Does anyone know if the DC5 A-Pillar Plastic would fit a DA?
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Does anyone know if the DC5 A-Pillar Plastic would fit a DA?
hey guys and girl recently bought and 89 da9 with rego for 700 so far have done a decent service on it oil plugs etc went to get a fuel filter (supercheap wants $88 for one...) one thing i have notice with mine is after coming off throttle and slowing down my evs drop to the point the car feels like it is going to stall also only one of my dizzy bolt holes lines up does this mean its got the wrong dizzy or a swapped head or?
check for vacuum leak and clean ur tb and map sensor might help as for dizzy it sounds like somethings been swapped. so probs would be a good idea to check you timing aswell.
^^ do all this and it should cover it! Likely the dizzy is swapped as any OBD0 dist will work just the housings(position of the legs) are different. As menacer alluded to- timing is probably out as one bolt is not enough to hold it reliably in position or if they are doing it dodgy style probably didn't even re set the timing
I have a b18c-R in my da and am having fuel delivery issues. it has a Jun head and stage 3 cams and gtr injectors. my tuner can not put anymore fuel in without the car throwing a check engine light. it has greedy e-manage blue. we are thinking that the stock fuel pump and pressure regulator are not up to the job.
I would like some thoughts or setup info from you guys that have the b18c in your da9.
I guess you could start with the regulator, it'd be cheaper than a new pump and if it turns out that it wasn't the problem, putting new things on your car never hurt anyone :P
I run all Hasport i my race Integra and they are great, not as much through vibration as I thought but for sure limit's the total engine movement quite a lot compared to the std mountsQuote:
Originally Posted by PoDgE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coURgCa5Jjs
Hey Guys ,
Anyone know what type of roof racks id b looking at for the Da9?
Cant find any
Anyone got roof racks on their DA9? or 3door coupe?
Ive got em on the 4 door accord and they are sweet , don't understand fully how it works on a coupe, saw one with both front and rear racks in the front door section which i don't like as it appears it doesn't displace the load evenly
anyone ?????????????
Roof Racks?????????????
just picked up a K20z and box has anyone on here done that swap in their DA ??
if so can u give me a write up of what you went through and done and needed ??
THULE have a listing for DA9 roof racks on their website. Not cheap though.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
Is there anything you specifically wanted to know? It's much more complicated than an eg/dc swapQuote:
Originally Posted by Latino CRX
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
I use to have Rolla Roof racks and they were fine, easy to install and remove. I ended up throwing them out after many years of not using them but they were still ok
yeah i saw them and you said it.... pricey asQuote:
Originally Posted by d-train
but they look .... ok i spose
ahhhhh noooooo you through them away lolzQuote:
Originally Posted by gbpracing
im getting right into wood work, its unreal how much free wood people give away, need the roof racks for pallets and long peices rather than buy a ute or install a tow bar i thought the roof racks would be the best thing for me
ill check them rolla roof racks out cheers mate
just wondering how many k's peeps are up to on there da's with org engine im on 310 she has been well kept but amazing they still love to rev.
My DA6 is only up to 180, and the wreck packed it in at about 235000. The other 2 are swaps so no idea what they are really up to...
They seem to blow head gaskets a bit but aside from that they run forever!
i got 3 b18a1's,
2 in da's- 260k and 160k
1 out 255k
305k on the one im using before car got wrecked.. once fixed its getting turbo bolted on! interested to see how it takes a few extra psi after all those miles.
my spare motor (which i plan to rebuild for when the boost gets too much for the current one) is at 260ish from memory...
some pretty high k's there , yeh it will be they seem like they are tough engines that's for dam sure i have thought about getting rid of it but i still love to drive it and as i said they Go and its 20yrs old lol
how long have you had the 6 ?? for mooshie very cool i was looking for one years ago but never found one.
Had the DA6 for about 3 years I think. If you do a search I posted up a pretty detailed thread on it once. The DA5 4 door I have had for about a year
Just found out I may be adding a 5th integra to my collection in the comming weeks :D
EOI: B20 vtec DA9 INTEGRA
thinking of getting rid of my da9 integra,
its a waste just sitting in the driveway,
dont want to register it as i have another 2 cars that i have to drive.
feel free to throw some offers and ill think about it.
car is a very very torque, and fast!!
