u dont really have to, but if its all fked up then ur better off changing it.
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u dont really have to, but if its all fked up then ur better off changing it.
thanks,
does any one know if its the same size washer as oil sump?
The oil sump bolt is metal with a metal crush washer.
The radiator drain plug is plastic and doesn't use a metal washer IIRC.
isn't there a drain bolt for coolant on the block next to the engine number stamp?
Ohh you're talking about that bolt. I'm not too sure to be honest.
not the same size, ****loads bigger.
lol,.
I did this DIY today, great advice, but its made my engine heat up even quicker than before. I loosened the bleed bolt on the top radiator hose but nothing came out, took the bolt completely off. Any thoughts?
tighten the bleeder up, close radiator cap rev the car so it builds up pressure then there shud be coolant/bubbles coming out once u loosen it
THanks, I'll give that a shot. Going to flush it out and try again. Replacing the thermostat while I'm at it.
Can you just run the car with the radiator cap off till there is no air bubbles coming out?Quote:
9. Loosen the bleed bolt (12mm) at the top of the uppermost radiator hose until there are no airbubbles coming out and just a steady stream of coolant. When you tighten it back up again, make sure you don't over tighten it (9.8Nm is fine). The pic below is for a DOHC-non VTEC engine and is located behind/underneath the dizzy. For SOHC engines it is located on top of the radiator hose at the front of the engine above where the engine number is stamped.
yes you can just leave the car running till the fans turn onQuote:
Originally Posted by InVtecWeTrust
wow!! this is a great info!! thanks alot..however, you might wanna put some words in bold especially in tightening the bleeder bolt. As I did not read cafefully (my fault), hence I broke the housing! :P but manage to get a 2nd hand housing for a cheap price. But manage to learn frm mistakes.
However, thanks for your info again!