CRXer, you are welcome 'round my place anytime!
:cool:
Peter
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CRXer, you are welcome 'round my place anytime!
:cool:
Peter
gee,i'd hate to spoil your fun peter,u seem determined to work it all out for yourself,i admire that determination.
but,if things get really desperate,before u kick in one of those nice shiny blue panels,consider the PM option,u know where to find me.
Hey, maybe I should just keep my car at Peters, the Crxer and ECUman can come over and have lots of fun :) Peters place can become the "hiding the car from the wife" workshop, and we can have BBQ's, drinks, welding, sandblasting, I can see this being full of win! even better I can just tell my wife I am going over to Peters to do some computer work!
sounds good
The first part sounds OK Chris. However, as I have only just in recent years finally overcome my wife's blessed irritation with my car racing, painting, engine swapping, etc I think making me any party to "wife deception" would not sit well. But sounds great all the same. Contrary to what must be 'popular opinion' I don't really get away with all this stuff without there being a tradeoff, which usually sees me having to do renovations, house painting, and domestic duties.Quote:
Originally Posted by tseesinngwailo
Peter
Hi All,
Well, the wiring was going well thanks to Peter letting me look a a loom and fusebox to work out where the starter signal attached to..
I got everything wired up, and i could start the car using the key, the PGFM relay was working perfectly, and you could hear the pump prime then turn off before actually starting, and the engine stopped correctly when turning the key to off.
At this point, the large black with yello stripe wire from the ignition coil was connected directly to the battery terminal, and I spotted there was the same wire on the original loom, and I thought "Hey, perfect supply" and connected it to the ignition coil.
Then I started the car again, it ran for maybe 2 seconds and then sputtered to death..
Now it wont start, and the PGFM relay doesnt power the fuel pump, I have checked fuses and wiring, all seems like I had it, and i replaced the black/yellow wire back to the battery as it was the only change I had made, but now go, car cranks and nothing
Any ideas what I have broken? is there a chance i killed the ECU?
I was so close dammit
Tseesinngwailo
do u have multimeter?
so main relay not even clicking upon ignition key on?
basically test for power & grounds first to ecu via main relay
I can get the click when the ign is on IG2 (well marked II on the keyswitch)Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
if I pull the fuse out that i have between IG2 and pin 5 on the PGFM relay, it clicks off, but it doesnt sound as loud as i first remember.
I am worried i have killed the ECU somehow, or maybe there is a fuse somewhere i have missed. The fuel pump is definately not coming on, and before my changes, it all was perfect
when u remove pin 5 it only turns off one relay,theres 2 relays inside main relay,so thats why its not as loud.
so is there power on pin1 at all times,with multimeter?
Yes, I am sure it had 12V at all times, but I cant totally be sure, gave up again tonight when it was cold and dark, but on a good note, I gave the fuel pump a direct +12v and the car started and ran OK, so at this point I think maybe the PGMFI relay has an issue, I pulled it apart, but cant see any bad solder joins, so will try and see if i can get it to work with some direct 12V to the pins.
I am wondering if the resistor between the main relay, and the fuel pump relay has blown, its the only reason apart from the ECU that i can see on the diagram that would stop things, or the relay coil has an issue maybe
I might try using my other relay, which is lucky i have a spare, though slightly different
OBD0, not OBD1
Wish me luck, and thanks again for the help, I think it will be a long time before I attempt this again.
Still hoping the relay is the issue and not the ECU
in that case just check wire from ecu to pin8 goes to ground for 2secs when u turn ignition on,make sure it also goes to ground when cranking & motor running..
if it does then ecu is ok.
u will then prob find a dry joint on the fuel pump relay coil terminal on the positive side.
reflow the solder.
was a start(crank) signal wired to pin6 & ecu from the ign switch?
Chris, check this site out for lots of useful information on relays, testing circuits, alarms, etc.
http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com...on7/index.html
Peter