P plate friendly car
B20/b16 (new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, etc)
Forged pistons
Mild head work (ITR/CTR internals)
ITR intake manifold
ITR throttle body
Ry-wire obd0-obd1 harness
Brand new distributor (high voltage)
Hondata s200
A/C
K&N pannel filter
P/S rack overhauled and converted to non P/S
Custom cable gearbox rebuilt with ITR/CTR GEARS, LSD and 4.7 final drive
brembo drilled and slotted rotors installed now
ITR 5 stud brake upgrade (not installed yet)
ITR rear LCA's x2 and suspension (not installed yet)
blox rear camber arms running -5.5 deg
front and rear UR Strut braces
buddyclub racing spec exhaust system from dc2r, customised to fit da9.. (tip comes out on the right side)
ITR japspec steering wheel (non airbag)
ITR shift boot
ITR gear knob
ITR floor mats
DA9 cluster with DA6 vtec taco
all black interior
DA6 rear seats
sr3 recaros (not installed)
93 front bar
clear front blinkers
clear side blinkers
xxr wheels 15x8 0 offset
nangkank 195/45/15 95% tread
mongoose alarm system (not installed)
Plenty more extras that i can't think of right now
lost interest in completing the car as it sat in a workshop for over 2 years,
future plans were
tein mono flex coil overs,
new paint,
toda headers,
16' wheels,
installing the 5 stud conversion,
and recaro seats
full bushing kit
asking for $10000 neg. or swap
Know anyone interested? Lol
if parting out .... yes =)
I don't have time to part out
Lol, if I did I'd be completing it slowly
Well looks like Im slowly coming back to the honda scene, Just bought a B20 to put my head on haha
Good to hear bud. To go back in the DA6 I assume...
da6 is long gone, haha still trying to decide what chassis
Hey guys, Im not sure when it stopped but i have noticed my 3rd brake light on the glass hatch at the top is not working i have changed the globe so any other ideras.
thanks.
Ben.
Check the top of your brake pedal arm, there should be a little round cylinder shaped switch screwed into it.
Hi guys, I have a da9 that I want to get parts for e.g exhaust suspension engine rebuilt kits on so on, my question is where in Melbourne has what I'm looking for? Found everything online but all from USA.
Hey guys I have a group of guys with das in Sydney just wondering who else in Sydney has a da and will be willing to join us, theres 7 of us so far, so just message us and I'll give u details
To do what? I come to Sydney every now and then... Not in the DAs though
Just trying to bring das back into the scene a lot of people don't even know what a da is
True. Good luck hopefully can get a few together
im still out, mate ended up buying the b20 off me haha, and took a lot of my aftermarket parts. Still got an Skunk2 Intake manifold and built b18a head if anyone is interested :P
Just double checking -
Is it the fuel pump I need to replace if the engine light won't go out before I try to start the car ?
It's been doing this off and on for a few weeks , But lately it also will start then die after maybe 5 sec
if u wait a little and try again it works just cbf waiting any more
Thoughts?
Don't know about the check light's relationship to a faulty fuel pump, otherwise it sounds like that old bug-a-boo, the main relay (which also controls the pump) soldering getting dry joints.
The check engine light turns on when u turn ignition to accessorize then off when the pump has primed the linesQuote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Ahh ok so I need to re solder the main relay ?
Sounds about right to be some elec bug lol
I can hear the pump priming most times , but when I don't hear it prime it either won't start or start then die
Certainly sounds like the classic symptoms.
Cheers man =)Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Okay guys how is everyone here, i am not good writing in English as it is my second language, i will really appreciate the help of everyone here.
my car specs.
Honda
Integra 2 door coupe.
B18A1 1.8L DOCH engine EFI
is 1990 model
the problem is that i cant turn on the car, the engine light wont go away, i have tried everything sometimes the engine light turns off and i can start up or fire up the car and no problem.
what i have noticed is that when the check engine light stays on i cant hear the fuel pump at all but if i try randomly the fuel pump will kick in and the engine light will go off and then i am able to fire up the car.
The car cranks and everything seems to be working fine except this.
i went down to the ecu to check if there is any codes with that red flashing light.
results were weird, when the fuel pump kicks in the engine light is on for 2 seconds as the fuel pumps cuts off the engine light goes off at the same time the ecu flashes or blinks only once "i have read that means the ecu is working and it is not a error code as it doesn't repeat itself". After this i can turn on the car and drive normally.
now gets even more weird because most of the time when i put the ignition on ii2 the engine light doesn't go away and cant hear the fuel pump kick-in and even weird is that i cant see any flashes indicating that the ecu has power or that is working.
so this is my problem atm and need to find a solution asap. 2 mechanics have had a look at it and no one wants to touch anything related to electrical stuff on a Honda.
i live in SA Adelaide.
thanks to everyone who replies to me.
Nothing wrong with your English mate. Same problem/solution as DA9-47's. Main relay.
thanks a lot buddy i really appreciate this man!! you are the second one on telling me this sure ill get this to work again!Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
do you know if i can find this on any store like autobarn repco or supercheap auto?
