro, i think its work the wait. :)
T_T im so confused. hengis are you able to tell me if the hondata is cheaper then putting the whole I/H/E system ?
btw aaronng, are having the BC catback and highflow cat worthwhile? what exactly do they do, sorry for the noob question and for it being abit off topic. my apology.
If you are referring to whether a Hondata (aka Jtune) I/H/E system would cost more than a popular i/h/e combination (i.e buddyclub, greddy etc) than that would depend on the price/quality of the aftermarket system.
You will be able to compare them side by side once the products are released.
cheers
Most Euro owners here who have done intake/header/ exhaust have done so because they did not want to wait or have waited a long time already for Hondata solution.
So is using brand name components for I/H/E cheaper than Hondata, only they can tell u this once it has been released to the public.
Having a high flow cat and any cat back exhaust system including BC will give a slight improvement but nothing neck breaking.
Regardless of what bolt on parts you have they will never really produce a significant result unless there is some form of ECU manipulation either piggy back, reflash or replacement.
The other part of the ECU saga is the capability/talent/experience of the person tunning your car to produce a result done properly a dyno.
A lot of tunning shops can install parts but there is not a lot of people who understand and have the experience of tuning K24's.
There are a couple of guys on this form who are working on different Euro ECU projects other than Hondata so lets hope we hear from a few others too.
But Hondata just keep waiting......:(
I like how all the hondata prototype spies have come out of the woodwork... :D
I think $5k for all bolt ons etc to go a little faster in a straight line is not good value. I can't see the Euro pulling a sub 14 or something really special anytime soon without turbo / supercharger. My guess is it will pull a mid 14 or thereabouts and that is with everything i/h/e flash.
But I guess it depends on what people see as priorities - I see working on suspension, sway and bracing as better bang for buck.
Base reflash is the way to go I think for most people. That is where the value is. At least you can sell the car in that tune without stuffing around with future reflashes.
I agree.I was originally going to get the lot(I/H.E+reflash)but now i'm only going to get the reflash.1k for approx.18kw ATW is really good value but to get another 25 kw ATW(approx.)you've got to spend another 3.5k??:eek:This is working on the assumption that a stock man.Euro makes 110 kw ATW and a JTUNE Euro with I/H/E+reflash makes 155kw ATW!!
Somehow I dont think its possible to go from 110KW ATW to 155KW ATW on the Euro. Its not designed to be revved crazy and without doing higher RPMS it just wouldn't pull those sorts of power increases. Depends on the base dyno figures really..
You know what Australia needs? A 6 cylinder RWD vehicle with perfect chassis balance, really great fuel consumption, EPS/Traction Control, powers from naught to hundred in 6.5-7.0.
The closest I could think of is a Holden V6 but its got a crap chassis unfortunately.
EDIT: wouldnt say its crap but its not as great as its V8 brothers like the SS and R8s plus it aint sporty comfort enough.
If we could buy this car, who's going to bother upgrading the Euro... lol.
just hurry up now this has been forever
Read my post again. I was challenging r-r-redEuro's post:
I was saying it was not as cheap as 3k and that it was over 4k. Why are you being so defensive all of a sudden? ;)
LOL, as I said, I was letting r-r-redEuro know the estimate price of good quality mods and that they were not as cheap as 3k. Why did you think that I listed the 4k motec as an example? To show that good mods are not cheap. I'm not saying that Hondata is expensive. I'm saying that it is in line with the pricing of the competition. :)