It's a DIY job mate, my car was acting the same , then I removed all the old solder then re soldered the main relay and since then it has been awesome , you only need like 3-4 tools and you can do it yourself !!
Or could take the part out and take it to an auto electrician to do for u but I would try do it yourself =)
Also look up "integra main relay problem" on YouTube to find a walk through guide on how to find the main relay (behind coin slot) , remove it , de solder it , re solder it , then reinstall it ,
Since I fixed mine it hasn't not started once
Ps does anyone know an around about price for 2 outer cv's?
I think it's time
60 bucks for both of them on ebay cant remember the brand i have done 60k with them and still veryu good ill try post up the link here but yeah 33$ each cv jooint i not bad at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
Thanks man , yeah post a link so I can have a squiz at it =)
Hello,
I have a few questions I hope some people can help me out with. I am dropping a b18b from a 96gsi into my 93 da9(obd1).
The engine I'm moving to is 1/4 the age of my b18a1.
after reading up a bit, a lot seems logical. I just keep the da9 engine mounts & gearbox, but I'm getting conflicting info on what to do with alternator, distributor and injectors and ecu side of thing.
I wouldn't mind switching the chassis to be entirely obd2 and keeping the new engine and all it's bits and pieces + ecu togethor, as I have everything from the gsi to use.
If I do just use obd1 ecu currently in the car, can I use the b18b's alternator, dizzy and injectors or do I move all those across from the old motor?
Finally, if I do keep the odb1 ecu, the previous owner of my car has chipped the ecu, with I'm pretty sure one of those ebay chips everyone says to avoid. Does anyone have any advice on what to do about that, if anything. I don't seem to get any sort of economy. Should I buy another ecu? Can I just take the chip out, should I buy a new chip from somewhere. this is all budget as, but if getting it tuned with something, somehow, somewhere will save me money in fuel down the track, I'd be tempted.
tl'dr, I've done to much reading and now I don't know which way to jump
ps if anyone in brisbane is chasing a minty gsi box on the cheeps pm me.
Integra da9 owners australia, on fb would probably be a faster way to get answers.
This thread has been dead for a long time lol,
As for your questions,
All b series parts are interchangeable, so you can use any b series box, mounts.
As for the alternator, ps pump and aircon the plugs may be different, I believe you can just change the plugs over from the pumps and alternator from the da9, not to sure about the injectors tho.
I've done this before. I would just use the existing intake, manifolds, accessories and mounts.
The Gsi gearbox I would swap the internals over to your existing gearbox as the LS ones would be pretty rough being 20+ years.
As for converting to OBD2, I wouldn't. You'll need to chuck in more sensors for minimal gain.
you got a link? fb is killing forumsQuote:
Originally Posted by espionage85
Sorry buddy, I wouldn't know how to copy a link on my iPhone,
If you search it, it should come up
yeah no luck
https://www.facebook.com/groups/130046157161784/
try that jon
link works ^^^ jeff
Easiest option is to stay with obd1 and get a chipped ecu that runs a ROM either chrome or Neptune (I reccomend Neptune) If you cant wait for one to comeup online, then visit xenocron.com, his items are pretty reliable. Alternator can be reused, and the engine distributor will be have to obd1. Obd1 and obd2 injectors have different clips. So go with the injectors that fit your harness.
Hey guys is there a clutch cable which is a bit longer then ours as my cable fails to reach hydro to cable actuatorreach as it was made for lhd das
Civic
Hi Guys.
I have been searching for a while now and have had no luck with my current issue.
I have installed a new Walboro 255lph fuel pump with no problems today until I turn the car on, when I turn on the ignition the fuel pump primes up but does not shut off.
Has my MFR failed or is there something I have missed with the install?
The car fires up fine so I'm a bit puzzled.
Any help will be appreciated. Searching through the various install threads online has not mentioned this problem anywhere.
Cheers
The pumps on EFI's keep the fuel circulating all the time, i.e. what's not used through the injectors gets returned to the tank, unlike a carbie'd car, where they stop once the float needle closes. This one, being high volume is probably a bit more noticeable noise-wise.
He is right about the facebook pages and forums. I rarely come on here anymore, mainly because its too much effort to siphon through all the BS and just get the info.
What 91-type R is saying is the Fuel pump is staying on with just the ignition on which isn't correct. The ignition on should allow the fuel pump to switch on for 5 seconds and the ecu light will switch off then when cranking the fuel pump will switch back on.
It sounds like maybe a bad contact on the main relay or possibly ecu related?
What ecu are you running?
WAT BSQuote:
Originally Posted by A-man
this forum is legit, full of good information